Originally Posted by Keoman

Originally Posted by naf

It's easy to get a wrench on them and remove them or tighten them. It's another issue altogether getting them started on the threads. You'll see when you get there.

I used JB Weld to attach the nuts to the back of the housing so I could get the bolts started. Then held them in place to tighten with an open end. The JB Weld was used sparingly and wouldn't hold up to torque.

Originally Posted by Keoman

Some people have a real hard time with the "easy way" due to having to drill holes. I guess when you sell the car, you can take the door panel off and show the buyer you did it the right way and didnt drill those silly holes!

Originally Posted by Vader

Several observations:

First, I'll agree that all of the Tech Articles posted on the site aren't always 100% accurate, Also, they generally offer only one means of accomplishing a task. There are always alternate methods.

Next, power window motors, whether on ThirdGens, FourthGens, "Honduhs", or anything else for that matter, typically fail for a reason, not just randomly. The two main reasons are it reaching the end of a useful life, or overload. More often than anyone might believe, overload is the cause. That frequently happens to coincide with the age of the vehicle, and is inadvertently attributed to "an old, worn out motor".

The reason for the coincidence is that window channels, guides, and the regulator mechanism lose their lubrication, causing the window to become harder to operate. The windows on older vehicles also frequently require adjustment to prevent binding. Simply replacing a motor is treating the symptom, not the cause. That's usually why a conscientious repair technician will take the extra time to remove the entire assembly, clean and lubricate it with the factory (white lithium) grease, then adjust the stops, guides, and regulator alignment to insure smooth operation for another 15 years. It also insures correct window glass position on closure to properly contact the top, front, and rear seals.

You can replace just the motor, but you'll probably be back a lot sooner than the original motor lasted.

As a side note, most of the window motors I've replaced have failed due to worn brushes and/or an overheated thermal overload that no longer resets (due to the aforementioned overloading). When the commutator is cleaned properly, a new brush holder and overload assembly can be installed easily without removing the motor, without drilling anything, and in less time than replacing the motor as you suggest. If you want to take a shortcut, that might be worth investigating instead:

Power Window Motors.pdf

Originally Posted by Keoman

I just took my doors apart on both sides to replace my window sweeps and gave my windows a nice once over to make sure they were lined up and functioning properly.
I coated the rails in lithium grease along with pretty much every metal on metal rub spot. I then proceeded to find as many adjustment points as I could and see what each one did to the window position. Took about a half hour of thinking about each one working with the other but its really not that complicated. After adjustment, the windows work better than ever, NO squeaking/moaning/scratching noises when you roll them up or down. The doors close better than ever and I have eliminated the wind noise. Win/win/win
Make sure your adjust them well and if you still have noise, it could be a faulty motor. Did the window make that noise right from the get go? Did you test the motor on the bench before you put it in? (always do that)