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As you may know the switch that limits travel and determines the rise and fall of the rear hatch motor is no longer manufactured and is difficult to acquire. This is why I have developed a solution that I come here to share with other owners. It is an economical solution and it works very well. It only requires a switch you can find on ebay for a dollar and some ability to build an L-bracket and some soldering. I'm attaching photos. I will be happy to answer any questions!
Excellent solution to a problem that comes up frequently on this site.
The only thing I'd add is to source a high-quality switch rather than a cheap no-name item. Electronics components suppliers such as Digikey https://www.digikey.com/ sell switches that are tested to last for thousands of cycles without failure.
Excellent solution to a problem that comes up frequently on this site.
The only thing I'd add is to source a high-quality switch rather than a cheap no-name item. Electronics components suppliers such as Digikey https://www.digikey.com/ sell switches that are tested to last for thousands of cycles without failure.
Agree. I'm using a C&K one that is knowed quality grade.
Interesting. Since the assembly differed between the years, and the 92 unit is NLA, any idea how this solution would work on a 92? I have purposely NOT opened the hatch on our B4C since the last time I did, it took a couple of days to get it to pull back down.
I'd like to do the headliner in this car, but the hatch is the best way for it to come out and the new one to go back in. =8-0
i know im years late on this post but could you show how you wired the switch up please? I don't have a problem with the motor coming up, only pulling down
Last edited by 87Birdgang; Mar 16, 2023 at 02:53 PM.
i know im years late on this post but could you show how you wired the switch up please? I don't have a problem with the motor coming up, only pulling down
Wow didn't even notice that lol, nice too meet another O-state native. Greater Cincinnati F-body Association im going have too check you guys out when the weather gets warmer. As far as making sure the T-switch/ Reversing switch being bad, I don't think its completely bad because when I open the hatch the motor will come up. But when i close it won't pull down until i drive around and hit a couple bumps then it will magically pulls down lol. i was thinking maybe the solder had some cracks in it causing it to loss connection.
Wow didn't even notice that lol, nice too meet another O-state native. Greater Cincinnati F-body Association im going have too check you guys out when the weather gets warmer. As far as making sure the T-switch/ Reversing switch being bad, I don't think its completely bad because when I open the hatch the motor will come up. But when i close it won't pull down until i drive around and hit a couple bumps then it will magically pulls down lol. i was thinking maybe the solder had some cracks in it causing it to loss connection.
Will we see you at the Trans Am Nationals in Dayton this year?
sorry I'm so late but yup yup I'll be there this year. trying to chase down a brake light issue now smh..I've changed the switch and bulbs so far with no luck.. Lol i hate electrical problems
Maybe you'll see this maybe not but I was wonder the best way to test the reversing switch to see if it's working or not. I think I might have both an issue the reversing switch and the contact switch. Thanks for the reply if you do see!
