Shifter adjustment
Shifter adjustment
So I bought new shifter cable. I have a 700r4 and I hooked the cable up when everything was in neutral but now it’s not going into park. I’ve looked and tried everything to adjust the cable and such but nothing. I need y’all help. I think it’s something with the shifter assembly. Looks like it’s smacking the metal piece before could go all the way to park position but idk.
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 46
From: Double Bratville
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: LS2
Transmission: 4L65E
Axle/Gears: MW 3.42 12 Bolt
Re: Shifter adjustment
Well, what's the new variable?
You bought a new cable. There you go. Did you get the Shiftworks? - You get what you pay for.
The tab is meant to stop the lever.
There is not much to adjust, unless you moved the bracket on the transmission.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ent-cable.html
You bought a new cable. There you go. Did you get the Shiftworks? - You get what you pay for.
The tab is meant to stop the lever.
There is not much to adjust, unless you moved the bracket on the transmission.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ent-cable.html
Re: Shifter adjustment
Well, what's the new variable?
You bought a new cable. There you go. Did you get the Shiftworks? - You get what you pay for.
The tab is meant to stop the lever.
There is not much to adjust, unless you moved the bracket on the transmission.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ent-cable.html
You bought a new cable. There you go. Did you get the Shiftworks? - You get what you pay for.
The tab is meant to stop the lever.
There is not much to adjust, unless you moved the bracket on the transmission.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ent-cable.html
no I didn’t buy a shiftworks. And yea you right. I ran and grabbed one from oreilly. And no bracket I didn’t move the bracket. It’s literally off by like a half inch if that
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 46
From: Double Bratville
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: LS2
Transmission: 4L65E
Axle/Gears: MW 3.42 12 Bolt
Re: Shifter adjustment
All push-pull cables have some kind of flexible wire inside of an also flexible housing. But of course there are differences in the cable wire and the housing that make all the difference in the world. Yet, you cannot see these differences when you look at a cable.
The first big issue is related to how much (too much) space is left inside the cable housing. The greater the empty space the greater the cable will flex inside the housing. Visualize the wire cable over 2 or 3 feet being pushed forward against the force of the transmission detent. The weaker the wire cable and the greater (sloppier) the space inside the cable housing, the more that wire cable will flex. If bad enough it will cause our customers problem as stated above.
Here is how it works with one of these cheap cables. By the way, if you are buying a repo cable for $30, and the GM cable is $90.......maybe you are getting what you paid for. The shifter handle is pushed forward for Park and unknown to the customer, the wire is flexing inside the housing and losing length. The adjustment is made, and when the shifter handle is pulled back there is not enough cable travel for Low.
So the other approach is used and the pin nut is loosened and the cable is pulled back for Low and the adjustment is made. And the pushing forward again the wire is buckling and the Shifter cannot get into Park.
Oops the cable broke.
Same problem as above, except the cable is broken. Of course the cable doesn’t look broken because when we think “broken” we think “BROKEN”. What usually happens is the little aluminum tube that extends out of the housing and guides the wire and keeps it all straight as it leaves the housing becomes gets disconnected from the bulkhead. Usually this happens at the Transmission end and cannot be seen because of the accordion boot covering this part of the cable. And, it usually happens when pushing the cable up and trying to get it into the pan bracket. On some Repo cables the method used to crimp the bulkhead to hold this tube in place is absurdly wimpy and makes this very easy to do. Once done the cable is junk.
When this happens the cable flexes outside the housing.
The first big issue is related to how much (too much) space is left inside the cable housing. The greater the empty space the greater the cable will flex inside the housing. Visualize the wire cable over 2 or 3 feet being pushed forward against the force of the transmission detent. The weaker the wire cable and the greater (sloppier) the space inside the cable housing, the more that wire cable will flex. If bad enough it will cause our customers problem as stated above.
Here is how it works with one of these cheap cables. By the way, if you are buying a repo cable for $30, and the GM cable is $90.......maybe you are getting what you paid for. The shifter handle is pushed forward for Park and unknown to the customer, the wire is flexing inside the housing and losing length. The adjustment is made, and when the shifter handle is pulled back there is not enough cable travel for Low.
So the other approach is used and the pin nut is loosened and the cable is pulled back for Low and the adjustment is made. And the pushing forward again the wire is buckling and the Shifter cannot get into Park.
Oops the cable broke.
Same problem as above, except the cable is broken. Of course the cable doesn’t look broken because when we think “broken” we think “BROKEN”. What usually happens is the little aluminum tube that extends out of the housing and guides the wire and keeps it all straight as it leaves the housing becomes gets disconnected from the bulkhead. Usually this happens at the Transmission end and cannot be seen because of the accordion boot covering this part of the cable. And, it usually happens when pushing the cable up and trying to get it into the pan bracket. On some Repo cables the method used to crimp the bulkhead to hold this tube in place is absurdly wimpy and makes this very easy to do. Once done the cable is junk.
When this happens the cable flexes outside the housing.
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