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So after searching and having no luck finding the plastic part of the dome light bulb holder I designed one very similar to OEM in cad and 3d printed it, The first one was 1:1 to OEM and would crack (actually exactly where my OEM one did) after heat cycling it several times. So I modified it and tweaked it through several iterations and finally have one that doesn't crack after heat cycling it with a bulb that is way too hot for the housing. I'm using a plastic that is heat resistant so it also will not melt with the overly hot bulb so it should be fine with the proper bulb or a LED.
Unfortunately the cost of material, electricity, etc adds up so If I sell these they will be $45 shipped. I'm not looking to start a business so it's very little profit if any, the screws, filament, electricity, shipping pretty much adds up to that. (you can't do this with standard PLA/ABS you need thermally annealed plastic.)
Thoughts on if anyone would buy it at this price? The final version will be going into my car tomorrow when I get the right size screws in (the ones holding this example together are shorter than my design specification)
Unfortunately the terminals are discontinued by delphi (part number 8911417) or I would sell them pre assembled, you will have to re use your existing terminals which should be ok. I have a few 8911418 (which has the wire crimp in the opposite direction but will work) and there are many GM cars that use these so they are something you can get used pretty easily, but this plastic part is always heat baked and brittle.
Below is the one I've been testing thermally etc, no finish sanding etc (its not a visible part).
How I've been heat cycling it, the entire assembly gets hotter than I can touch.
OEM part on the left, my part on the right, trying to source white screws but I figure again its hidden so probably doesn't matter.
With the proper bulb (the one I'm heat cycling with is much hotter)
Last edited by Aviator857; Dec 20, 2021 at 06:53 PM.
Remove fuse or disconnect battery before starting.
Remove headliner enough to easily access the dome light.
Very carefully remove the old housing from the terminal. I am assuming if you are doing this the old bulb holder housing is in pieces so I chose to break it off the terminals on my remaining part. You may want to pull the clips holding the wires to give you more room.
Insert the existing socket terminal into the housing. Do not cut your existing wires if your terminals don't need replaced. They will be a tight fit so use something hard and flat to push them in. Apply force on the thick area only and not the "wings" that extend out to mount them. As you press it in you should hear a click when the retainer springs out when it's fully seated capturing it in place. Once the clips are in make sure the retaining clips are capturing the terminal against the plastic. When attaching the top plate make sure the wire is captured in the channel, also note the plate has additional support for the terminals, and the plastic part has a notch where the wire crimp is to allow those supports room to reach the terminal. The 6 m3 screws should not extend past the plate. Note only hand tight is required using a Allen wrench, do not use a driver as it will likely strip the threads in the plastic parts. The end screws take the load the middle ones prevent it from warping if too hot of a bulb is used. Reinstall it using the original screws with the studs. Don't over tighten it though. Test and let bulb cool and remove it if your headliner needs space some are real tight to the bulb. Install the headliner and housing. Install bulb and test Install lens
Last edited by Aviator857; Dec 27, 2021 at 12:05 PM.
@Aviator857 - how do I order one? My existing assembly just crumbled.
Originally Posted by Aviator857
So after searching and having no luck finding the plastic part of the dome light bulb holder I designed one very similar to OEM in cad and 3d printed it, The first one was 1:1 to OEM and would crack (actually exactly where my OEM one did) after heat cycling it several times. So I modified it and tweaked it through several iterations and finally have one that doesn't crack after heat cycling it with a bulb that is way too hot for the housing. I'm using a plastic that is heat resistant so it also will not melt with the overly hot bulb so it should be fine with the proper bulb or a LED.
Unfortunately the cost of material, electricity, etc adds up so If I sell these they will be $45 shipped. I'm not looking to start a business so it's very little profit if any, the screws, filament, electricity, shipping pretty much adds up to that. (you can't do this with standard PLA/ABS you need thermally annealed plastic.)
Thoughts on if anyone would buy it at this price? The final version will be going into my car tomorrow when I get the right size screws in (the ones holding this example together are shorter than my design specification)
Unfortunately the terminals are discontinued by delphi (part number 8911417) or I would sell them pre assembled, you will have to re use your existing terminals which should be ok. I have a few 8911418 (which has the wire crimp in the opposite direction but will work) and there are many GM cars that use these so they are something you can get used pretty easily, but this plastic part is always heat baked and brittle.
Below is the one I've been testing thermally etc, no finish sanding etc (its not a visible part).
How I've been heat cycling it, the entire assembly gets hotter than I can touch.
OEM part on the left, my part on the right, trying to source white screws but I figure again its hidden so probably doesn't matter.
With the proper bulb (the one I'm heat cycling with is much hotter)
BTW if you need the terminals and can't find them in a junkyard this harness can be adapted to the thridgen and it includes the terminals. I haven't tried it but the terminals other than having the wire go in the opposite direction do fit (I found a couple of New old stock terminals). Just note you are adapting it its not a direct replacement for the wiring.
It may need a little filing here and there as with 3d printing it isn't as precise as CNC and it's done within tight tolerance so it holds those clips well. But when I do tests every few batches I can put it together without sanding or filing.
I just upgraded my printer and am working out the new cost. This printer can print at 370c so I am testing some higher temp solutions that may remove some post processing requirements but the filament is more expensive. I am still material testing.
