Hey i was just wondering if the Cast Iron GEN III was a good strong engine to upgrade to because over here a new LS1 5.7L is the same price as a new 6.0L GEN III and since it is a cast iron block I wouldent have to muck with my suspension setup.

Also will all the bolt on mods for the GEN III 5.7L work with the GEN III 6.0L?

CHEV 6.0LT GEN 3 - New fuel injected motor.
The new Heavy Duty 6.0LT has a cast iron block with a 6 bolt main cap. The Bore is 101.60mm(4inch) and the stroke is 92mm (3.62inch). The Aluminium Heads and roller Camshaft are the same as the 300kw (400hp) corvette motor. 6.0LT GEN 3 Gross Power is 400HP @ 5600 and Gross Torque is 420LBS @ 4200RPM. The cast block is a lot stronger than the LS1 5.7LT alloy block and is stronger for bigger horsepower. Cost $7200 #502. Computer $350, Wiring Loom $550

CHEV LS1 5.7LT GEN 3 - New fuel injected motor.
The aluminium block LS1 Corvette motor is 400 hp/ 300kw and 405lbs Torque. New LS1 5.7LT 6-bolt main, 3.62" stroke, nodular iron crankshaft, 6.098" rods, light weight pistons, 10.25:1 compression ratio, roller timing chain, roller camshaft, symmetrical port heads with 2.00" int, 1.55" exh. valves, 1.7 ratio roller rocker arms, spring tension on seat 140lbs. Cost $7200 #066. computer $350, wiring loom $550

I want to get some real good numbers out of the engine but it has to be stock when the car gos through its engine swap check to pass emissions tests and all that c##p, Once it has passed I may stroke it to 383 so would the 6.0L be the best option for this?

 

It all depends on what you want out of the car. If I was going to buy a NEW engine I would probably get the alumium one in order to save weight. But if I was looking used I would buy a 6.0 in a heart beat. Why not look for a used 6.0 truck motor? Those things go for way cheap.

 

I've heard of people using the 6.0L truck blocks with LS1 parts on them. Suburbans and Yukon's or Tahoe's have them. It would be MUCH cheaper to go that way than buying a new one.

 

Sadly no one in Australia has second hand ones because no car over here came from the factory with one.
They only have import crate engines, if I wanted second hand id have to import it myself.

 

You could always look for an LS1/LS2 that came in the Monaro

 

How much is an ls2 crate engine?

 

i will have to ring them in my lunch brake today coz they don't have any LS2's listed on there sight but id say about $500-800 more than the 300kw LS1

 

I can get a new 400HP LS2 crate engine without loom and ECU for $6,600 deliverd, about $7,200 With loom and ECU.

 

6L (or LS2) would be the best, IMHO.

 

An iron 6.0l block is a great foundation to start a build. They are a lot stronger than the aluminum LS1 blocks, and every part that goes into an LS1, can go in a 6.0l block. The only "downside" is that they weigh about 90lbs more.

It really comes down to how much power you're lookin' to get out of it. I've seen numerous people pushin' 1000rwhp with iron 6.0l blocks. One way around the weight difference is to get an aluminum LS2 block, and use a girdle for the main caps.

A girdled LS2 is just about as strong as an iron 6.0l block, plus you save about 85 pounds.

Also, if you do go with an LS1 block, make sure it is a post-'01 casting. The early versions ('97-'98) are notorious for oiling problems at higher RPMs.

 

everything will inerchange but the ls1 f-body accesories, oil pan and intake style are needed to put it in an f-body

 

Only because the PCV system was really screwed up on the '98-99 models which can be fixed. The blocks were the same from 98 and up. The 98 models were also made so the bore couldn't be taken as much as they could in '99.

 

The first two engines were from Surburban Imports over in Sydney
HERE: http://www.suburbanimports.com.au/chevparts.htm
And the 400HP LS2 I had priced was from Outlaw Speed Shop here in Adelaide so no shiping with that one and I can get that one with loom and ECU for the same price as the 400HP LS1 without loom and ECU.
But I can't decide on either the c/i (6.0L) or alloy (LS2) block, If im not going too insane an all alloy (LS2) block should be strong enough for my goals.

Im going to make some calls at lunch today and if I can get a C/I (6.0L) block here in Adelaide for the same price or less than the LS2 I may get it but ATM the LS2 is looking good.

If I do go LS2 what do I need to do with the front suspension?

 

LQ9's are strong as hell and are great blocks, basically an iron LS2.

Thing is if you're putting an LSX motor into a 3rd gen anyway you might as well get an aluminum version and save the weight. That is of course we're talking about a serious track-only car here.

And on the suspension you'll need a new K member or at least new motor mounts (BMR K member makes it easier, you can buy it with the right motor mounts)

Also with an aluminum block your front end should be around 1" higher than stock.

 

Two tidbits to think about:
1) If you ever have to have the cylinders bored/honed, an iron block is much easier. The aluminum block will need to be re-sleeved.
2) My one ton truck has a 6.0L iron block and it pulled my heavy truck, trailer, and Camaro all day with no problem, kept up with the flow of traffic up and down the hills.