My car is running so rich it burns my eyes. I datalogged it, but I can't make any sense of it. It runs great and has good power, but floods at idle. I have no clue where to look. There are no codes stored, and the SES light stays off. It idles great and doesn't miss. Here is the datalog. http://www.yourfilehost.com/media.ph...le=1128Car.csv
I appreciate any help that anyone can offer.

 

Hi, Does you car have the stock injectors? If it has aftermarket or worn out ones it will do that. I put some 24lb ones in a v6 and it was real rich at idle but ran awsome when you gave it gas. Also check EGR ports they may be plugged. Also check fuel pressure.
GOOD LUCK.

 

New 30 lb SVO injectors, No EGR(programed out), Fuel pressure is 53-55 unregulated and 45-47 regulated. I have replaced almost all my sensors. I kept the ones that checked out. Most of my details are in my signature. I have a 52mm throttlebody, ram air, no emissions at all, new plugs and wires, opti is two years old, coil is also.

 

What presure were your injectors rated at?

If they were rated at 43.5 (they usualy are) then your fuel pressure is most likely the problem you'll either need to turn it down or adjust the injector constant accordingly.

 

I have no clue. It is a mail order tune by Ion. I will double check my fuel pressure tomorrow to make sure. If so I will have to buy an adjustable regulator.

 

With the vacume line off it should be 42-45 psi with the vacume line on it should be in the 30's depending on your manifold vacume.

 

41 PSI regulated, 49 PSI unregulated.

 

For one, 30# SVO injectors are actualy more like 36# so that may show up different in a tune.

 

I always set my fuel at 45psi disconnected.. Just turned the ignition and looked at the gauge when it primed. Never started the engine, just primed it a few times to make sure that it was a constant value.

I had a nice holley fpr that worked well for 20k miles with my old setup, my new setup is using the aeromotive fpr (don't know how that will work). But for now my recommend would be for the Holley if you get one.

Ion did program for the 30lb svo's right? They flow about 31.6 lb at LT1 stock fuel pressure. From a different post:

Ford/FMS/SVO flowed at 2.7bar (39.15psi)

GM/LT1 flowed at 3.0bar (43.5psi).

Increase in flow running the SVO at 43.5psi:

(43.5 / 39.15)^0.5 = (1.111)^0.5 = 1.054

The SVO flows 5.4% extra when operated at the higher pressure. 30 x 1.054 = 31.62 /HR

Has this just started or has it been this way since the heads and cam? If just since the heads and cam the tune is the trouble. I had a program from Ion for my LE2 setup when I first got it and it was not very good, it never ran properly until a dynotune.

 

It is programmed for the 30s. It started with the new engine. I don't have access to a dyno tune, so what are my options? It runs great and idles perfectly. It is just at idle it runs this rich. Is my fuel pressure right or is it too high? I am grateful for the suggestions, but I still need help.

 

The unregulated pressure looks too high to me.. I would crank it down to 43-45 and then see what happens..

 

Well, I would if I had an adjustable regulator. I am running the original 94 regulator that came with my first engine. Do you think this is what is causing it? Can you get anything from my datalog?

 

tps voltage is slightly high should be .50 - .67 volts.

but I am not experienced enough to tell you if that is worth anything in the trouble department..

I would think being 5.5 psi off the base fuel pressure setting would be a problem though, hope others can chime in I am out of knowledge now.

Sorry.

 

I will slot my TPS and try to lower the readings.

 

I slotted it. I have it down to .65. I will drive it tomorrow and post results.

 

The IAC(idle air control) seems high. Suggestion: Clean the IAC sensor with throttle body cleaner spray.

Other things: throttle body set screw might be adjusted too far and keeping the tb blades open too far. Would kind of make sense with tps value being high.

 

New IAC and freshly cleaned passage. What should it be? Keep them coming guys. I am sure to have missed something.

 

This is just a general guide I use: http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZz/Sc....htm#step%2011

I'm in the 20s for IAC value at idle but my idle is 500-600rpm.

 

I have no way to adjust them, so I will have to focus on what I can fix. I assume the tuner set them that way for his purposes. Do any of the other readings seem off? The only sensor that is not new is the MAP sensor.

 

Check for header gasket exhaust leaks or vaccum leaks maybe. I kind of doubt they would cause this but sometimes its the simple small stuff that causes big unexplainable problems.

 

I thought about that also. I checked those and didn't find any. I recently put a new intake gasket in in case it was leaking. No change. It did give me a chance to make a nice EGR blockoff.

 

If it happens in open loop then you can rule out O2's. O2's work in closed loop.

I graphed out the O2 values in Microsoft excel. The right-side O2 seems that its max values are higher than the max values for the left O2. Especially the high values(near .9 volts)

A bad O2 won't show an entire range of values or a really bad O2 will just show one bad value/measurement all the time.

Here's pics of the graphs:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...tmapImage4.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...tmapImage3.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...tmapImage2.jpg

One axis of the graph is the O2 voltage, the other is the row(line) on the excel spreadsheet.

Maybe its a dirty or bad O2 or maybe something else is causing it. Might be normal too, its not that big of a differnence between the O2 values. If your trouble does happen only in closed loop, buy some O2's, swap them out, if no difference then take them back to the auto store and say you never used them.

If you can get to the plugs really easy, take them out and look them over too while your looking things over.

Try it with the slotted TPS first.

 

The passenger side O2 is new(warrantied) the drivers side is a year old. That could explain the different readings. When it first starts up it doesn't run rich. It must be a closed loop problem. Plugs are about 3 weeks old, but I will pull a couple tomorrow and look at them. Could the TPS have caused this being as high as it was?

 

very well could be the tps. It is kind of high. I'm betting the O2s are fine since they were bought at separate times.

 

I hope the TPS fixes it. I have it a .65, so I will find oout tomorrow. Thanks again for the suggestions.

 

Thanks for chiming in Firebat, injuneer is a good site, I use his stuff also..

Hope this works!

 

Can you get a Datamaster datalog? If so email one to me.

Mdenz3@hotmail.com

 

If I can get Datamaster to work I will log my car. The TPS seemed to help a little. I found an adjustable regulator for forty something dollars at work(employee discount). I am thinking about getting one. It is made by Borg-Warner. Do you think it would be a good part?

 

from what I've heard, its best to not have an adjustable reg. Do you smell fuel at the vac hose that connects to the reg or see fuel pull out if you disconnect it?

 

No, but everyone says my fuel pressure is too high. I know of no other way to decrease it

 

I only use my adjustable to make sure that my fuel pressure is at the stock level.

adjustables are bad if you use them to raise pressure to make up for inadequate fuel supply (small injectors etc.)..in other words use them as a tuning device to make up for deficiencies in pcm/ecm tuning or setup. In my case I needed it to return to stock pressure.

You may not, and it could be something different, but I don't like having my base readings anything but dead on.

heres another question, do you have a friend with a maf that you can switch out with just to make sure that culprit is out of the way also?

 

I thought about that also. I wish I did. I am going to order a regulator from work and see what that does. I can't wait until I get a day off.

 

Unplug the MAF then start the car. It will then run in speed density.

Another thing I thought of is that maybe its just your gauge that is reading it wrong. Try the gauge on another car that you know what its fuel pressure should be and see if its too high.

Did this problem just start all at once or did you change something on your car before this happened? I thought you had the engine running good before.

 

I changed the engine in February and the problems started after that. It runs well and is strong, but is way too rich at idle. I am starting to thing it is a programming problem. The guage was borrowed and I don't have access to it anymore. With the MAS unplugged it runs even richer. It will almost foul plugs.

 

I scanned again after the TPS reset. Still running rich. Perhaps this could give someone a clue. Datamaster doesn't want to work on my computer, so all i have is Freescan. http://www.yourfilehost.com/media.ph...le=3395car.csv

 

Update. I have looked all over my car and I have no clue. I noticed a slight miss the other day that I hadn't heard before. I started checking my ignition with out much luck. The plug that goes into the opti is stuck and I am assuming corroded. I have a new opti in the box and I am probably going to install it. I need to buy a new opti harness before I do it. The opti is only two years old, but I found some corrosion on two of the sockets the wires attach to.

 

I put an adjustable regulator on my car. The pressure is now 43.5 with the line off. It is not running as rich anymore. I am not throwing any codes, but I think my opti might have some problems. I am going to try to change it next week.

 

Summit has the opti harness.. As an aside my new combo was getting too much fuel at idle.. it turned out to be my brand new aeromotive fpr was letting fuel go out the vaccuum port and into the engine.. I just put a stock one back on and pressure and idle are ok.. it was flooding it so much it would not start.. if I did get it started though it would run fine at higher rpms..

It could of been that your reg was shot and allowing some fuel down the vaccuum line, though not as extreme as mine was..

 

I ordered my harness from Caspers. http://www.casperselectronics.com/mm...Category_Code= I am changing it Tuesday. My regulator had a lot of gunk in it. I hope the opti helps. The plug will not pull out of the opti. I am sure it is corroded. I think this is my miss I have been hunting.

 

Yep it probably is..

Caspers is the one I was thinking of from summit just couldn't remember the brand. Let us know how it works out!

 

No problem. I am trying to get my car running to where it suits me(not likely that will ever happen), and runs like it should. My car sat for two weeks before I put the regulator on. It runs like crap now. I assume there is some condensation in the opti. I am going to meticulously check everything Tuesday.

 

I changed my opti today. The connector that goes into the opti was a bright green(corroded) and the terminals in the cap were as well. I am pretty sure this is my miss. I am waiting for my new opti harness to come in so I can drive it. I don't see how it was running with the old distributor. I am hoping it will have a little more spark now and the rich condition will be solved.

 

No more rich condition. I guess it wasn't getting a good spark to the cylinder. It runs great now. The opti I replaced was less than two years old.

 

Did you replace the entire unit or just the cap/rotor? I had a problem with my opti unit and reused the old cap/rotor. Solved my no run problem.

 

I replaced the whole thing. The plug corroded the terminals on the sensor in the opti. Now I have to replace my new fuel pressure regulator. I can't win some days.

 

why does the regulator have to be replaced now? Isn't it brand new?

Anyway glad to hear things are working out.

 

Like always problems keep coming. I got a bad regulator. It kept spiking my pressure and then dropping it. I guess something in it was sticking. I am running the factory one for now. I am currently chasing a new demon. It starts fine and idles fine until it is warm. Then it goes crazy when I go to stop. It idles erratically and almost dies. It started doing this before the opti swap. It is a real pain to drive, not to mention embarrassing. Any clues?