If I am getting vats deleted on the pcm fot an lt1 can I get rid of the vats box or does it need to be wired up as well?

Thanks,
Eric B.

 

In my experience, you need to leave the vats in the dash together. The vats box will still disable the starter enable relay.......

I swapped my column when I did the lt1 swap, to one without vats. I had it deleted from the PCM, so I was perplexed when it wouldn't start.

After a few posts and lots of reading, I swapped the column back into it and it fired right up.....

thats just my experience though

good luck with your swap

-jason

 

I left the original column and vats in. I was talking about the lt1 vats box or can it be bypassed?

Thanks,
Eric B.

 

look at this diagram: http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg

Now, its been a while since I've touched the wiring in my swap but this should work.

Have Vats programmed out and remove a vats delete box if you have one. Go a couple steps further and remove the rest of the Vats system: Completely remove the Theft Deterent Module. Bypass and remove the Theft Deterent Relay by connecting wires C1 and A2 together and then connect C2 to ground.

 

Well if you meant the lt1 vats box, then no, you don't need it.

Unless you are planning on swapping the dash and interior wiring.... then I'm not so sure.

-jason

 

C1, A2, and C2? what connector are these on?
Thanks
Eric B.

 

If you are not altering the interior wiring in anyway, then you don't need to do what Firebat posted.

IF the vats is deleted in the PCM, then you do not need the lt1 vats module.

-jason

 

Do I need to tie the fuel enable wire to gnd? The one that goes to the vats module. Think dark blue or will the pcm take care of this

 

I didn't mess with it.....

-jason

 

subscribed

 

The starter kill is easy to defeat even if VATS is still enabled

Lazy people way:
Remove relay
Jumper wire from pin A to pin E
Colors vary from year to year, essentially you connect the two heavy wires together

You can cut the relay out completely if you wish, but you'd need a diagram for your specific year to help. Notice the difference in the shbox digram and the austin diagram

Better diagram
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...m_pass-key.jpg

 

I removed all the passkey stuff from my 92 pretty easily. When I got to the starter control relay I just cut, spliced, soldered and heat-shrink wrapped the large yellow and large green wires. The yellow came from the column, the green fed the start system until it eventually turned to a purple wire that runs to the starter. Peice 'o cake!!