Ok so I just dropped in the LT1, I have the 3rd gen oil sender from a 92. This seems like really low oil pressure to me. I deleted that thing that runs coolant around the oil filter assembly then just reattached a new filter. Im starting to wonder maybe this has something to do with it? But then again there isnt much way that could effect the pressure.

Also the 3rd gen sender has 3 wires. Orange, Tan, and Gray, I know the tan goes to the gauge, but do you need that power wire hooked up as well? Im pretty sure that just has to do with the oil pressure priming the fuel pump circuit or something.

It sounds fine, no ticking or knocking. But when I look inside the valve cover it doesnt look like there is much oil getting to the top. When I open the throttle plate a little bit the oil pressure doesnt move at all, just stays right around 15-20 psi. What would you do in my position? Am I just over paranoid?

 

Whenever an engine is out its considered common practice to install a new oil pump for good measure

Of the 3 sender wires, only the tan wire is required to run the gauge. The other two are for the fuel pump relay bypass

Slap a cheap mechanical gauge on there if you suspect the sender is bad. If it isnt, prepare to pull the engine again and do the pump. Remember, 10psi per 1,000RPMs is considered safe. Anything below that is risking major failure

 

I know the sender is good, I worked great on the 305 that I got it off (my orig. engine with only 90k miles on it. Well I guess your right, how difficult is this process? Ill start doin some reading right now.

 

Get a mech gauge (<$20), unscrew the electric sender, screw in the mech sender. Crank and observe

 

Well Im pretty sure the sender is accurate, I think Im gonna go ahead and buy a new pump. Install that and if Im getting the same pressure Im just gonna pick up another LT1. Dropping the engine in is the easy part. I have all the wiring done and it starts and runs every time.

 

Ok, so I just went and got myself a high volume pump. Im going to try and to this with the engine in the car. Just undo the engine mouints hoist up as muchg as possable and throw some stands under it. Is this possable to do? Also is there suppost to be a gasket that goes between the pump and where it mounts?

 

you might be wasting a lot of money on a guess....because you really dont know what the problem is....i would suggest get a maechanical guess and hook it up, time to install, probably 30 minutes, money spent 20 -30 dollars.....your way new oil pump install probably 2-3 hours, 100-200 dollars spent (depending on the type of pump), oil drain 20 mintues, 30 dollars plus filter, cherry picker, harobour freight 125.00....then again these are just rough estimates...but you get the idea...your realy goin be pissed if its just a oil pressure sender..good luck

 

New pump is around $30, nothing majorly expensive

The biggest hurdle is getting up in there because the K-member is in the way. Lift the engine as high as possible or support it and drop the K-member

 

POCKET YOUR THE MAN. I went and got a mechanical gauge. 60psi on a cold start up it warms up and comes down too around 40. Im just working on bleeding the cooling system right now. Thanks again, for some reason I dont like when other people are right so I try and work around their advice.. But you were definatly right! Its definatly a problem Im working on.

 

When looking for answers on the internet, finding multiple sources is a given

Glad it was something simple. I didnt do the pump with my swap and it nearly cost me the engine. Live and learn with a fresh pump, all is well

 

Yeah so I drove it around for the first time today. I can tell this thing wants to move. Im still breaking in the clutch so I havnt even given it more then an 1/8th throttle. But I cant complain about a thing all my work came through. Im running a clutch from B and M it feels nice. Rated for 350hp so it should be good. thanks for all the help!