quickkris2006

iTrader: (2)

Running an exhaust isn't hard it just takes time. If u get all the pieces u need and cut and fit them together the way u want it all u have to do is have it welded.. the shops prices are high because they make money on the metal piping and the welding.. u can simply clamp the pipes together for fitment or u can get the slide on connectors and don't even need to have it welded.. what crossmember are u going with cuz in know hawks has a crossmember that will fit the long tubes

Jairo

keep us updated. im thinking of doing my own lt1 swap

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

To be honest, i just havent thought that far. i wasnt sure if you could reuse the stock crossmember on a T56? i would like to do longtubes if the downpipe isnt a big issue, but that just requires some more thought.

And the FedEx guy made my day and brought my fuel lines, and they look gorgous! And since there still seems to be confusion about fuel lines, even after all of the different threads about them, ill post as many pics as possible for anyone else going this route later in the future.

Jario- good luck with your up-coming swap, i hope to see more people go the LTx route aswell!

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Yesterday I got started on my fuel lines, deciding I'm keeping my stock lines. So I cleaned them up really good, and also removed the evap line and I'm capping it off at the sender. I found out from NAPA that I have the wrong flaring kit, so instead of buying a new kit for 60$ that ill only use once, I'm going to run buy a local shop and apparently this guy has a hydraulic flaring tool and he can flare them up for me quick. So that's nice! Anyway I snapped a pic of my steel lines. Not pictured is the 3/8 feed line from tank to fuel filter, already installed.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

New Purechoice lines
REALLY glad I decided to call them, answered all of my questions and I highly recommend them!

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

You cant use the stock crossmember on the T56. the T56 mount sits farther back. You can mod it, but I got a used Spohn T56 conversion tranny mount and torque arm. The hawks mount would be good if you used long tubes and didnt want to run a crossmember mounted torque arm.

As far as exhaust, I ordered Dyno Don 1 3/4" shorty headers and Y pipe. They are made for this conversion and have the correct raised D ports for LT1 motors. I dont have to worry about fitment issues or fabbing exhaust. I am not sure what your intended power levels are, but I am sure 400rwhp would easily be obtainable with these.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Wow that sounds like a perfect setup. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for that setup?

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Sent you a PM.

They are expensive, but they are hand made, mandrel bent, and fit angle plug heads. I got mine with o2 sensor bungs in both sides, no emmisions stuff, ceramic coated, 2.5" outlets, 3" outlet on the Y pipe, and fit perfect from the pics I have seen. I have not read one bad thing about them. Guys say they are hitting 550hp plus with them. Check out the pics in this link to see what you would be getting.

Oh and no ground clearance issues with them either.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...headers-2.html

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Yeah I hear that Dyno Don's are some nice headers.

Klortho

If you want to save some money and still get some quality headers, alot of us are running the Hedman shorties with the y-pipe that is made for the 3rd gen cars. They have shorties for angle plugs and d-ports, plus a matching y-pipe that bolt up in the factory locations. All you will need to do is add the O2 bungs in the headers and you're set. I don't actually remember the part number for them but if you do a search in this forum, you should find them.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

yeah I'm definatly looking to budget on headers, since the getting the harnesses mated is a nice chunk of change. So ill defiantly look into that setup.

Thanks Klortho!

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

got the lines flared and mated with my braided lines, really glad i went this route!


Next is my harness, seeing how Jon is really busy with them it might take a few weeks. So in the mean time im going to try and find someone parting out a 4th gen and finish gathering parts. hopefully a local scrap yard has one!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Nice. THAT's ONE OF THE LAST THINGS I'm gonna do......Im way far away from that step.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

i wish this was my last step, sadly i too have a long way to go

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Quick question about 4th gen raiator fitment, on the passenger side theres 2 things i want to trim so that it sits lower. is it ok to trim these?

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

i trimmed the "dong" looking thing on the bottom... sits fine now on mine. However im running into an issue.

i have the LT1 radiator holder (the top support) but the radiator sits too low for it to work. Ive see people do this swap and made them work, wondering how its done.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I'm not sure how it is done exactly. I know the LT1 radiator shroud is cut across the front and then bolted down. I haven't tried putting the lt1 radiator into my car yet. See if Kthxbai will help you with this. He recently did this swap.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...1-t56-etc.html

i knew there was a post about it, Firebat explains pretty well how do modify/fit the radiator into place.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

i just figured it out... i looked at a picture by klortho... plus i forgot to put on the rubber holders at the bottom. I cut the holder across then removed that long ledge on the back of it, sanded it down and drilled the bolt holes, perfect now

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Can you post the link here to Klortho's pic you mentioned?

Ya know I was gonna ask if you put those rubber spacers in but assumed you did....Plus looking at it it looks like the fan housing has tabs on top that are what actually kinda hook onto the top shroud that bolts down, therefore, holding the entire radiator/fan assembly down snugly.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

ill go outside and take a pic of my own, since its just like Klortho's BRB

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Today i drilled a hole for the draic ****, and cut off the side tabs to gain more clearance. but my fan is still hitting my steering gear. Im sure after messing with it alittle more ill gain some more clearance. But after that all i have to do is get a radiator shroud, plug the trans cooler line threads and get a thermostat, and im ready to get hoses.

Shipping my harness soon(sorry for the delay jon), then only a few minor things and i can hopefully fire her up

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Did you use the stock radiator rubber supports on the bottom...the ones that held your old radiator in there? The fan is hitting the steering gearbox?

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

here is picture.. i used the 3rdgen rubber bottom supports and the 4thgen top rubber supports.. nope the 4thgen LT1 fans dont hit, barely, but dont hit here is a top picture








understand that its a rough cut on the LT1 holder.. i'll make it nice and straight later. The bolts are in where the factory holes are.

You also need to flip over the holder, and grind off the lip thats on the underside of it, it prohibits the holder from sitting down firmly on the metal. I used a die grinder to make it flat.

i can get a better picture of the fans and the steering box tomorrow.

sorry this pics are from my iTouch

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

oh cool i didnt know the stock rubber supports would work. and yeah mine is just BARLEY hitting my steering box, im sure once rubber supports are in then it will clear.

SomeGuy25thZ

Do you have the PN for which lines you ordered from there website? Was it the lt1 fuel line kit 95 camaro/ firebird PN 6040?

I'll need this setup for an lt1 swap as well.

Thanks

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

In my swap thread "My first ever V8 swap LT1/T56" there is a post with all purechoice part numbers a page before the last I believe. My parts from purechoice use the quik connects for the engine side and flare nuts to connect to the steel lines on the tank side. I am cutting the lines back so the fuel lines go right to the back of the engine. I got their flaring tool also. All part numbers are listed in my thread

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

you guys there is a cheaper way to make fuel lines...

you can use Dorman 800-120 and Dorman 80-121, these 2 are the push lock/ quick connect that go on the LT1 fuel rail. then take you TPI flex hoses, have a hose shop remove the ends off the bottom that attach to the hard lines on the car and make the new hoses... mine cost me $40 at EVCO house of hose.

the dorman fittings are only $6 at Checker/O'Rielly's or $7 from summit.

SomeGuy25thZ

Thanks found it!

KillJOY - i will also look into your method. I might not have the TPI flex lines though... have to check the roller i bought. i remember seeing the hard lines but not the existing flex lines.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

That works but I like the idea of putting new flex lines in there, especially quality ones from Purechoice. Thanks for your suggestion though!

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

i know theres cheaper ways to do fuel lines, but i needed a way to make my engine "pop". and ive always loved the way braided lines look, and it was just a personal prefrence of mine.

plus they look sweet

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

And that, too I like the braided line look, too. Hey cprmn14, I am selling my exhaust for very cheap, if you'd be interested. I'll post a link to my for sale thread here if you like.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Looks good. OK to clarify...that tube coming out the bottom of the radiator is the drain, and you had to drill a hole for it? I don't remember seeing a "petcock" near that tube on my 4th gen radiator to drain the thing.

Do you have the whole fan/radiator assembly in there without rubbing/clearance issues now?

I'm going to use a billet 4th gen top hold down shroud whatever it's called to hold my radiator in. I'll just have to cut it and drill the holes for the 3rd gen locations. That'll "pop" pretty nicely.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Cool...glad you found it. I like this setup best, for some reason.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

its a 1" nipple on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. If i have it correct, the release valve above it allows it to drain out the peacock.

Yes i have a 4th gen radiator/dual fan combo. just closed a deal today about a new shroud, fuse block, and power steering resevoir. So hopefully have the cooling system hooked up this week.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

nothing much to report, mostly waiting onparts to come in the mail. But I did finally block off my oil cooler outlet in my water pump. took a few trips to NAPA to figure it out, but it took a 3/4" knock sensor and a hammer, good as new

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

So I've been working on the radiator a bit, and it seemed like it was sitting to low so I mocked it up another half inch. Now the lower outlet is almost hitting my steering gear. It clears but I don't think I can get a hose on it. Maybe I just need to lower it. What is this even for?

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I ran into that problem when I did my lt1 swap.. I just capped it with a rubber cap and a hose clamp. It is for the oil cooler.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

awesome! i thought that was for my oil cooler.

thanks man

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I'm bypassing the stock setup of the steam tube going to the TB and am threading a fitting onto the T-Stat housing on the water pump then connecting the line to that

You gotta connect it somewhere in the cooling system, so the heads release that heat pressure properly. I figured connecting it to the cooling system where the heat will go into the hot side of the radiator first is a good idea, plus this could reduce intake air temperatures at least a little bit, just like the TB bypass done on TPI cars.

Looks like I'll also be cutting down that lower nipple on the radiator, before I cap it off, so it won't rub against anything. I'm waiting to get my metal shroud from Hawks, before I start fitting the radiator into my car.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

I don't know about capping off the evap/vent line. It vents excess pressure along with fumes to the valve for the charcoal canister, then to the canister and then that vents to the atmosphere or even better - back into the intake manifold so very slim chance of smelling gas. Plus, I think it might improve mileage but I don't know if its anything noticeable. Make sure you get a vented gas cap and you shouldn't have excess pressure building up in the tank that would lead to fuel pump problems.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

im not capping off the vent line, just replacing it with a breather of some type. but i thought you were supposed to cap off the line going to the charcoal canister, are you suggesting i leave it open, or just put on another breather valve?

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

The way I understand it is that the evap line is for venting fumes/pressure out and the white thing by the tank is for venting air in. I replaced the white valve thing with a breather in the past and could not stand driving the car with the windows down in traffic because the gas would bother me. Got so bad that the fumes gave me a sore throat. So, had to keep the white valve installed.

I'm saying keep the white valve by the tank, cap the line going to the charcoal canister since it won't be used, and replace the gas cap with one from the local auto store that is known to be a vented gas cap. The un-vented type of gas cap is probably on there right now since the car had a charcoal canister. The vented type of gas cap has a valve in it that opens when pressure meets a certain point.

More information on where to buy vented gas here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ented-gas.html

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

ok sounds good, thanks again firebat.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Just a little bit of an update, got my radiator shroud modified and bolted down. Also got the hole cut for my fourth gen washer bottle. Just trying to tie up a few loose ends before my harness is done.


Starting to look complete

newZman

Nice car, I will be interested to see how this all turns out. Looks great so far.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

coming along nicely. Good job bro.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Thanks a lot guys! Sorry the pics are so dark, I take them on my blackberry. Kinda sucks

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

got my throttle cable from autozone yesterday(braided, looks sweeet). After I install that then im just waiting for Pocket to get my harness all finished up, and ill be back to work on it!! After a few minor details(headers, few sensors, ac delete box, etc) then we should have a first fire


looks nice!

newZman

Any updates? I am curious to see what headers you end up going with.