cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

No one told me that re-tapped threads or a helicoil wouldnt work that that was just my thoughts. I still want to use the new threads to press the balancer on with a threaded rod, so i just wanted to make sure they were stong enough to handle that plus torque.

Actually I heard nothing but good things about helicoils, ive just never used them and when i looked them up, they just look like a spring from a desk pen so i was sceptical. But I dont feel like paing 80$ for a timesert compared to the 35$ for a helicoil. If I did just re-tap the hole would you suggest 1/2"x20 or a more corse thread like 1/2"x14?

Wheres the bleeder at on the slave?

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

apparently bleeding the slave only requires removing the slave and pointing the piston of the slave down so the line is up, and pump the air bubbles out. Sounds simple enough

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

I'd suggest using fine thread, just like the original, so long as you go slowly and clean out the threads often as you go and use some cutting fluid, you should get a nice end result.

Apparently I must have had my T5 stuff mixed in on the bleeder, as I thought I'd bled at least one of my T56's that way, who knows I may have had some other slave cylinder hooked up

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Took all day today to work on the car, got alot done! I re-tapped the crank hub bolt hole to 1/2x20 with a thread tap. Tap threaded fine but I didnt want to risk stripping them again so instead of using a threaded rod I followed a members advice and put the balancer in the oven.. Seemed alittle unorthadox but it worked like a charm! put it in on 400 degrees for 10 minutes. Just slowly tightened it down with the 3 mounting bolts and it slid right into place. Replaced the crank hub bolt ad torqued it into place. Felt good to finally get that out of the way.

When bleeding my slave the other day I noticed it was super stiff, so I took it out and found a bunch of metal shavings in the slave housing... so I was feeling ambitous today so I took the trans back out. hopefully for the last time, that T56 is heavy. Theres oil in the bell housing too so I think the rear main seal is leaking too, so it needed to come out anyway. When I took out the trans, I noticed some deep groves in the back of the clutch from the clutch fork dragging. Not sure yet whats up with that.

Realized I havent posted pics in awhile so heres a few random ones.

Taping out the balancer, had to take the radiator and sway bar for clearance


Jacked up and ready to take out the trans..again


And these are the shavings from the clutch, right next to my oil leak lol.


Ill post pics of the clutch later on or in the AM, time to go back out the the garage.
Cheers!

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Grooves in the clutch plate are from the T stud backing out on the clutch fork, you need to loctite it in place, i'd also check the condition of those threads as well.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Are you talking about the clutch fork threads? Yeah ill have to check those out tomorrow. They dont look too deep so hopefully its ok to re-use.

When I unbolted the clutch the i think it was still engaged, the teeth were still in twards the flywheel and loosened up as I unbolted it. Is that normal?

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Yes the hole in the front transmission plate that the clutch fork T stud pivot bolts to, when the bolt loosens up the fork moves towards the pressure plate, then when you push the pedal the clearance between the fork and the plate is reduced and contact is made.


Yes the fingers on your clutch should be IN towards the engine and then come outward when you unbolt it.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

So ive been working on getting the slave bled and installed, got the clutch fork slid over the throw out bearing but the pedal is super stiff. Feels almost like a brake pedal. It has about one inch or so of travel then stiff as a rock. I've been doing some reading and a lot of people have made their slave adjustable or way the angle is alittle off. Bit the car was originally a manual so the pivot angle should be good. Anyone else had this happen? Seems like something's off inside the bellhousing or something. Shouldn't be any air in it, I bled it for Almost fifteen min until no bubbles came out

Heres a link talking about the adj. clutch master
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...i-use-4th.html

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

I went to inspect my slave today and found out my clutch fork/ throw out bearing are stuck disengaged.. Ive tried giving the fork alittle leverage to break free but no dice. Ive done a few searches and I havent found anything similar?

Anyone else have this happen? i really dont want to drop the trans for a third time..

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Ok so I ended up replacing the slave master, got a cheap replacement from rockauto. Found there was a small leak in the original master and i could hear an air pocket in it that I couldnt seem to get out. So I put the new one in and gave it a good bench bleeding, and installed it. Pedal felt great! Not to hard, not to soft. The pedal is just alittle high, need to make the master adjustable but im not worried about that at the moment.

So everything seemed good and I was just messing with the pedal, when POP.. Pedal got hard again.. this time I could still feel the clutch engaging and disengaging. So I re-bled the slave, no dice. So I took it out and looked at the fork, and the pressure from the TOB actually pulled the bolt out of the thread 1/4". Sooo out comes the trans for a 3rd time to re-tap the thread on the T-bolt. Yayyy.

After that I decided to do something easy for once... So I started looking at how to mount my PCM behind the dash. Ive heard of people wrapping them in towels and stuffing it up there but i thought of a new way I havent heard of yet. I actually took the old PCM mount, flipped it, cut a big chunk of it off, and it turned out like this.



I cut a groove in the middle for the lip of the PCM to rest on, and it looks like its gunna work good.



All mounted in.



Looks much better!




Ill be dropping the trans either tomorrow, or later next week. Hopefully after that I can bleed the brakes and actually drive it. Its been almost 3 and a half years!!

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Went to NAPA today and picked up some flywheel bolts. I didnt save the old ones so I just picked up some grade 8 bolts from the hardware store. Someone said it was a bad idea to run hardware store bolts for the FW. So after a quick search I found out its very bad. lol

Only paid $8 for the set, much better than dropping that trans again.. Guess I never really thought about it being a bad idea, but the flywheel bolts are grade 10.5, and made for the vibrations. So incase anyone is thinking about doing the same thing, now they know.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Finished buttoning up the trans...again. Hopefully it wont have to come out until I decide to re-build it. Today after alittle bit of trial and error I actually got CLUTCH PRESSURE! Feels perfect(pedal sits higher than the gas pedal but ill deal with it for now. Felt confident enough in it to actually put trans fluid in. Tied up a bunch of little things on the car that needed done. Just need a new prop valve(stripped the threads in my old one), and I can take it on a test drive!!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Looks like it's coming together nicely!

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man, yeah it seems like things are finally starting to come together. Hopefully I dont find any surprises on the test drive.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't that be nice! How soon do you think it will be before you have it on the road?

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Today out of the blue it was almost 60 degrees today(average has been about 15), So I decided to try and work out a few kinks that I had with the first start up. I dont have an o2 bung in the passenger side header so I zipped ties the o2 into place for now since I dont have my y-pipe made yet, it was super rich out of that header on the first start up.

After adding all the fluids I fired it up and let it warm up a bit, and found a few minor problems.

- I need a new PS resevoir cap, it keeps oozing out when I start the car.

- Neither fan turned on. I let it warm up to about 230 before shutting it down. I had them tuned to come on at 185 and 200. Probably just a sensor or relay, havent looked into it much yet.

- Has a mis-fire, might be because its strait out of the shorties right now. Whole ign. system is brand new so I dont think its related to that, but definatly a posibility.

- Fuel pressure seemed a little low. During idle I was pushing just under 40 lbs. Before I think it was about 44 lbs give or take.

Like I said just minor stuff. Im gunna take it to the exhaust shop and then figure out my little kinks. But on a side note, I was able to move the car forward and reverse under its own power

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Not much to report, but I have been working on the car quite a bit lately. I really wanted to get my ebrake working again, so I found some used calipers with the ebrake tab and spring im missing and a disk prop valve from a 91 Formula. My ebrake cables were about 3" too long so I had to improvise alittle bit.



I had to clip off the cable end and pcked up a few throttle body cable claps and put 2 on each cable, should hold just fine. Had to drop the driveshaft to gain good access to it.

Also figured while I was at it i would do alittle painting. Bought a small can of Rustoleum brush paint at Ace. Looks good after a few thick coats.


Before:


After:


Didnt take the time to tape off around the rotor like I should have so I got a few spots to lightly sand, but it looks so much better than before. Still need to make my way to the exhaust shop to get my y-pipe fabbed uo, since I cant seem to find one that bolts to my Edlebrock TES shorties, which is weird. But hopefully have the exhuast done before March.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Well I actually managed to take it for a test drive, with spring weather soon approaching I decided to get my car out of my parents garage and over to my appartment on Saturday. I have to say, ive pictured myself on the first test drive many times in my head and none of them went anything like this. I attempted to go through the yard and got stuck right away(Ill post a picture later, looks like the ****** mobile).

But anyway, theres a few tweeks I still have to do. Theres a bad vacuum leak somewhere I can hear it hissing by my air filter, so the idle is at 2500 constantly. Plus my throttle cable is about 1/4" too short, so that makes the idle go up to almost 3K. Brakes need more work, coolant system needs bled, headers need retorqued. Just little things. But one thing is for sure, it ran like crap on the 1 mile drive to my house. It shook so bad it almost felt like my driveshaft is out of balance or something.

Denface

I just bought a 91 rs....the guy told me he put a used motor in it but i am not sure what kind it is how can i tell?? P.S i am new to this but i have named my car Grey Thunder and plan on making it badass.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Check the number on the block, is it carb or fuel injected?

Denface

I have no idea when i take off the air filter there is what looks like a carb but it has wires or cables in it...also it came with a weird exhaust that is red across the back before it turns out to the back of the car it kinda makes it sound cool tho.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Wow this thread has sat for awhile, sorry about that but as most of you know sometimes life gets in the way. But I have been working on it on the weekends or whenever I get extra time. But im having a problem with the cooling system I cant figure out. It steadily rises to 220, then just keeps climbing.I pressure tested the system and held 19lbs for 3 min without dropping a bit, Ive burped the system at least a dozen times. Lower rad hose is hot so the thermostat is opening I believe, but it is cooler than the upper so im wondering if the Autozone WP is crap. But I have driven it a few times. Shifts good and throttle responce feels ok. But it has bad hesitation and sometimes backfires under light load at idle. I tested the fuel pressure today, and im getting 40ibs at prime, holds at 40(sometimes it will randomly loose FP and drop to 0 at prime). Holds at about 35-37lbs at idle, and when I give it throttle it drops to 32-34 ibs. I think all those numbers seem alittle below spec but maybe not.

Im really getting the itch now that ive driven it around, so hopefully work slows down alittle so I can get some weekends to work on it. Even though its not much of an update I thought id keep you guys in the loop. And if you guys have a few suggestions on my issues that would be awesome.

Ill post some pics when I find my camera, I know this thread has very few. lol

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

I just finished up my compression test and it reads as follow:

8-200 7-195

6-200 5-140

4-208 3-190

2-205 1-200


Everything looked fine until I tested cylinder 5, but when I was testing #5 I had to remove the headers, and while cranking to build cylinder pressure I noticed a mist coming from cyl #1... It smelt like fuel, does that mean the exhaust valve is not seated or bad push rod adjustment? When I did my head gasket a few years back I think I stripped the threads out of a few head bolts or the block. So I think thats where the bad compression is coming from. Im going to give it a leak down test in the near future, but I wanted your guys opinion on the fuel from cyl #1 exhaust valve while testing cyl #5?..

I appreciate any help, thanks guys

jaybdaboat

Idk much. But I have a 16 psi cap on my radiator it's only a few weeks old. The last one was stock with the same cap. Make sure you have an lt1 thermostat there are different found out the hard way. And make sure the block has fluid in it to pump a reason mine kept overheating. Now it's at 170 all day long and I don't have my fans hooked up yet the wire fried.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Pretty sure its the right thermostat. I ordered it from summit so I hope they got it right. Ill double check thanks for chiming in buddy.

Got a friend thats going to let me borrow a leak-down tester so I can narrow the problem down. Ill keep you posted.

jaybdaboat

No problem, is at least running?

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Yeah its running, I drove it about a mile a few weeks ago. It just feels like its lacking alot of power, but not mis-firing. And once it hits 220 temp, it doesnt stop. Just keeps rising.

Other than that everthing seems pretty good. Almost everything in the cooling system is new, and the system is bled(about a dozen times). And after alittle reading they both seemed to be related to possible head gasket problems. Even though I replaced the head gasket, when I did I had a cheap torque wrench and I dont think they were accurately torqued. Plus I might have stripped a few head bolt/block also..

And with the low compression number in cylinder 5, and both adjacent cylinders are 10% lower than the rest. Even though that is acceptable, I think its related to the loss in #5. I wont know more until I perform a leak-down test.

Drifter Joe

Wow, that is a beautiful Camaro. I love the interior and exterior. Good job!! I plan to start the LT1 swap this fall