He guys, I am currently talking to a guy that wants to trade me a complete 2003 LQ4 with no harness of ecu for my LT1 style t56 trans. The engine only has 60k miles on it. I have a few questions that im currently trying to search for but hope you guys can help me out.

Will a ls1 T56 bolt up to this LQ4?

Will I have to change accesorys?

I want L92 heads and a LS3 intake. What do I do about the throttle cable?

I just want to run a decent cam along with these heads. Do I need to change injectors too?

My friend who has already done a lsx swap on a ss impala wants me to find a low mile LY6. Would I be better off just selling my tranny and going this route?

If I get a LY6 do I still have to change accesories since the intake and heads are better?

Sorry for the all the question,

Dustin

 

The later 2000 and up 6.0 will bolt and use a LS1 T56, you will have to use a different set of accessories, stock LS1 injectors, intake and rails are cheap and will support a decent cam, as fr the LY6, everything depends on what you are trying to do, i am assuming EFI?

 

Yes, efi for sure and want it to drive nice but still run bottom 12s

 

Will stock ls1 intake bolt onto the lq4 heads and line up correctly?

 

AHh found my own anwser, yes it fits.

Could I use a LS1 harness on this motor since I will be using LS1 accerories and intake,tb?

 

You can use an LS1 harness. The primary difference is the crank sensor, which will be correct for that year LQ4.

BTW, I used 2003 LQ4 heads (317's) on one of my LS1's, with LS6 intake (LS1 also fits). It ran mid-12's first time out with stock 2000 LS1 cam, lousy DA and a head wind.

The LQ4 is getting L92 heads with an L76 intake - I haven't figured out the throttle cable mount yet, although I know I'm going to use a cable TB, not DBW.

 

Uh, forgot that LQ4 and LS1 use a different injector connector. So, you need to either match harness and injector, or swap out the connectors. If you use an LS1 harness and LS1 injectors, no problem.

 

I plan on using the ls1 harness for the swap. Will a set of stock injectors support a decent cam?

 

Decent cam should receive larger ingectors in the neighborhood of SVO 30lb red tops are
the average injector chosen. Of course you will need a tune for them but you
require a tune anyway.

 

Would this be be the same red tops I have out of my lt1?

 

A few places sell injector adapters so you can run either type of injector with the LS1 harness. My vote goes for the LS3 top end. You can buy complete intakes for $300 (minus the TB) which come with 42lb injectors and fuel rails. Scoggin Dickey sells LS3 heads complete for $350 a head. If you go the L92/LS3 route, make sure you read up on cam selection. These heads flow so much that they can be lazy with the wrong cam down low.

However, a cam only LQ4 will still be a beast.

Five7 - Scoggin Dickey sells a bracket for TB and Cruise for L76 and LS3 intakes. It slips right behind the TB and allows you to use a cable.

 

Forgot about that. I need to make a list...

 

I think I may go L92 heads, Ls3 intake and a z06 cam? I would love to see around 475 at the crank.

 

Which Z06 cam? The LS6 cam will not be a good choice for this top end (too small and not the right split), and the LS7 cam will not work in the GenIII block. Take a look a the boards on LS1tech and spend some time reading on cam selection. There is a lot to know about this type of top end. It isn't your traditional set-up where you can toss any cam at it and make whatever the limits of the cam are (within reason). These heads flow so much yet are picky on flow velocity if the cam is not correctly matched. Your motor is at the small bore limit of these heads which further complicates things. Do not let this fool you, the LS3 top end is a steal and a proper cam costs no more than any other LSX cam. The expense comes in your research and talking to shops about various grinds. In the end, you will make TONS of power per $ and be glad you spent the time researching.

 

Ok everyone, I've started to collect some parts for my lq4. I got a set of tea stage 3 5.3 heads, green top injectors. Motor and tranny mounts, hardened pushrods, bbk intake and bbk throttle body. Now I just need to decide on a cam.

Also I need front drive accessories from a f body if anyone has it.

Dustin

 

Oh goodie! Another 6.0 build for me to watch! Im thinking about running a 6.0 with my MTI stage IIe 5.3 heads, fast 90intake, and a better cam than I'm running currently. Very curious to see how you make out with your build!

Im still in research phase...mostly trying to figure out what block I want and cam choices and all.

Good luck!

J.

 

You'll be able to do that in your sleep. 500+ HP is a reasonable expectation.

Don't use a GM cam. They give up too much trying to meet emissions and a pleasant idle. Look at the aftermarket instead. Make sure you are careful on the valve lift or you'll be needing to fly cut the pistons.

The TEA 5.3 heads you bought are great heads. They give good throttle response but still flow pretty good numbers. Choose a cam that will compliment the heads. I'd pick a cam with 230 something duration. I have an MS3 cam in my 6.0L and you definitely don't want to go any more aggressive then that. It has a rough idle and the engine has to get wound up to make power. It's the kind of cam that really deserves a set of 4.10 gears to make it friendly with the T56 6-speed trans. I don't drive big city traffic and if I did then the clutch wouldn't last long. It needs a bit of throttle to get moving and doesn't like really slow speeds. Even with 4.10 gears I never use 6th gear unless I'm on the freeway going 65+ mph.

 

I am currently looking at a ms4 my friend has for sale. I dont think ill need to fly cut the pistons do to the 8cc dish on them.

 

I've got the MS4, and it is a rowdy little thing. Just like he said above, it requires some extra throttle to get into a rolling start, and doesn't like parking lot manuevers. I didnt have to fly cut my pistons, I didnt have the heads milled any more than was needed to freshen the deck on them though either.

If you go with this cam make sure you're running some 4.10's if a 6spd. I'm switching to those with my new rear. I literally never used 6th on the highway because in order for it to no give me cam surge I'd have to be going over 75mph with the 3.42's.

 

Good deal. Did you ever find out what your car runs? also will I be able to use my lq4 timing cover and timing chain stuff if I am running fbody accessories? Ill have to atleast change the water pump correct?

 

MS3 and MS4 are very similar. MS4 is more rowdy because it has only 111 degree lobe center angle. With a good set of heads and supporting bolt-on's, these cams will put your car deep in the 11's at around 118 MPH.

These are fun cams if you want the old muscle car idle. But I just want you to be prepared that your car will not be a gentle driver with the T56. You won't want to drive in rain or cold weather. The tires will spin and the rear fishtail with the slightest push of the throttle. I have traction control on my 2000 Z28 and it engages constantly if I'm not on warm dry roads. Even on good roads it will spin the tires at 60 MPH from a roll in 3rd gear. Your car is going to be a terror from a roll when you get it put together. You should be able to walk a lot of people.

 

Hearing that bring me much happiness. Looks like im going ms4 then.

What timing cover and timing chain should I run? or with the stock lq4 parts do me good with 15k on the motor?

 

LOL!

 

Ok, I told some guys at work my motor plans and they said that theres no way that the ptv will work out. Are you guys positive that it will?

 

Maybe.... maybe not. Depends on valve size, what heads you use, how much material is removed from heads, gasket type. Your best source of info is Texas Speed themselves. Call and ask. I'm sure they've put together your exact engine in the past and can make recommendation. Even so, always dry fit the parts and just see what you get with a piece of playdough or puddy. You're spending too much money to 100% trust somebody else's opinion. The other option is you can have a professional assemble the engine and take care of all those details.

Here is a post I found at camaroZ28.com in 2006 where an employee of Texas Speed describes the MS3 and MS4. http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=464482

"Our MS3 and MS4 camshafts are not too different from each other. Both cam specs are listed below:

MS3: 237/242, .603"/.609", 113 LSA
MS4: 239/242, .649"/.609", 111 LSA

As you can see, we changed a few things with the MS4. The most notable is the intake lobe, which uses a Comp LSK-style lobe with an added two degrees of duration vs. the MS3. The exhaust lobe remains the same, but we did tighten up the LSA for a more usable powerband and better dynamic compression. With either camshaft, we definitely recommend using the Precision Race Components dual valve spring kit w/ titanium retainers. FYI, they're rated up to .660" lift. Considering the size of both camshafts, you have to be careful w/ p-to-v clearance if you are running aftermarket cylinder heads. If your heads have larger valves than stock and/or have been milled, then you will most likely need to cut valve reliefs in your pistons. It just depends on how much they've been milled, what size valves you're running, how much the valves were sunk in the heads, etc.

The MS4 camshaft is going to be slightly more aggressive than the MS3 camshaft with respect to idle and driveability. The added two degrees of intake duration and tighter LSA will make it thump a little bit harder, but it usually is not as much of a difference as people expect. The MS3 camshaft will certainly be easier on valve springs with the smaller lift. Our general manager, Brian, has been running the original MS3 camshaft with PRC dual valve springs for two years now! He's put right at 30,000 miles on the valve springs, and they're still taking all of the abuse he can throw at them. The valve springs won't have to be changed every six months with the MS4 camshaft, but I would certainly pull a spring or two once a year or every 10,000 miles or so to make sure the springs are still within spec.

With any camshaft, you want the engine breathing as well as it possibly can. Basic induction mods, along with a good set of long tube headers, are a minimum to see the full benefits of a camshaft. The smaller supporting mods such as ported throttle body, underdrive crank pulley, etc. will all help that much more.

Feel free to give us a call, and one of our sales guys will be more than happy to answer any other questions or concerns that you may have.

Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance"

 

LQ4's have dish pistons so most cams clear without issue but its always a good idea to double check with clay

Can always flycut some if theres contact

 

I only ran it once at the track and that's when the rear broke. I'll take it back with a good rear end this year

I used the LQ4 timing cover, and I replaced the old timing set with a new billet double roller set because the original one was worn out. I'd imagine it would fit and work, just didn't feel comfortable with mine with the mileage.

 

I really wanted to you the MS4 or the MS3 cam. But I called Jon at texas speed and he said I wouldnt be able to run anything bigger than a 228 cam with my 58cc chambers and 2.055" valves.


Nick how are you running that huge *** cam? Are your heads not shaved?


Can a machine shop even fly cut dished pistons? what all is involved in getting that done?

 

No my heads aren't shaved, well just enough to get a good surface on the decks, that's all. And I'm running cometic gaskets. What was his reasoning behind what he told you?

 

I asked him and he said the ms4 will not work, even with a dished piston if the heads have been milled. Im not sure what to do. He wouldnt really tell me much just to not go bigger than a 228 for clearance issues I may just buy a hot cam or a tr224 and slap in it i guess.

 

Are you sure that's what he told you? If so, he needs to be slapped. Duration isn't going to cause piston to valve issues, it's the lift.

 

Duration and lobe separation angle does play a big role. It changes when the valves open relative to piston position. You can have a lot of lift and not hit the pistons with the right cam.

 

Thats exactly what he told me. Im not sure if he meant it that way, or that he meant it as a 228 duration cam will work do to the lower lift. He was pretty short with me on the phone. I have a feeling it was because im running tea head instead of texas speed.

 

I've never fly cut pistons but my understanding is that it is not difficult. You buy a kit and cut away material with the pistons in the engine.

 

I just did a quick internet search. Looks like it is called a piston notching tool.

 

Seen people grind notches in the old valves and use those as the cutters

 

Wow, thanks a ton guys. I really want a big cam so I can break the 450whp mark without any spray. Now you guys got me looking.

 

So far from what I am seeing, this looks like a pretty good idea. Wont if any shops around me can do it in the block? I really dont wanna tear my brand new heads apart