Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I had to drop my trans out so Tick could work its magic since I lost 5th, 6th and reverse on my last outing with my car.

I figured I should take some time to reroute the hydro line, and have read about some people running it through the car, to keep it off of the header and away from the heat.

So basically, I am asking for pics, or some landmarks on the firewall/trans tunnel so I can drill some holes.... lol

thanks!

-jason

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

Check out Ghettocruiser's thread, IIRC he ran his hydraulic line through the cab and back out to the transmission. I ran mine straight from the clutch master cylinder to the transmission with thermal sleeving wrapped aound my hydraulic line.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Yeah, I wrapped mine initially as well..... just wanted to do something a little more permanent this time around.... especially since i am pulling the motor and doing a tubular k-member swap.

damn case of the 'you might as wells'

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Are you using the hawks longtubes? I am and the primaries start going down so fast that I haven't had any issues with the hydro line getting hot (that I know of). What would the biggest symptom be?

I kept losing hydrolic pressure even at cold starts but I believe the cause was contaminated fluid from not having a gasket on the reservoir lid.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Under the hood:




Inside the car:




Under the car:




I sealed the grommets with silicone. With the carpet back in place, you can't see or feel the line.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

L to R: The Harbor Freight tool that made the holes, grommet, and the metal that was punched out so the grommet fit perfectly (a pilot hole was drilled before using the punch).

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Those pics help a ton!

Thanks!

and yes, I am using Hawks Longtubes...... along with the Tick master

After about 9k, I was having to pump my clutch to get it into gear. The fluid looks horrible too. so since I'm going to bleed it soon, might as well make use of the down time to re route the line.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

9,000 miles?

Maybe that's your real issue. I've heard from a lot of people it's recommended to bleed the fluid every time you change the oil.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Use high temp brake fluid (I'm biased toward AMSOIL), and route the line away from heat, and the fluid will stay good a lot longer.

Admittedly I haven't been driving mine daily, but most of its use was to/from & at the track. It still looks like new.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

every oil change????? damn.... never heard of that one, but it sorta makes sense given the heat the fluid sees just in the throwout bearing alone.....

I'll try it once the car is back together....

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

While your trans is out...and at Tick... Buy a remote bleeder. That will make doing the fluid changes a breeze. Honestly...you can pull your oil drain plug, and then start to bleed the clutch system. Finish up bleeding the clutch and then finish your oil change.

I would post pics, but they look exactly like five7's for the most part. Did I have evidence that header heat was causing issues? No. Is header heat bad for brake fluid in general...sure. I had sleeving and wraps on my line. Even a THICK stainless heat shield. But it was just kinda ugly and I wasnt sure if I was still getting heat issues, so I went inside. Ide do it again too probably.

I also use high performance brake fluid. Its blue...and it might be from Amsoil I cant remember. Cars been down so long Im forgetting stuff

J.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

already had the remote bleeder from when I did the swap and had replaced the T/O Bearing.... I wouldn't do a swap without it.

I honestly don't know what GM was thinking when they deleted the clutch fork.....

of course, I said that when that changed from a pull to a push type of clutch release...

thanks everyone... I'll get on this next week once the motor and k-member are out

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Hey Justin, didn't you have an issue with the pilot bearing too? Did you ever get it to disengage and engage smoothly? I still haven't tried mine yet since it's been out of commission since November.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I never bled mine. Just did the Mity Vac thing. I was beginning to wonder if it was going to work (system was completely dry), but suddenly the bubbles stopped and I had a nice smooth pedal.

Personally, I don't miss clutch forks.

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

This is a cool idea. Speaking of pilot bushings, I have a brand new one left over from my Spec3 clutch install on my 95 Z28 from last year. Could I use that bushing for my LSX/T56 swap now? Don't think it matters but wanted to make sure.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I wouldn't think it would matter

I was planning on doing the same thing with mine. Rather have a bushing than a roller bearing any day

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ill never use a roller bearing on my LS swap... Bushings for me. I go into autozone and ask for a 69 Camaro pilot bushing, and a few bucks later Im good to go. Instead of ordering an expensive roller than could just fail and tear stuff up. The bushing saved my input shaft when I had issues this last time.

BlueZee28: Im pretty sure my TO bearing and slave got tore up due to my input shaft moving all over the place haha. The vibes caused retaining rings to fail and things to leak. It was just a real mess in there. After I fixed my dowel pin issue, installed the new slave, and bled the crap out of it, it was working pretty good. Still not perfect...but way better. I think my trans needs a freshen up honestly... Tick Stage 2 when I get some extra dough...

Jaysz28: Do yourself a favor. Take your time measuring for the holes if you are passing your hydro line inside the car. More specifically, you want a straight a shot as possible into the slave cylinder. If I did it again, Ide probably adjust my hole location. The old saying...measure twice cut once def applies here.

J.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Werd

I marked the floorboard area where the line would have a direct shot at the slave. Thinking about it some more though, I will wait until I have the new k-member in, set the motor in with the bellhousing on and see where the hole needs to be. Then just pop off the bell and drill a hole.

btw, I had Tick do a stage 2 rebuild on mine..... complete with all new bearings and a rem polishing..... hopefully it'll be worth it.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

What size grommet is that?

Any size on that hole punch?

Motor is out and I'm ready to get this done.....

thanks

-jason

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Heat shields should be thin metal, and preferably a metal type that cools very readily. A thick piece of steel will heat up and radiate a lot of heat onto the line. It was probably far worse then no heat shield at all.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I'm having a "while you're at it" moment since I returned my tick mc for an exchange, looks like I'll be doing this also

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

maybe I will re route it when I finally get to installing the longtubes but I doubt it. the hooker long tubes never had an issue with my gen one setups and the t56 or t5 I will see how close it gets with these longtubes before I get carried away. right now with the 3" pipes off the manifolds there is no issue

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Gads, it been a long time. I think the hole was 3/4", and the grommet fit tight inside the hole with the "lips" firmly gripping the sheet metal. I had the grommets laying around, so I can't tell you what package to get.

I could double check the sizes tonight. (Sorry, I didn't see this yesterday.)

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

No big rush, but where I'm working this week puts me real close to a harbor freight. Just be nice to run in and grab what I need....

I do appreciate the assistance. 3/4" hole sounds like a breather grommet to me, but I'll double check before I get too far down the rabbit hole.

Just dropped the motor back in on the new tubular K. Going to bolt up the bellhousing, then mark my trans tunnel for the slave side of things.

btw, didn't realize my PS motor mount was toast..... motor was definitely sitting on the stock k-member, or header... not certain which. Should be interesting how things sit/run once it isn't hitting solid parts of the car

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The punch is a kit that has several different sizes.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

I wonder if you could use the existing hole and grommet on the firewall from the cruise control harness if you don't have cruise anymore? I can't remember off the top of my head if that's located anywhere near where it would need to be.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I guess I shouldnt have said THICK in capitals. It wasnt really thick...but it wasnt as thin as the tin heat shields that came from the factory. The stainless seems to do a better job of keeping the heat out. The way I checked, was to use an infrared therm. on either side of the shield. Without it, i was seeing a good bit of heat not only in the area where the exhaust was close, but up and down stream as well.

WITH the shield, i was seeing a good drop just before and just after. And hardly any heat was making it up or down stream. The lines that were behind the shield (fuel/brake) were wrapped in everything from tin foil to heat wrap to fiberglass spark plug boots. So I was pretty sure I did some good haha.

So it wasnt far worse for sure. I am not running it anymore though. Since running my line inside, and since I want to redo my fuel and brake lines while the motor is out again. I want to avoid that area all together this time, and might run different materials for each.

I dont think you can use the holes for the cruise or any other pre-existing holes. If the master cylinder line was longer, or if you made a custom one, you could probably do it no problem. But there isnt a lot of slack to play with there. The Tick master cylinder makes routing a little better because you can actually loosen the fitting and clock it where you want it. Vs the OE style that only comes out in one spot, in one direction. However, you really dont need to do much in the way of that...just have to chose your hole location wisely and good to go.

Here are a couple pics of where mine was originally... MAKE SURE YOU CHECK YOUR OWN CAR... I did it this way first, then I made a different hole later as I didnt like the routing. This is just to show how I did it. I think my final hole was up and towards the driver's side some. I think when I have the motor out, Im going to redo this also... I want to make a custom line and route it differently. And ditch that quick disconnect that keeps leaking and is a PITA to get on/off...







And for what its worth...Im pretty sure I used a 3/4" hole saw. The grommet wouldnt have a 3/4 hole through it...it fits in a 3/4" hole. So it wouldnt be a breather grommet...which would be quite a bit bigger. Just gotta check out your local hardware store and find a grommet that you like, and then get a bi-metal hole saw to match.

J.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

How can you easily remove the quick disconnect in favor of something else? I'd like to do that if possible.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

I ran mine like the stock T5, no issues with heating and clutch issues, stock used parts. Texas heat as well.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Haha I dont know about easily... Tick is already -an. So I just need to figure out the slave cylinder end. I really hate how the inlet is just held in with a roll pin.

Since I almost always remove my trans and motor together, I could do a permanent install on the slave, vs being permanent on the master.

I seem to remember there were some existing parts that you could change the slave cylinder to accept -an line though. It was still using the OE style roll pin connection...Ill see if I can track the thread down. Might have been over on tech.

I just dont like that quick disconnect. Ive had two of them leak where the line attaches at the fitting already. And they are more than frustrating, for me at least, to release/plug in. I never have a good time of it.

J.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Yea I hate the disconnect too. Last time I removed it, took me 45 min just working on that fitting. I had to use an ac/fuel disconnect tool and zip tie it together so it wouldn't open up. That way I could use both hands on the fitting and to pull on it.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Well I took some time this afternoon to do this "mod". I was able to use the factory hole and grommet that was used for the cruise control wiring. I made an extra hole in the trans tunnel though because I didn't get it lined up right the first try. No biggie, just have to fill that in, and get a grommet put in the correct hole in the tunnel.

It looks good I think, I haven't put the carpet back down yet, but the way it's routed is away from the pedals so I won't have any interference.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

I think I'm just a bit paranoid but wouldnt the motor torquing over do a number on the clutch line with such a short distance from trans to tunnel? When I put mine together I used the clutch fitting adapters

And then used a 90* fitting just outside the trans and ran the line up the the tick MC. I tied the remote bleeder and supply lines together. Haven't had a problem in ~20k. Running uncoated SW LTs and I beat the snot out of her. Quite a few road trips as well (to eastern WA, Up to BC, down to Oregon and Northern Cali). I used regular valvoline dot4 fluid. Maybe I should flush it with some of the ate superblue I have on the shelf?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I know my driveline doesnt move much. Full poly mounts. It moves a little, but the slop in the grommets allows for more than enough.

Yeah...Im not sure if routing inside is exactly NEEDED...but it was easy to do, and I KNOW Im not boiling fluid now. WHen I make a custom line eventually, maybe Ill make it a little longer and route it back outside. I just didnt like that it ran next to the headers for like 10". That fluid doesnt move through, it just sits there and goes back and forth really. So I was finding that my fluid was breaking down really fast. Ah well...its all part of the hobby. Try new things, back to the drawing board, repeat haha.

Those are the fittings I was picturing...I just havent had time to find the post yet. The only PITA would be removing the fitting at the master cylinder. You'd lose all sorts of fluid and it would be kind of a pain to get to. I was thinking of some way to extend the part off of the slave, and have the -an fitting outside of the bellhousing. SO you could disconnect under the car and whatever fluid you lose just goes to the ground.

Thats one of the nice things about the quick disconnect. ONce its off, you dont loose much fluid. But I bleed the crap out of my lines anyway, so whats the difference.

Nick, did you put hard 90* bends in your hyd line? Im surprised that you were able to use an existing hole..but thats great!! I was afraid to bend my line too hard...but maybe with stainless braided line like that its not a big deal...

J.

406TPI

iTrader: (1)

I must have done something wrong....I have been running all GM stock stuff with the routing in the normal location and haven't had any issues for almost 20K miles...still on original fluid and with Hawks uncoated LT's. It's weird how some guys have alot of issues while others don't. Makes me concerned that mine will develope issues long before I'd expect it to.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Justin, the line that came with my Tick mc has a hard 90* at the mc end of it. So basically it comes through that cruise control grommet and will have enough slack to turn 90* and then the 90* fitting will take care of the rest of the 180* it needs to go to the end of the mc.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

since I'm enjoying the fitment of the hawks ls long tubes I figured I would bring this back. I did this (thanks BTW to everyone who posted this) it worked great. I used 5/8" grommets that needed a 11/16" hole drilled (one size smaller than 3/4"). this is almost the exact size of the fitting to the slave so the plastic collar had to come off to fit through the hole. since harbor freight is about an hour from me to buy that neat tool above I went ahead and purchased a stepped drill bit. this was also the only drill bit in that size I could find at this store. I know I could have found it but I wanted a stepped drill bit for another task.

I'm sure I could have stopped by ace and found a grommet that needed the 11/16 hole and only had a center of 8-10mm but I like the idea of the braided line being unrestricted in movement

the pictures above were great. the first hole (from inside the car) I drilled was just to the right of the lower column flange. then I went under the car and marked the location of the slave and drilled a hole into the car so I knew where the stepped drill bit needed to be used

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

A stepped drill bit was what I used to drill the pilot holes for the punch, now that you mention it.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

I still do not understand this, mine is in the hottest place in the world in Texas heat and never have had a issue. Beating the car harder than probably 99.999 percent of the folks here and still no issues. Maybe some bad luck on others parts with problems or just doing it to do so.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

the line was a half inch at best away from the primary. I really don't like the idea of the inner line melting and me having a car in front of me at a light plus with my luck Id be out beating it and get stranded. so I did this because

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, i have to check and see how far mine is.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I will bring my own thread back from the dead.....

I never got around to rerouting my hose

then last week I lost all clutch pressure. Pulled into home depot parking lot to discover my car is on fire due to the hose splitting and spraying all over the header.......

I had it tucked up next to the fuel lines, and wrapped in a heat wrap.... guess that wasn't enough

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

9 years later... i STILL hate the clutch hydraulics on these things haha.

WTR388

Jays, how often do you drive the car? I have mine routed stock but I'll only drive the car like once or twice a week in the summer... If it needs the re-routing, I'll do it when I get my Tick M/C

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I don't drive it as often as I like

I had some other underlying issues that I *just* got sorted out last week..... and then this

I've had the swap done for 6 or 8 yrs I guess, and have put 25k on the clock since then.... I am not gentle on it either. I beat the **** out of it every chance I get.... 100 mph blast up the on ramp to I-75 on the way to and from work..... check..... lol

I had it routed like stock, and wrapped in a reflective heat wrap. I had it tucked up, but the bracket I used must've come out and it was sitting on the header when it let go. I should've checked it out when the clutch started grabbing off the floor, and I found myself having to pump the clutch up after sitting at a red light..... I was prolly boiling the fluid then

I ordered a new tick mc today. I need to order some carpet, since mine is cooked. Then start disassembly of the interior...

The "you might as wells" are rearing their expensive heads, and I am going to swap in some 3rd gen pedals, reroute some brake lines and install a 4th gen brake booster....

all of that will help me get the clutch mc in though!!!! LOL

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about the fire, that's scary. Maybe time to have an extinguisher handy? It's interesting how some people have problems, others next to none. I have stock ls1 mc running to stock slave with the line running next to the sw headers. No problems with the mc or line though.

The big problem I had with mine was that the slave started to leak and finally let loose before I put the car to bed this fall. Checked out the clutch while I was I there, and wouldn't you know it, almost down to the rivets with only 20k miles on the spec 3. So, while I was there, I replaced the clutch. Now the pedal grabs much lower, just a little off the floor, any ideas? When I put it all back together I did power bleed it, so there should be no air at all.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I have found that the ls1 style clutches need to break in for some reason....

I know that was the experience I had with my LS7 clutch