So, it has taken me a long time to get a start on this swap. I finally started doing actual work today in getting the old 305 to come out. Nothin fancy, just draining fluids and getting the battery out.

Current plans:
LQ4 6.0 stroked 4 inches to square the motor.
L92 heads port and polish by West Coast Racing
Fast 102mm LSXr manifold + Big mouth TB
K1 tech + Wiseco rotating assembly, planning for around 10.5 to 1 ratio.
Have not decided on cam as of yet.
T56 junkyard + Tick Transmissions rebuild stage 2
Spohn K member
Energy Suspension mounts
Arp fasteners
Racecraft 2" drop spindles
LCA relocation brackets
Spohn control arms
Moser 12 bolt wavetrac 35 spline + Wilwood brake kit
Wilwood front brake kit
Custom strut tower brace
Sub frame connectors
A roll cage - not sure on this yet.

So, I already have most of the above items, still need to pick up the tranny, but I wil continue to collect/buy items when they become available and when I have the cash.

















This is very much a work in progress and will take me some time to complete seeing as this is my first build/swap. So do not expect me to get this done super fast like some of the guys on this forum do in like 1 weekend.

 

wow, nice collection of goodies so far, definitely a great start!

 

Thank you, wow fast response time. Yeah I have been buying and researching for about a year now. So, I figured it was about time to get ready to be ready for the swap.. if you follow me. I am sure I'll have about a thousand questions once I get under way.

 

That's going to be a killer set up. Good luck bro. Your gona love the swap. It's like night and day.

 

I'm jealous of your intake and TB


Can't wait to see this one finished.

 

Ya, I try not to think about it to hard .. might explode from excitement or something ya know?!

You are jealous of something I have? .. Well, you have a complete running car.. I am the one that should be jealous friend.

 

Nice thats gonna be one beastly engine right there is it gonna be cammed as well?

 

Yeah, total newbie .. by cammed you mean camshaft? If so, of course. Not gonna be super lumpy. I want a somewhat rev happy drivable motor for cruisin. Don't really need to win at the strip.

 

Micro update time! Woohoo, who doesnt like more photos, right??

Got the radiator out. Was going to start taking the tranny out but I have to think about how I am going to safely do that. Is it okay just to balance it on a floor jack and lower it that way?

 

Most people when removing the old driveline either drop the K-member or pull the engine and trans out together through the the front. But yes putting a jack under the trans and dropping it that way works, but you have to have the car high enough to get it out
.

 

Ya I just saw that in intimidatorz's thread. Ill be taking the engine and tranny out together. What can I do to minimize mess? I remember reading somewhere that fluid comes out of the back of the tranny and goes everywhere. Thanks for help.

 

Yeah i meant camshaft sorry for using the slang word lol... but i love seeing these swaps since i want to do a swap of this too once i get the money

 

Ya, I apologize for my confusion, like I said I am a newb to this. It is fun though so its cool. Any recommendations on cam choice? I know it sounds kind of silly but fuel mileage is cool and I want it to be somewhat well mannered with a touch of nasty. Haha, describing engine sounds is fun!

 

HAHA yeah i understand. Sorry i really don't know much of camshafts neither but i seen lots of people get good number with the ms3 cam, some guys on here will tell you which is a good cam for your combo though.

 

Do you have any sort of specs on those heads or are they stock with a polish job?

My advice would be to contact someone like Comp Cams or Patrick G over on LS1tech and have them do a custom grind to get the most out of the parts you have. Because I don't believe any of the magic stick cams were designed around a 6.0L with L92 heads, and the FAST 102mm just adds to the madness.

 

As of right now they are scoggin dickey stock L92 heads. I am going to send them off to West Coast Racing Cylinder Head to have them done. I need to call them again to get a re quote cause I honestly do not remember at this point what the specs will be.

 

Nice start! What's the specs on those spindles?

 

The front spindles are a 2" drop. I am a little scared that i went to low. I guess i will have to wait and see.

I also have the aftermarket strut tower adjustable mounts.. i forget who makes them actually. I think maybe UMI.. sorry been awhile since I went and stared at my parts, maybe I will make a point of doing that tomorrow. I believe these will drop the car even a little further, so I may have some serious clearance issues if I do not get the front set up correctly.

 

Anyone have any tips on removing the exhaust on a stock 91 RS that does not involve a sawz-all? I am talking about from the back of the cat all the way to the rear of the car, muffler and all. I got pretty much everything unbolted (except 1 annoying bolt of a type I havent ever seen before) but the way it sits up and over the rear axle I think I may just have to saws all it.

Also, how heavy is the torque arm? If I unbolt it with some plywood for it to fall onto is that all that is needed? I have a repair manual and all it says is "unbolt" lol.

 

It really doesn't weigh anything at all as its just a piece of flimsy steel with holes cut in it, 20-30lbs max. But I like to have something supporting the rearend when I take out the torque arm because the way the springs are on the backside of the axle makes it want to rotate violently if the torque arm is pulled off without support.

 

Okay, so basically now would be a good time to take the rear end out anyway. Cool, thanks. Just want to be safe is all.

 

Gonna be a bit before I can get 'em but I found my rotating assembly. It is the K1 Tech and Wiseco combo. Let me know what you think.
Crank - PN 346-4000RB6F (4" stroke)
Rods - PN CH6125ALLB-LSL8-A
Piston - PN K396xs
Rod bearing - PN CB-663H
Main bearings - MS-2199H

 

Another quick newb question. These plates ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT ) will work with the Spohn LSX motor mounts correct? I have the LQ4.

 

No. Those plates are so that you can use your stock SBC motor mounts(clamshell+engine mount). By Spohn LSx motor mounts are you talking about the clamshell or mount itself(stand)?

 

White'89, I am talking about the motor mounts/stands to mount the engine to the chassis. I was just thinking if I could get away with moving the motor towards the center of the car that this would help a little bit in the handling department.

ALSO: If I want to remove the 305/700r4 that is in there right now all in one go, as in still attached to each other, how do i do this? My manual says drop the torgue arm first. To do this it says I have to take the rear springs out first. This really seems to be borderline just plain dumb. Basically I have to take everything out just to get the motor out? Is it possible just to wedge some plywood up under where the torque arm attaches to the tranny and unbolt from tranny?

 

If you want to just reuse your small block chevy mounts then you can buy the 1inch setback plates you linked to above and they work ALMOST the same, however I used the spohn mounts with LS1 clamshell so someone who has used the setback mounts may be able to better answer your question about what other indiscrepancies you might have with them vs. the spohn ones.

When you detach the torque arm from the transmission it will want to rotate upwards because the springs are on the backside of the axle. I would just place something underneath where the panhard bar mounts to the axle and you'll be good to go.

 

Okay, I already placed plywood close to where the torque arm mounts to the tranny. I will place more just to be on the safe side. Okay, back out to the garage. Thanks for the help, this whole torque arm thing makes me a little nervous when I am under the car!

 

Okay, did what some of you guys would probly think obvious and put some jacks just in front of where the lower control arms are in the back instead of using wheel ramps to lift the rear of the car. This unloaded the rear suspension. When I unscrewed the front torque arm bolts there was no tension so no movement. Now if I could just figure out the damn size of the rear t-arm bolts I could probly wiggle this thing lose. Had to take a break due to my temper.

 

Okay, I figured out after a little research that the nut I was trying to loosen was the one that is welded to the clamp that holds the torque arm to the bracket. For any one who wants to know a 13mm socket 1/4" drive is the size to use. This really was not as hard as I was making it. The engine should be comin out tomorrow, we shall see.

 

Looks like a very nice build coming together. Look forward to your progress. Nice parts!

 

Thanks!

Anyone have recommendations on how to get the bolts undone on the engine mounts so I can get the engine out? These things are really, really, really and I mean really friggen stuck on there. I have tried everything I can think of, socket extensions, rubber mallets, etc. Thanks in advance. This is the only thing stoppin me from gettin the ole' 305 out!

 

You mean the long one on each side?

 

Yes

 

I assume you already have the nuts off? If you just cant get the bolt to come through the clamshell you need to support the motor and pull out your BFH.

 

Yeah, the nuts are seriously rusted. I am not sure if I can get them to break lose.

I put everything I had into the passenger side one and it didn't budge at all.

 

Did you have someone underneath the car try and break loose the nut while you hold the bolt head or vise versa?

Hit it with some PB blaster/WD-40etc

 

No, that is a great idea but I am kinda stuck doin this on my own.

 

Okay, got another question for you guys. I hear the 58x reluctor wheel is better but there is more support fro the 24x? Which is better?

 

Don't blame anyone for not responding to this. Did some research and found out that the 24 is for cable driven and the 58 is for wire. So, I will be going with the 24, on top of that the TB i have is a cable actuated one anyway. *slaps forhead repeatedly*

Anyway, I am looking at some used cranks on LS1Tech.com and found a 4.1" stroker crank. I know it is only .1" longer than the 4.00" crank I was already planning to put in there but, seeing how active the debate is on piston stability when you stroke these blocks, is this going to last at least a couple of years under normal conditions aka daily driver?

Thanks!!

 

I may be wrong here but I don't think the 24x or 58x reluctor wheel has anything to do with the engine being drive by cable or drive by wire. The 03-06 silverado's were 24x with a DBW throttle body.

 

Got the engine out.









No more factory turd 305 for me, no sir! Gonna be awhile before she sees road time. Oh well, it will be worth the wait.

 

have you picked a cam for that bad boy yet...?

 

fun Pain... no sir i have as of yet to pick a cam.