Wanting to do an ls swap but trying to decide between a 5.3 truck ls and a 5.7 fbody ls wanting to know besides the price wats the difference between the two?

 

horsepower. that is about it. each can be modded to outdo the other. but the same mods to each and i think the 5.7 will win.

 

You really should try a google search. This forum has ridiculous amounts of information on this swap and it has been repeated over and over many times. So please do yourself a favor and read wikipedia about vortec engines and ls engines. You should spend hours upon hours of researching all that you care to know about the newer generation engines and put yourself ahead of the curve and then perhaps you'll be able to make an informed decision about whether you wish to dive into this swap at all. Good luck.

Here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vortec
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine

Edit: You should've already read this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...third-gen.html

And since you've asked about costs, everyone has different builds. So what may cost someone $2500 to do, may cost another $6500.

 

5.3=budget, 5.7=lighter weight and more power (30-40 more), more cubes=more low end TQ.

In the long run, the iron 5.3 wins over aluminum under severe boosy or nitrous applications since the iron is stronger, seen many aluminum blocks bust under power.

NA vs NA maxed out, the 5.3 can go to 383 cubes easily, even a bit more if desired with the right kit, the LS1 can be jugged to 427 cubes.

In the long run, the 6.0 is the best with a starting 4 inch bore, but that is another story.

 

depending on how complete you get your motor will can add up too; basic 5.3 will require the fbody accessories, oil pan, and intake.

slight power differences, but that can be fixed real quick. 5.3 tends to be the budget motor of choice now for those going with turbo setups. you can also get a 5.3 bored out to 5.7 specs.

 

N/a the 5.7 will make 20-30 more hp than a 5.3... And a 6.0 will make 10-20 more hp than a 5.7.. Its really based on what you can afford... I have a ls2, its light weight, makes nice hp, and it gets 21 mpg making 463 hp through a 6 speed.

 

Not necessarily lighter, an L33 5.3 is nearly identical in weight, and pretty close in power.

 

I am comparing iron to aluminum in general and power wise, with modifications. The 6.0 will make 30ish more HP than the LS1 with being a 4 inch bore and nearly 20 more cubes. You see LS1s with H/C/I making 400-420 RWHP all day, the 6.0s go 430-460.

 

If you can find a aluminum 5.3 you can have it bored to 5.7. The 5.3 uses the same block casting and cylinder sleeve as the 5.7 except that the 5.3 isn't bored out as much. I started with 5.3 had it bored to 5.7 with a set of LS 2 heads. I know where you can usually find a 5.3 short block for around $250.

 

please post pictures.. ive yet to see any seen several ford 302s split in half but even those took some work to do

 

There is a car craft issue, 4.8 liter, stock short block made 1200 FWHP.

 

It was a stock long block with a turbo cam and matching springs

Stock heads, rod bolts, rings (worn out), pistons, rods, crank etc. They took a fully built LSx turbo setup and swapped in the stock engine to see if they could kill it

 

Ok so think im going to go with the 5.3 just have it bored out to a 383 doing this because i can find one fairly cheap where i live and also due to it being iron because i plan on doin either a turbo or procharger system in the future thanks for the information guys hopefully this winter i can get started on this build

 

Personally, Id either stroke it OR boost it, not both

Boost is essentially artificial displacement, so stroking and boosting could be countered by a stock displacement just upping the boost

Its your car, just my

 

Thunk it had ported heads.

 

Okay, about this 1200 HP 4.8: It was Hot Rod magazine (where I saw it - I don't get Car Craft so I don't know if it was in that mag as well) http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/h...g_bang_theory/ . The heads were ported and 2.00" intake valve installed, used MLS head gaskets and ARP head studs. They took the engine apart and put it back together with regapped rings. Regardless, it was an amazing exercise (hard to say how long it would hold together under those conditions).

Now, back to 5.3 vs. 5.7: Don't forget that the intake, oil pan and accessories need to be from f-body (or Vette). With the 5.3 swap, you're basically only going to be able to use the bare longblock. That seems to be conveniently left out when people talk about the "budget" 5.3 swap.

And, I don't believe you can bore out an aluminum 5.3 like you can the cast iron block. And, you can't bore to 383 (requires a stroke change).

 

Yeah i know that the parts need swapped to fbody but i can find a 5.3 a lot cheaper and then sell the stuff i dont need or go to a swap meet for other parts and how far can a aluminum be bored out to compared to a cast iron?

 

If you're boring and planning on stroking a 5.3L, just buy a 6.0L, have it bored if its even needed and you have a 370 for much cheaper.

 

The truck accessories can be used, i did, as long as a cowl hood is used. But i am carbed so the front feed air inlet that is need to clear our hoods is a different story. So it all depends on what is being utilized.

The carb swaps are fast and cheap. Unless you are like Pocket and a BAMFer at wiring, LOL.

 

when i get around to the actually swap ill probably pm pocket about making one

 

He is the wiring god.

 

Is it actually cheaper to swap a 5.3L considering you have to get all the F body intake, accessories, and wiring anyway? All those bits and pieces add up when you have to buy them separately. If I'm going to spend money on an LS swap then I'm going to spend just a little extra to have a 6.0L because they run like a raped ape. That's just my thinking and we all have different reasons for doing the swap.

By the way, anybody who says a 6.0L is more than a 'little extra' hasn't taken the time to understand the total cost of an LS swap. Trust me, it's just a little extra when you get the whole picture.

 

The 6.0 is the way to go for performance and budget. Otherwise, the issues with any iron block is there must be 1 hole drilled and tapped to utilize the F car brackets.

 

In my experience, no, a 5.3 is not the cheaper route vs a LS1 dropout. If you have 4th gen hook-ups, sure