Rad question
#1
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LSX 6.0 370, TU2 Cam, Fast intake
Transmission: T56 w/ lots of goodies
Axle/Gears: 8.8, Posi, 4.10, 31 Spline
Rad question
I was wondering what everyone is running for a rad in there car?? Im using a stock V8 rad righ now and am second guessing using it. Lookig to se what everyone is using and if you are using a aftermarket one how did it fit as I heard you have to modify them to fit. Im not looking to hack up my car for a rad really. Let me know what you got and any pics and part numbers if you got them.
Thanks Guys
Thanks Guys
#2
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Car: 1984 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
Engine: Carb'd LT1 w/ a Cam :)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/ 3.75 gears
Re: Rad question
I was wondering what everyone is running for a rad in there car?? Im using a stock V8 rad righ now and am second guessing using it. Lookig to se what everyone is using and if you are using a aftermarket one how did it fit as I heard you have to modify them to fit. Im not looking to hack up my car for a rad really. Let me know what you got and any pics and part numbers if you got them.
Thanks Guys
Thanks Guys
1) Cubic Inches
2) Horsepower
3) How you drive/Conditions your car will endure
A stock 3rd gen rad im sure is more then enough to cool your highly modified 370Cu. built LQ4, if you're just driving around. But if you're beating on it, at the track, or stuck in stop and go traffic during the hottest days of the summer, I SERIOUSLY doubt the stock rad will cut it.
But then again, like i said, you WONT know until you try. But this is also why there are companies in business that DO make aftermarket rads for our cars.
To put it simply, the more horsepower the engine makes, the more cooling capacity is required.
JFYI, my stock LT1 rad barely cuts it. I have to have my double fans running all the time in order to keep my engine cool, even if its really cold outside.
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LQ9/L92
Transmission: 4L60E
Re: Rad question
most of the swaps i've seen on here use the stock aluminum radiator without issue. if you're seeing high temps, switch over to the 3 core aluminum that people have been posting about in the cooling section
#5
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible
Engine: 6.0 LQ4 LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11s
Re: Rad question
I have the stock 3rd gen rad. w/4th gen fans in the car for my swap. I am hoping to have it running by the middle of March. I'm going to run it and see what the temps are like before swapping the rad out.
#6
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Re: Rad question
I can tell you 100% stock rad or stock replacement all aluminum rad is more than plenty for us since we both live in Ontario.I have dual 3rdgen fans right now and removed my all my a/c.During the summer I got upto maybe 210* in 401hwy traffic.Secondary fan hasnt come on yet lol.Im using the stock ls1 t-stat and from factory these motors run hot.During the fall/winter I have to place cardboard 3/4 infront of the rad because the motor would cool down from 180* to 120* just driving on city streets.
This rad has cooled 3 built motors just fine lol..now if you are going to boost the motor or do extended high rpm constant driving with alot of power then maybe an upgrade is something to look at.But on ls1tech pushing 500whp are using stock rads and fans in worse conditions without issue.The trick is keeping the rad free from debris and burping air pockets out of the lsx motors is super critical.
This rad has cooled 3 built motors just fine lol..now if you are going to boost the motor or do extended high rpm constant driving with alot of power then maybe an upgrade is something to look at.But on ls1tech pushing 500whp are using stock rads and fans in worse conditions without issue.The trick is keeping the rad free from debris and burping air pockets out of the lsx motors is super critical.
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#10
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Car: 1984 Camaro
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/4.30
Re: Rad question
I've got an aluminum Griffin with 4th gen fans. Its over kill, but hey, thats what a thermostat is for! Runs ice cold all the time, but I've yet to drive the car on a day over 70 degrees. I don't anticipate any problems.
#11
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Car: 89 Black IROC-Z convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Re: Rad question
Mine has the stock 3rd gen radiator and single fan setup. I had problems with overheating in the Alabama heat this past summer and put in a new stock one before finding that I had a faulty fan motor. Changed the fan motor and it works fine now, kicking on at about 220.
#13
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Car: 1991 Z28 convertible built 3/1/1990
Engine: Cammed 6.0L LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: custom Ford 8.8", 4.10 gears
Re: Rad question
Stock radiator with LS1 dual fans here. Fans are set at 180 and 195 I think? Can't really remember. It rarely gets above 190 even in the middle of summer.
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Car: 89 Black IROC-Z convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Re: Rad question
I've only got the single fan setup (305 TBI) and I think it switches on and off from either the A/C being turned on or from the temperature switch in the pass side head and not from the computer. As I was having trouble last summer, the info I got from a cooling fan thread was that 230-240 temp was normal for my fan to turn on.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-location.html
check posts 2,3 and 6
My car only gets to that 220 temp in stop and go traffic in the summer and then cools down shortly after the fan is on. This time of year it runs at 195 or less which is what my thermostat is rated at.
If I have something incorrect please set me straight so that I can resolve the problem. I've only got 64k on the car and plan to keep it, and keep it original for many more years.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-location.html
check posts 2,3 and 6
My car only gets to that 220 temp in stop and go traffic in the summer and then cools down shortly after the fan is on. This time of year it runs at 195 or less which is what my thermostat is rated at.
If I have something incorrect please set me straight so that I can resolve the problem. I've only got 64k on the car and plan to keep it, and keep it original for many more years.
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Car: 88 trans am
Engine: 350sb
Transmission: t400
Axle/Gears: 7.5/2.73
Re: Rad question
I blew the bottom half of my stock radiator off with my 350, just a little input.
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Car: 88 IROCZ
Engine: 5.3 Gen IV
Transmission: 4L65E
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 4.10
Re: Rad question
I've only got the single fan setup (305 TBI) and I think it switches on and off from either the A/C being turned on or from the temperature switch in the pass side head and not from the computer. As I was having trouble last summer, the info I got from a cooling fan thread was that 230-240 temp was normal for my fan to turn on.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-location.html
check posts 2,3 and 6
My car only gets to that 220 temp in stop and go traffic in the summer and then cools down shortly after the fan is on. This time of year it runs at 195 or less which is what my thermostat is rated at.
If I have something incorrect please set me straight so that I can resolve the problem. I've only got 64k on the car and plan to keep it, and keep it original for many more years.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-location.html
check posts 2,3 and 6
My car only gets to that 220 temp in stop and go traffic in the summer and then cools down shortly after the fan is on. This time of year it runs at 195 or less which is what my thermostat is rated at.
If I have something incorrect please set me straight so that I can resolve the problem. I've only got 64k on the car and plan to keep it, and keep it original for many more years.
#17
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Car: 89 Black IROC-Z convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Re: Rad question
If your running a stock untuned PCM then they are designed to run hot. The factory primary fan doesnt cut on until 216-218 and the secondary one cuts on at 228-230. They run them hot for emissions. Would we like them to run cooler......absolutely. Will it hurt it to run 220......absolutely not. These engines run better at higher temps. thats why you dont see too many people running 160 stats. most only drop it to a 180.
#18
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Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LSX 6.0 370, TU2 Cam, Fast intake
Transmission: T56 w/ lots of goodies
Axle/Gears: 8.8, Posi, 4.10, 31 Spline
Re: Rad question
Seems like stock will work for now but i have seen some guys using a ebay rad thats 3 core as well. I dont expect to see traffic really as I work nights and know all the back roads if the Hwy is backed up. I also have a 160 thermostate and am running 3rd gen duel fan set up
#19
Supreme Member
Re: Rad question
Richboll Id suggest adding a manual fan toggle switch in your case for simple reliable cooling.But ideally..find a set of 3rd or 4th gen dual fans cheap and wire it to the ecm.I dont have a/c on my car anymore but I used a relay being triggered by my original a/c turn on wire..which will manually turn on my secondary fan if I ever had overheating issues or any other type of failure for cooling.Oh and when i did this and was testing it out..I had to use a diode to prevent the ecu from knowing I manually turned the secondary fan on..it tripped a code lol..too smart for its on good.
Have any of you tried some of those stand alone electric fans with adjustable temp sensor? I seen one on a astro that had a lt1 swap and it was 3 wire hookup(12v,ground,ignition) and all you do is turn the dial to the temp you want the fan and off at.I can see that being great for the carbed guys.
Have any of you tried some of those stand alone electric fans with adjustable temp sensor? I seen one on a astro that had a lt1 swap and it was 3 wire hookup(12v,ground,ignition) and all you do is turn the dial to the temp you want the fan and off at.I can see that being great for the carbed guys.
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