Im looking for an lt1 on craiglist to replace my lo5.
I'm keeping my 700r4, and I'm jut trying to keep up with ls1's and newer cars.
Most of the 93-94 lt1's have less than 150k on them for 500 or less for he harness and computer and the 95-96 have over 150k and want 500 or more for the motor harness and computer.


So for the people who have done this what year and computer would you prefer?

If I have to spend more than 600 for the motor etc I'm leaving it as is.
But if I can find one cheaper i can get the motor etc and mild cam for 600?

I have been searching all day but this question isn't quite answered.

 

'95 is the sweet spot from my understanding. Comes with the vented opti, and is flashable.

 

Haven't found a 95. Found a lot of 93's and a few 96's

The 93's have a computer like ours
And the 96 can be flashed like the 95's I believe

 

96-97 has OBD2 and is not as easy to tune as 94-95 OBD1. Stock vs. Stock all LT!'s are pretty close in power, it really comes down to the extras(aluminum heads, vented opti, OBD1 and 2). IMHO if you can find one with low miles for a good price I would take it. The rod bearings are known to scar and thats where you get into the money. Then you might as well pull the heads. Then you might as well pull the cam. Then you might as well just re-build the short block.

So do your homework, look for one with an owner that seems like he at least cared enough about the motor to change the oil frequently and took care of it. Dont buy one for a few hundred bucks thats been in some guys shed for 5 years. I found a 97 Trans Am that had been hit in the back quarter. I helped pull the motor so I could check milage, oil, condition, etc.

If you find a low mileage engine that you know was running before you bought it, slap it in and have fun!!

 

And so I want the vented opti?
And aluminum heads? I read the iron lt1 heads flow better

Right now I'm talking to two owners of the 93 lt1 one motor only $400
The other motor and tranny $800
Both have 120,xxxx miles with accessories

Then there is a guy with a 96 vette lt1 with tranny for 650 with no accessories

But my budget is 1000.


It's really hard to tell if they have even taking care of them. I'm just going off their word. Anything I should have them take a pic of?

I'm gonna change the oil, do a tune up on whatever motor I get, and try to sea foam it before I put it In so the plugs are easy to get to but they may be too hard.

The 93's I find easy.
Bolt-ons and a tune from pcmforless.com would have me around 300-330 and I should be able to hold my own against most.

I don't have the need for speed low-mid 13's and a top speed of 170+ with 2.73 gears I'll be done modding my engine

 

vented opti is a better design, yes. Get a motor with the harness, PCM and all accessorys. It will save you money in the long run.

 

Probably why the 93's are cheaper, they aren't vented.

 

93's have a few differences about them. The computer, throttle body (uses a 700R4 with cable, later use electric 4L60), believe they are batch fire vs. sequential, fuel rail is different.

If you end up with a 93, you can use a later harness and computer if you have to. May need to make a few changes though.

Optis, vented are better. Don't let that steer you away from a good deal though as by now if it's stock it should be replaced anyway. At least the cap and rotor anyway.

I wouldn't be so worried about what year you end up with as much as the condition it is in. Obviously newer and less miles is better. But I'd take a clean higher millage one over a dirty abused newer one. Don't forget to look for motors out of B-bodys (Impallas, Caprice, Roadmaster, Caddys). They have iron heads but a tad smaller cam I think. Beware of the baby Lt1 (L99 4.3L v8) looks identical on the outside, has a different casting number (588?)

 

I guess I have more research to do. To see the pros and cons of Bach fire and sequential.
And I don't know how to tune so if I read right I can get a modded computer/tune for anything up to 95 from pcmforless.com would that change anything About what year to look for?

I plan to do a full tune up when I get it to be safe. And for some reason I just don't want a lt1 from a b-body

These things are really helping. Thanks

 

Why wouldn't you want a b-body lt1? my lt1 and 4l60e were out of a caprice. I went through it before putting it in my car and it was in great shape. A lot better then what I was expecting to see. Whats more likely to be romped on all the time or stop light raced a caprice or a camaro? I'm just saying I wouldn't let what the engine was pulled from necessarily determine whether to buy it or not.

 

'94 or '95 are going to be the easiest in the long run due to their tune-ability. it is nice that the '95 has a vented opti but like toomany said don't let that steer you from a god deal. You can always convert to a vented opti at a later date. The vented opti is said to be better longevity wise in case you were wondering. I'm running a mad z28 tune on my car and it runs great.

 

You got a good point there. But the b body's have a smaller cam and get 20 less Hp. I really just wanted to plug and play. And it would be pointless to switch cams for 20 Hp and lookin around I won't have enough for a tune and cam

 

To they send you a computer already done or you put it in with something you bought?

 

He can do either. It is cheapest if he emails you the tune and you load it yourself. You can also mail in your pcm and have a tune loaded.

 

But the tools to load it. Programmer etc iss like 150?

And the tune wouldn't make up for the 20 Hp I lose with the cam.

But would the vented 95 b body opti make up for the 93 non vented opti I keep finding. Meaning buy the bbody lt1 instead on the non vented?

 

Sorry. Cheapest if you already have a laptop, tunercat ($25), and a usb to ALDL cable($45).

93–95 F-bodies were rated at 275 hp and 325 tq.
94–96 B and D-bodies were rated at 260 hp and 330 tq

Lose 15hp and pickup 5tq.

 

Yea I don't have any of that lol.

Is there a mild cam that's readily available pretty cheap ? Then it wouldnt matter
Unless one has way better heads or something.

And I seen quite a few 96 body lt1s stay away or rheyre good as well?

 

You could just throw a F body cam in. Probably find one for next to nothing if you look in the right places.

 

Got a clue where to start?

 

A b body would be nice if I could find a mild cheap cam like a lt1 corvette cam. They iron heads flow better but weigh 50 lbs more. And all the b bodys have the vented opti.


If I want power ill have to get the 93. They're easier to find locally. But they have the non vented opti and I would have to upgrade the cam.


There is a 96 vette lt1 but no accessories and I don't know if its worth it.

But its hard to find a cam under 200 on eBay and my budget is already hitting its limit.

A bolt on lt1 should walk a stock ls1 but not if I have a stock b body with bolt ons

 

Theres so many forums sites for lt1s. Ill PM you a few. Just go in the for sale forums and post in the "Parts Wanted" section. Works everytime, and quick.

 

You're close to me. Where you get your lt1?

 

Is your $1000 budget for just the engine or for the entire swap?

 

Swap.

 

If you had to choose which one
Which one would you pick to beat stock ls1s?
Just bolt ons

93 lt1 better cam non vented opti speed density chip
Or
95 96 impala ss loss in 15 Hp vented opti maf programmable?

 

Start with a F-body or Vette LT1. Why? The Aluminum heads don't give up much in terms of head flow, but the compression advantage is worth it. Also the stock cam is much better. And you also get to save 50lbs off the front of the car in the process. A Vette LT1 gives you the advantage of being able to run A/C without notching the K-member.

Why bother with a cam if you are on a budget? Do all the bolt-on stuff first, then look into a LE1 setup for budget heads/cam.

Stock B-body LT1 with bolt-ons and a tune. My car weighs 3750lbs race weight and ran darn near bottom 13's on crap tires. With good tires 12s would have been possible. Never been dynoed but if I had to give a number I'd say 320-330hp at the crank. And it started with 260.

 

So you would start with a fbody even tho you have a b body?

 

I have a B-body LT1 simply because that was the deal for the complete drivetrain.

I bought it back in 2005 or so and it was still $1600 for the Swap Harness/PCM/Engine/Trans.

It was a good deal, but no. Unless I came across a smoking deal I'd be going after a F-body LT1.

Actually, I'd be going after a Gen3/4 5.3L but thats becuase thats the new hot swap engine. Cheap as chips, way more power.

 

The prices are about the same from what in finding. About 500

Would I have to change my current exhaust? I know the lt1 is plug and play with my current headers and would it work with my stock trans

 

Externally the LT1 is a SBC for all intents and purposes when it comes to dropping it in the car.

For the Gen3 stuff you'd need to read up on the LS based swap threads. But the gist is that you need aftermarket motor mounts to drop it into the car. You need an F/Y intake, and a F-body oilpan. SBC exhaust will not bolt-up. Its either swap headers or a custom Y-pipe using stock manifolds. If its something you think might be worth it you should research it and compare costs.

If you decided the Gen3 swap is too much trouble then invest in bolt-ons, and save for a heads/cam setup.

Even after my LT1 started knocking I didn't rip it out and go Gen3 because I have so much invested in heads and cam that it would cost me more money to get to the same power level due to the initial swap costs for a Gen3.

So I'll be sticking with Gen2 for a little bit longer. I also won't do it unless I can get my hands on an aluminum block which costs more. If i'm going to make the Gen 3 plunge I'm doing it with an Aluminum block for the weight savings. I like road racing anyways and less weight up front is always welcome.

 

Yea the ls is not gonna work inlets it's an ls1 lol
I just replaced my whole exhaust less than 2 weeks ago. Cost way too much to change it. So its out the question.

Unless theres another engine I like the lt1 lol.
But being Realistic cam is the most I'm gonna do to the motor, knowing me and it will be a mild one at that.
I work at a gas station and everyday a new lt or ls1 is calling me out and all I can say is wait til the summer so I gotta be able to back it up

 

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/3557885033.html

I'm going to try to get this, this weekend

We settled for 300

 

Good find man!

 

Ima gonna change the oil and tune up. You recommend sea foam to get the engine running strong?

 

Never had any experience with sea foam. Pull the valve covers and atleast make sure it looks clean, and not covered in sludge. And DEFINATLY change the oil pan gasket while it out.

And start looking at wiring diagrams, or start figuring out where your gunna send your harness. And you need a bigger fuel pump.

 

Sea foam will help clean it up, but its no rebuild in a can.

 

That looks rough and like its been sitting apart for awhile.

I would expect to replace intake oil pan and valve cover gaskets at least. Pulling them off will give you a chance to see how everything else looks.

 

It's gonna need a tune up. Maybe 2 injectors, injection Modeule about to go see itnow

 

I thought the stock one was fine

 

You wont be able to just plug the stock harness into your car. It will take some modifications.

 

I got the motor, harness, and computer a packaged deal

 

Cool, but you will still have to do some harness mods.

 

That's my mechanics job lol but I gave him the some links from here

 

Rough is an understatement. Engine was/is filthy. Mechanic gonna clean it up. I'm replacing gaskets so there's no leaks. And they broke the injection Modeule pulling it out

 

I meant stock fuel pump

 

Since you have the 350 it might be, but I doubt it. The TBI motors dont required as much fuel pressure as the LTx

 

Mine is stock. 305 I believe

 

I'm in the process of a LT1 swap for my 92 RS (although I went with a b-body LT1 with 85k on both motor and tranny from a Roadmaster).

I was looking at the fuel pumps today and it looks like the fuel pump from a 350 TPI has the same PSI as the LT1 which is between 80-90 PSI.

 

If you have a tpi car you don't need to upgrade the pump. It'll work fine with all lt1s

 

TPI yes, TBI probably not