working on my 1991 RS i bought a while back.
pulled the motor and trans. collecting parts for my ls swap
going to use a gt500 blower on top of a 4.8
custom accessory drive built by me. 8/10 rib.
gonna run manual steering so wont be running ps although i do make a really nice ls accessory drive for swaps
i just want to max out the blower and i have pretty beefy arms, so i dont think the manual steering should bother me too much. car is not a dd. so not concerned with ac comfort, mpg and other creature comforts.
Engine
2009 4.8 shortblock:
stock rotating assembly, stock rods, ring gaps, rod bolts, cam, timing set
upgraded oil pump ported by me and increased pressure spacer.
ebay 12 point head studs
GMLS9 head gaskets
7.4 PR
317 heads upgraded with BTR springs.
JESEL SS Series 1.7 rockers arms
i luv these rocker arms. non adj. but dam if they are worth every cent. im on my 3rd set. i plan on 7000 rpm. and i although i having against good condition low stock rockers. i prefer these over other aftermarket rockers.

the sc will be mechanical/spring loaded tensioner based off the current set i make and use now. i designed it for swaps and have both the truck and car offset versions. here is the car offset. for reference
you can see it uses OE relocated spring loaded fbody tensioner and a mechanical tensioner. designed it for hi rpm and inboard design. the
alternator sits alot more inboard to the motor in all directions. works with both stock fbody/truck power steering pumps. i also make my own power steering set that uses gm type2 power steering and remote reservoir.
pictued is gm and my version ps
this is the base for my drive since i usually get all kinds of questions about it. it works with various configurations. ls1 fbody or gm truck

 

next mod is get better dam camera. lol
going off my pos phone. think i should get a iphone or something.
i am gonna take better pics of all the stuff i am working with.
im gonna build the car to see how much i can max that sc on meth and e85
now available at a krogers 5miles from my house.
thats why im using the low compression 4.8. gonna jam any and all pressure that gt500 blower can push.

 

made some progress. work 12 hr days. so when i can get to it.
currently working on painting engine bay black rustoleum gloss black
manual gear box installed
working on 4th gen brake master cylinder and maybe 4th gen booster. but gonna try get away with 3rd gen booster and 4th gen mc/fluid reserve
a moc up pic. figured out all the correct dimensions.
engine sits correct in pic with headers and transmission bolted in place.
as it sits in pic.
these headers cost less than the known headers and pretty much fit in place. gotta notch the trans ears, just a tad. but expected. 1 7/8 3in collectors

 

Nice projects . is that a truck blower ?? and Pics of those head bolts ? Do they look pretty good ?

 

Noticed that the p/s looks like the ctsv set up but not

 

Looking good. Where on earth did you get that lower manifold from?

 

pump is a gm type 2 used in many other gm vehicles.
aluminum casting ps pump instead of stock ls1 cast iron.
i makr a bracket. that locates the pump more inboard(towards the center of the block)
uses remote reservoir. make both truck/car offset. its an alternative to the stock 98-02 ls1 fbody power steering pump.
blower is a oe 2010 ford 5.4 gt500 unit. got it for 550$ shipped.
brand new head units are about 1000$ new. ive read that they can support about 750bhp
or around 600rw thru built stalled th400/12 bolt. bout what im expecting.
prolly get close to 700rw with e85 and aggressive ignition tune

 

thanks
found it on yb classifieds. a sc shop. iirc it was rec. port prototype.

 

If you ever see another intake tub like that FS please shoot me a PM. Been looking for years

 

410ci LQx 8.5:1 SCR
4.04 bore
4in stroke 24x
6.125 HBeams ARP bolts
35cc spherical dish w vr
Hellfire rings
coated clevite bearings
ARP Main studs
DBL Roller billet steel timing gear
GM Oil pump, ported/shimmed by me .070
expect 70psi cold 10w30

L92
70cc
GM IN/EX valves
self ported, new seals, BTR duals
milled .005

"SINISTAR" cam
ground by Bullet Racing
spec: has a ****load of overlap, sinks valves deep and hangs open prolly way too long
spec by me, prefer not disclose vlave events, but its up there.

 

guess i should change title.
motor grew from 4.8 to 410 somewhere along the way

so my SS wouldnt feel left out. i bought him new set of kicks

 

Interesting....... could you get another one of those lower manifolds?

 

i told the person i bought it from, sell me a pallet of em.
unforrunately, was last one. i got lucky i guess.
manifold needs some machine work, but its easy stuff for me. working on the "lid" part and ic for it.

 

Whar headers are you using?

 

Nice work Carlos. Should have let you drive the RS a while back with that manual box. It isn't bad. You aren't a lil fella, so you will not have any complaints.

 

thanks bro!
car wont b a dd, i think i can handle it.

 

Yea, you be fine. Just hurry and finish so I can drive it. Should have the stang running ASAP. Got some more swap parts from borgeson. They make power steering lines for my swap. Lol

 

i love how the cubic inches really jumped up there...looks awesome man!

 

you alredy know.
this **** is gonna shift at 7500rpm, im sure got no objection to that
gonna need u help sorting out suspension.
i got the moser 12 bolt
edelbrock box lca
fp dbl adj. phb 2in drop springs
rear shocks stock
front suspension is stock
manual gear box
dont know what to get for rear/front shocks. would like 1.5/2 drop in front also if wont affect susp too much for track use.
gonna run on stock rs wheels til get car running. plan on fikse fm5 wheels.
deep dish offset in rear, would like to run 325. if possible.

 

was originally gonna use a 4.8 i have. wanted to have something tame but still made good hp. meh
car has 4in cowl. not fooling anybody. not into sleepers either.
so just decide to build something to back up the look. this setup should hold up well for a while. eventually if i decide go twin tc78s. engine more than capable i think

 

headers were built by local that was looking into getting into selling em.
.485 header flange
1 7/8 tube
3in. collector. has the diamond thing in the collector deal
welded outside/inside the tube. im working on polishing the inside of the tube.
good clean beads. but im doing it, just to do it.
i payed 600$ for them stainless steel. have o2 sensors bungs that dont interfere with anything. headers were built around t56. but since im using th400, gott notch a 3/8 x 1 area on trans case.on driver side.
pass side. completely clears everything in every direction. ground clearance no worse than whats on my 4th gen now.
im using a ctsv oil pan, better fit than the fbody pan.
i just liked the way the v pan fit better. looks like it could have been the stock pan for this car. factory looking fit.
fbody pan i have, had to bang kmember some.

 

Will need LCA relocation brackets for sure. Adjustable lowers would be better. Adjustable tq arm as well. A 325 can be done with mods to the rear well housing. It is a bit of work.

 

along with beating the wells, im gonna order the wheels from fikse to get me close to run the 325. the offset should help to manipulate it some. fenders are alredy rolled.
guy that came by and did em on my 4th gen also did on 3rd gen.
thinkin bout jegs adj tq arm
not sure on sfc at this point. not sure which to go with atm.

 

finished painting the engine bay gloss black.
took off booster to paint it and to paint areas behind it.
need a tpi throttle cable. unless i fab a bracket to run a ls1 cable

 

working on the drive of the blower.
using fluidamper with ati 8.66 8rib sc crank pulley
my own idler brackets with my mechanical/spring loaded tensioning system.
works well on 7500rpm car now. should be fine for this setup
97-98 water pump spaced .625 pulley off flange
91 tbi alternator. with 8rib pulley. modded for 160 amp and better internals for hi rpm
gonna run single 8rib belt. no power steering.
alredy have manual steering box installed
still working some things outon the drive/serpentine.
using 8.66 lower 3.00 upper pulley combo.
gonna fire up on that combo. lower pulley is max size before it hits my wp
but im gonna use a 2.6 upper.

 

2.88 dr with the 3.0 upper is going to be a struggle with the 8 rib. 3.33 dr with the 2.6 upper is going to be nuts. Blower will max out when you hit 6k. You should definitely do it, but go to 10 rib

 

yea pocket. i did the math on the dr.
i hope the 8rib can hold to 6k rpm. i have 410ci, cam is pretty pumped, had the heads milled for flatness. didnt get chance to have flowed. but should b in 340cfm range on intake. so i think even maxing out the sc it wont build over 15psig.
i do have a meth kit for use pre rotors on hobbs switch.
i have 1 idler pulley around snout pulley now. but thinking i may have to get on the lathe and carve out a pulley bridge. with idlers on both sides of the snout pulley.
i alredy have the 2.6 pulley, but want to get baseline on the 3.00 pulley.
im alredy lookin for a 2013 5.8 head unit.
the lower is a sc pulley designed for lsa motors with ati dampers.

 

gonna fire up the motor n/a w my ls3 intake and 90mm tb.
i need to know what its gonna punch out on motor with my self ported heads and my own spec out cam.
im building a forged rods/pistons ls2 for a friends trans am. gonna drop motor in his car to get a baseline readout. since his car is just drop in motor and run.
my rs is all in pieces since im restoring every and anything i dont like.
want to get a dyno ballpark baseline number. and break in/seatthe hellfire rings.
before pump boost thru it
dont really expect alot n/a, if my ***** math is correct. looking at 500fwhp or right at or round 400rwhp. with 20% drivetrain loss