Earlier this year I bought a complete engine/trans takeout from a very low mile '13 Camaro 1LE including wiring, ECM, driveshaft, all pedals and the fuel pump. The transmission is a close-ratio TR6060 MM6. The negative thing is that I have to order a custom driveshaft to make it fit. I also had to order a torque arm that was mounted to the new transmission crossmember. I guess I also have to change gear in my rear axle beacuse the 1LE has 3.91:1 gears, but then again the new Camaro has larger tires...
I like the idea that my car goes technically from a third to a fifth gen (witch makes it a fourt gen? ). It will not be an original matching numbers car any more, but still a pure F-body

My '87 Trans Am and it's 125k miles 305 just before engine/trans and crossmember was dropped.
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The new LS3 and trans after many long weeks on the sea from New Jersey to Norway
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The transmission gives me some challenges, but people put these tranmissions in BMW's and I that must be more difficult.
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I'm currently working on the fuel part of the project. I had to modify the gas tank quite a bit to make the fifth gen pump fit. My idea is to keep the old fuel measurer at the same time, because it already have wiring and will be the easiest solution. I did not like that my Trans Am was suffering from fuel starvation in every fast turn when I had 1/3 or less in the tank. But the fifth gen design wit a cup around the fuel should make a stop for that problem.

The things I have left is to extend the mounting of the pump so it will stay lower in the tank. And because the tank does not have a flat bottom I want to make a small tube from the pumps inlet to the bottom of the tank. Then I just have to wait for my friend with the welding machine. Note that the new pump has only one outlet instead of the four from the third gen. It have a built in fuel pressure regulator.


From the inside you see that I need to extend the pump a bit.


On the fuel line from the pump I received, this brown little thing sits on. It has connection for a few electrical wires. Does anyone know what it does, and if I need it in my setup? Does it read fuel pressure or something?

 

This is very Sweet! I'm sub'd as I'm building something very similar.
Good luck and take lots of pictures!

 

You need pickups on the bottom of the tank, not just a tube. like shown here

The 5th gens use a PWM for the pump for pressure, the connector and pressure setup are needed.

 

Thanks for the input, but it made me wondering. I found some guys that had a lot of info and parts for this fuel pump: http://vaporworx.com I e-mailed them and they told them about my setup but they said that the corner pickups (like them on your pic) will not add significant shosh performance. So then I did not see the point in using $100 for the two pickups. Why cant just a simple tube without pickup do the job?

 

How are you solving the shifter issue?

 

I guess if you're not looking to go around any corners at any speed with a low tank of gas you should be fine with a hose just on the bottom of the tank, but I think you're missing the pint of the whole setup without it. I saw Carl run at Optima, I think 4 years ago, and he did the whole thing with 1/4 tank of gas using what is pictured there in my post.

 

Since the rail is exposed, is should be easy enough to relocate a new setup.
The difference is around 3.5" to a LS t56?

 

Cool swap

 

Scooter, thanks for your reply. I will have to dig deeper into this stuff before I weld the gas tank. My plan is exactly going fast around corners. Sometime in the future when the swap is done and the wheels and some more suspension are upgraded, I plan to test the car on the Nürburgring. The track is only a night on the ferry and a few hours of driving away from me.

Yes, I have also read that the difference should be 3,5" longer compared to a T56. Because my Trans Am is an automatic, I probably will find out what length that suits me best and then cut the hole for the stick. Then I will shorten the rod between the shifter and the output on the TR6060. The rod is about 6 inches long. It should be easy to cut out a section and weld it together again. The rod is actually one of the few visible parts on the transmission that are made of steel. The shifter seems to be a strong unit. I'm not sure if I should weld it to the chassis or to the transmission?

 

Subscribed.

 

I thought there was a shifter that will bolt right in place of that cover where the rod goes?

 

Subscribed

 

WHY WHY WHY DO PEOPLE DO THIS!!!!!

There is a button at the top of the tread for this, so you don't have to waste post space.

 

How did you snag that drivetrain? Just curious, did some poor guy total a '13 1LE?

 

Looks like you are taking your time and planning everything out. I am very interested to see this build continue. Please take lots of pictures.

 

Most likely

 

The carfax said it was bougth in May 2013 and after almost 5000 miles, chrashed in november 2013. All services was also mentioned in the report.

Another question, have anyone seen someone mounting the brake pedal or the brake booster from a fifth gen? It did not fit right out of the box, but I guess I was hoping for too much. They are not that different so I have not given up yet.

 

Ouch! Talk about a wild ride

I dont recall ever seeing a 5th gen brake setup swapped beyond the calipers, but it cant be that hard. Do a search on hydroboost and see how they convert. The old booster has the mounting base removed and attached to the new booster and a custom rod is built

 

Wow! good find then!

 

I found This, it should work for you if the remote shifter is still far back, which I suspect it will be since even the LS1 shifter in the stock location is a little too far to the rear for the console. It works, but it can be close to the back of the opening for the shifter.

 

Nice. I found a simular shifter kit, but that one cost $430! I have to do some measuring inside the cockpit first, because I suspect it will end up to far away. By looking at the picture in post #10 it looks like it will end up almost in the cd-player. But have to measure to be sure.

 

Any updates?
I want to see the fuel system!

 

Hi, had to let this project wait for some time due to studies in another town, far from my garage. But I am back now and hopefully I will have some time this winter/spring to work on the car!

I ordered two fuel pickups from vaporworx + some parts that will make the 5th gen fuel pump work without any more regulators (hopefully). I welded mounts in each corner of the fuel tank for the pickups. Stay tuned and I hopefully have some more updates this winter on the fuel system.

 

Looks good. Is that enough hose to reach both sides of the tank though? I used two sections of hose on one side and one on the other, granted the 2nd gen tank is a little wider than the 3rd, but that doesn't look like enough. It is also hard to tell, but are your brackets situated so the puck will sit against the bottom of the tank?

 

Why not just use one of these for a fuel pickup?


http://fuelsafe.com/store/holley-hyd...cking-mat.html

 

The lines are long enough to reach both corners in the tank. Have attached another picture of the pump and lines now. I still need to extend the metalpins between the bottom of the pump and the top to make it possible for the fuel pump to reach the bottom of the tank. Then the system will pick up fuel from each corner and directly from the pump.
The bracets is easy to bend when the pickup are mounted so the pickup will be pressed against the bottom of the tank.
I could probably have used the product you link to, mcgarnicle, but it's kind of late now, and the pickups was a lot cheaper.

 

Have you seen the Holley Hydramat?

 

I don't think you need to worry about the sender touching the bottom since the only way for fuel to get into the bucket is from that draw tube and above. There is no way for fuel to get in from underneath, so it shouldn't matter, I could be wrong though.

 

How is this project coming? I bought an LSA/TR6060 combo. I'm trying to confirm what all is needed to get the transmission to work. What torque arm and cross-member did you use?

 

Biggest issue is converting to a slip yoke...or use a telescopic drive shaft.