im getting ready for and ls1 swap just finished dropping the engine out of my car last night. ive decided im going to get a whole 4th gen for my swap i know the 6.0 is stronger but ive never swapped an engine before and think getting a whole 4th gen might make it a little easier. since it will have the computer trans and gas tank along with some other things. but the thing that im most worried about is the wiring. my car was a carb car from factory is there any thing in my factory harness that needs to hook in to ls1 harness. and how would i build a separate fuse block for all my wiring thanks.

 

i thank hawksthirdgen has a service its expensive though

 

I'm going to probably buy a harness off pocket. but want to know if I need to keep any of my old harness.

 

i recently contacted them about there service and the reply said they needed the stock harness and the new harness

 

With a stand alone, it controls ONLY the engine/trans. All your chassis power/gauges still need to be ran off the old engine harness. Read over the 3rd gen harness prep thread to see how to trim it down to the basics

A good stand alone from any supplier will only need 12v IGN to be connected to be able to run. Gauges and other outputs are optional, but Id recommend them

FWIW, I build plug and play harness new from scratch for less than Hawks charges to marry two used harnesses together

 

So I get one of your harnesses and plug it into the ls1. and plug it into the few necessary wires in my old harness. it should go vroom I don't need to build a separate fuse block for any of it or do I. Thanks

 

Any stand alone will come with a fuseblock attached. My plug and play harnesses come with the 3rd gen body connectors so you dont even have to connect anything. Sometimes connection are unavoidable, but they're few

Any 85-92 car that was originally EFI and is doing an auto to auto or manual to manual conversion is 100% plug and play

Carb cars require the fuel pump wire to be connected unless it came with an in-tank helper pump. If thats the case, then its 100% P&P

Auto to manual conversions require the two back-up lights to be connected and the clutch switch wired

When using a stand alone (any mfr, myself included) splice the IGN, hook up the FP and starter sol wires. Hit the key and go. Everything else is optional. You can even leave all the old wiring intact if you're really lazy. I wouldnt recommend that though

The terminology can be confusing sometimes as multiple mfrs interchange plug and play with stand alone. For my harnesses, plug and play has body connectors, gauges, fans, HVAC, etc and it married to the one specific car it was built for. I also build stand alones, but they're geared to being universal. Put it in a 3rd gen, classic, boat, heck, fire it up on an engine stand. A P&P only fits the car it was made for

 

you by any chance would not have some pics of the type of set up im going to go with. would you or any set ups would be helpful. i think im getting the idea on it now. but some pics if available would be nice thanks.

 

My car was a carb (non-computerized carb), and I also used aftermarket gauges (speedhut, the best out there for the money I think).

From the C100 (the big connector next to the brake booster) all I kept from the engine side of that plug (the other half controls lights, windshield washer) was the starter signal wire which goes down to the starter solenoid and two power wires that power everything on the car that isn't related to the engine. There is also the ignition wire which is the signal to the ignition relay from the key, this is what switches the car on.
I had traced out what wires in the C100 connector were for the tach, oil pres, water temp etc but since my gauges came with their own sending units and my tach reads from the LS1 computer, I just bundled my gauge wiring in with my harness.

I built my harness, and set up my own fuse/relay center but my fuse/relay set up is an eye sore so I'm getting a fuse/relay box from Pocket so I can hide it better.

I really enjoyed the wiring, and going the DIY route you will learn a lot and will help with trouble shooting in the future.

 

I personally went with a harness with Pocket. Sell your harness to help pay for it. It's all brand new and imo insurance for later. When I got my stuff the truck ran but when I got into the harness it was chewed up from over the years. I'd take a look through the guide that's on here and see what you think.

 

Sure thing. Heres a plug and play harness for a 90-92 camaro



Stand alone for a 73 corvette



Heres the fuseblock for WTR, same thing I use for all stand alones and carb car P&P harnesses

 

Pocket sent you a pm.