here's the car





And the engine from a '01 Sierra 120k miles when I brought it home

 

The motor in clean up and paint stage


And the motor now with an ls6 intake

 

The goal is 350 to the wheels is i it easy to accomplish? I want to put a cam in it nothing big or excessively lumpy just a proven setup with my ls6 intake, don't know about the heads yet because I currently have castech 706 heads that are supposedly prone to cracking and they also need a valve job I called my machine shop and was quoted $175 for the pair or should I do milled 243 heads. I'm going with f body accessories of course so currently ISO those let me know if anyone has anything. Another question is the motor mounts I'm planning to go with a 4L60e I heard the truck 4l60e is shorter than a Fbody 4l60e my concern is will it connect perfectly (trans to drive shaft) I was looking at the hooker motor mount adapters

 

Okay, one really dumb question: How are you going to get this through the smog test?

 

It won't pass, I'll just take it to the track

 

350 to the wheels is like 430hp at the crank and that's only accounting 20% loss through the auto and drivetrain. You better be pushing that motor to the max, aftermarket heads or heavy ported, big cam spin it to 6500. Your motor made 275hp new you only need to make 170hp more lol.

Keep it stock, throw a Gt45 on it and let it eat. You be way over 500hp at the crank with any respectable boost.

I run a torqstorm supercharger and I'd be lucky to hit 550hp at 12psi on my stock 5.3.

 

I haven't heard that, except 4x4 transmissions, of course. The Hooker mounts should work.

If this is for the track (you didn't say what kind of track), a rear end upgrade should be presumed. And, a 3" DOM shaft with 1350 u-joints. So, whether the drive shaft fits should be moot - get a new one fabricated.

 

3" DOM steel from denny's driveshaft with 1350 joints... couldnt be happier. THey are his nitrous ready shafts and are unbreakable. IF you break it u get a new free one lol.

 

I've finally got around to doing the swap and I'm at the last step, engine turns on but does not stay on for more than 2 seconds I notice that fuel pump only primes while cranking and never when I turn to KEY ON, not to big on wiring so I'm sure I wired something wrong need help on solutions from you guys thanks!

 

No.
However not all 4L60E Transmissions are the same in regard to the Mount location, and the Tail-Housing length.
Two wheel drive versions are different from Four wheel drive versions (Tail-Housing vs Adapter-Housing, and Output-Shaft length are different).
I am not going to go over the Four wheel drive versions of the 4L60E unless you need me to.
Early versions of the 4L60E (1993-1997) are a different length, and have a different Mount location than the Late versions of the 4L60E (1997-2013).

For two wheel drive versions of the the 4L60E, there are:
-1993 - 1997 4L60Es that have a single casting for the Case and Bell-Housing. The mount can be attached at the back of the Case, or use a Tail-Housing with a location for a mount.



The Tail-Housing version on the Left of the image below has a location for a mount (However, if you are using a stock type of Torque-Arm, then you can ONLY use the version in the Middle of the image):



The image below shows both mounting locations (the Case location, and the Tail-Housing location) with NO mount installed:



-The 1997 and Newer (for LS Engines, Gen-3 and Gen-4 SBC) 4L60Es that have a two piece Case and Bell-Housing do not have a location on the Case for a Mount.
A mount can ONLY be installed on the Tail-Housing as in the image below: