That is the exact pass through I am using. I use the same style for a ground gang and a key on gang.

 

The Blue-Lines are the 12v Negative Power-Cables, and the Black-Stars are Chassis Ground Points.
The Diagram below shows how the 12v Negative Power-Cables should be layed-out:

 

Thats exactly how my current grounds are, with the exception of my alternator which is single wire. I also don't have a ground from block to battery, just block to chassis. I can add that.

 

In that layout the disconnect switch will isolate battery, but it won't work as an emergency kill switch. Alternator will continue to power the entire car until the engine is turned off.

If that meets your goals then that's fine. Just want to make sure you know how it will work.

 

In that case I'd assume you'd run the Alternator to the kill switch rather than the firewall pass through?

 

The Ground Cable from the Body of the Alternator, to the Battery is not REQUIRED.
I do recommend it anytime that it is within budget.

However, the Cylinder-Block to Battery Cable should always be done.

If you are ever going to add a New Bussed Electrical Center to a Vehicle...
Cooper-Bussmann/ Eaton produces some very nice Sealed/ Weather-Proof options:











These Bussed Electrical Centers all use Delphi Metri-Pack 280-Series Seals and Terminals.
I have used dozens of these at this point... They are great!

 

I don't know if it's track legal, but..... You could use the disconnect switch to kill power to the engine ECM and then the engine will immediately shut off and alternator will stop charging.

Otherwise, I'm guessing you would need a 2 pole switch with one side of the switch dedicated to cutting the alternator charging circuit. I've never thought out something like this in detail so there might be better ideas out there.

 

What NHRA wants in this situation is a Shut-OFF Switch with 4-Posts.

It operates like two separate Shut-OFF Switches (Switch-A, and Switch-B) that are turned-off by one Lever/ quarter-turn handle.
Two Positive Cables come from the Battery.
One Cable to Switch-A, and one to Switch-B.
There is no continuity between the Terminals for Switch-A and Switch-B.
The Starter connects to either side A or B...
The Alternator connects to the opposite side.

 

This is some excellent information. Saving to my project binders. If not already there compiling this into a best practice sticky would probably benefit a lot of non-sparkies other than me.

M

 

Seconded. Thanks guys for helping each other, and positing such useful information. I'm coming up on wiring myself, and this will be quite helpful.

 

As mentioned before I found my oil leak. When you take 20 years to build a car, documenting these little open ended items becomes critical. Replaced the ORB port with a solid ORB cap.



After the pointers made to me by qwk and Vortec, I have updated my wiring. I got rid of the Buss fuse and wired my alternator to the junction (knowing my kill switch won't work on this) and ran a ground from the block to the battery. I know its not ideal to run my other stuff off the junction, but I can change that later should it pose a risk. The biggest reason is key on power.

 

That is Great!

Definitely better!

The only small change that I would recommend (if possible)...
Move the PCM Ground connections from the Chassis-Ground, to a new Cable that connects to the Battery.

We generally do not want Electronics being powered by Cables (power or ground) that pass high current through them.
This is why separate Power and Ground cables that are connected to the Battery are always recommended (as seen even in Holley EFI instructions).

 

Excellent. I should be able to do that.

 

She runs again, long enough for me to get fuel pressure to 58psi but wont run much longer than that. Likely tune. Fuel pressure gage isnt reading so thats concerning. Gage is getting power and from the previous oil leak I know there is pressure. Maybe it takes a bit to get to the top rear of the block? No new leaks yet but by god is it loud!

 

Congrats!

Which location is the Oil-Pressure Sending-Unit receiving Oil from?
Is the Oil-Pressure Sending-Unit remote-mounted or directly-mounted?

 

Top rear of block. In OEM location. A few of my gages were wonky so I need to do some trouble shooting. My gage was getting 12v key on and this particular unit comes with a plug and play harness for the sending unit. Just need to supply a ground and power. My fuel gage was also non responsive but it could be because I have a gallon in there, 2 tops. Tach seemed to be accurate. Time for more tuning. Im sure the NW102 isn't playing well with the base tune and the DBW may be wonky because I haven't sent a 12v from brake switch to ecm yet.

The car also hadn't had a bath in years so I did the right thing and power washed the gunk off. Used some Adams matte detail spray on the engine bay.

 

Damn the Car look great!


Any new Progress?

I really like the look of those Oil/ Fluid Coolers, that you are using...
Are those Coolers from Earls/ Holley?
Is the smaller Cooler for Engine-Oil?

If so... Cooler-Hoses that are too small, or a standard-volume Engine Oil-Pump, or an Engine Oil-Filter that filters down to tiny particles (can be too restrictive)...
can slow down the build-up of Engine Oil-Pressure, when initially starting the Engine.

 

Both are earls coolers, the small being power steering and the larger engine oil. The oil is fed by -10an lines that come off the oil thermostat.

No real progress, just tiddying small things up. I've called around to the local dyno tuners but they are all booked way out. I'll keep pestering them. I'm also traveling for work quite a bit which sucks the progress right out of me. Car won't make it to this years power tour, but look out for next year!

 

Well, another 6 month update. Sloths move faster than me.

The car goes to the shop tomorrow to complete the exhaust (speed engineering dual 3"), install a 4 pt mild steel roll bar and get a base tune. The base tune will allow me to break in the motor, trans and brakes as well as debug and trouble shoot the millions of gremlins that await me. I will put some miles on it and do many shake down runs before final part throttle and WOT dyno tuning. From there, I plan on having this thing ready for the Hot Rod Power Tour to which I will immediately break something and or catch fire. My new old stock GM nose cover is on and fits great. I forgot how much of a pain it is to install a bumper cover on these cars. The aftermarket headlight chassis fits like garbage but I eventually got it to work.

 

Thanks for the update Shifty. I was re-reading your thread the other day and wondering

 

I'll get some new pics and specs soon. Im hoping to escalate progress this spring/summer. Work + small kids + kids activities + working wife = no camaro time. I just hope the 10 bolt survives the break in period. 9" on the horizon. And by that, I mean 2078.

 

I'm in the same boat. My goal this year is to have mine move under its own power... so I can get the siding redone on the garage without worrying about nails shooting through and damaging it. Slow progress is still progress I tell myself

 

Car is in the shop. New tires grabbed the inner corner of the fender flair and bent it a little. Other than that, more updates in a week or two.


Car looks funny in primer and missing ground fx. Proper camaro look.

 

Also was able to get the Improved racing oil thermostat mounted to the pan. This is a really well made piece and fits like a glove around the pan. I will be running the lines to the oil cooler in the next couple days.
I’m not sure if this will be relevant, but I had to make a heat shield between the oil cooler adapter and the header.




The heat from the header melted the inside of the cooler lines where the hoses attached to the fittings which created a minor mystery oil leak. It also melted the oil pressure gauge wire harness and the clamps, but that is another story. I hope this is helpful.

 

I'm really glad you shared this info. I have a 2 different cooler bypasses sitting on my desk right now and was scratching my head how this is ever going to work without all the stuff melting. I have even less clearance to header than you. Was considering selling it and going with a remote filter.

I'm maybe interested in the GM truck adapter but can't figure out what are the line sizes. I'd sure like to know if anybody can measure it (tube ID, not OD)

 

I remember you posting about that, and your shield looks perfect. There certainly isnt much room down there. Dod you have exceedingly high oil temps?

 

I’m not sure of the oil temp, but the adapter in the photo does not have a thermostat and I have a large cooler in front, so I’m more concerned about keeping the oil temp above 200* during highway cruise. QuikTrip has the 180* adapter that I originally had, but the header literally touched the aluminum housing, so I had to run the unit without the thermostat. It’s crazy how much heat mitigation that I had to perform on my car and I still had problems, but I think I have it under control now, which is why I wanted to give you a heads up. I love the fact that you are so close to cruising your car, it is absolutely beautiful.

 

I appreciate the kind words. I almost see the light at the end of the tunnel and its exciting to think I'll be able to drive it soon. The hot rod power tour is a LONG 2200 miles this year. In a normal car its just a lot of driving, in this thing it might be murder. The last time I drove this thing was in 2003. Not a typo.

 

2003....? Damn!

Congrats on the progress!

Enjoy!

 

I have a feeling I'll be driving your car one of the days and you'll have the Caddy.

 

Hopefully it won't be on fire. But....it probably will.

 

Couple updates here.

Rhodes roll bar with a few tweaks for fitment.



Mock up of the speed engineering exhaust is underway but we ordered some extra tubing to make some cuts to really get it tucked up under. Specifically the mufflers. They are not positioned correctly in these pics.

 

There ain't a thing much more miserable you could do with that car. LOL!

 

With those mufflers, your neighbors will hate you, and Harley riders will be jealous. I know this from personal experience.

 

I hope to join you some day on the Power Tour. It would be an epic road trip from Seattle round trip, a double homicide.

 

Truth!! Lucky for me, my neighbors already hate me. JK. I am worried about that. My old neighbor had a whipple mustang with basically straight exhaust. Insanely loud and would wake up my kids. I felt like an angry grandpa shaking my fist at the neighbors house. I will be running cats which should help a bit.

 

With the surge in affordability for modern designed Turbochargers...
I build very few Nitrous (only/ single power-adder) Engines...
As well as less than half the amount of Supercharged Engines, than I used to.

Everyone seems to want to go Turbocharged these days.


When I do get to build a Power-Train that uses a Supercharger...
The Headers for our Cars (Third-Gens) do not leave much room...



As the Image above (from soloc4) shows, the Engine Oil Filter can get cooked in the Stock location.
(BTW soloc4, very nice sheet Aluminum Shield)

I prefer to use a remote-mounted Engine Oil Filter, when using extremely HOT Headers that breathe FIRE via a Supercharger.
I also prefer to keep using a Cast Aluminum Engine Oil Pan with our Aluminum Cylinder-Blocks (The same goes for Trans Oil Pans).

So I normally use an Adapter on the Engine Oil Pan, like the Holley Part below:



This Adapter (Holley: #1179ERK) eliminates the Stock Oil Filter...
and provides -10AN IN/ OUT Ports.

I generally will use -10AN Lines for a Remote Filter and/ or Oil Cooler, with our Engines (especially with modified Oiling Systems) to keep Flow up.
1/2" or -8AN Lines would be okay for a totally stock 350 (No Oiling System changes/ stock Bearing clearances).

 

I actually have a remote earls filter but decided against it. I could still go with it but need to find some room. Agreed on the 10an lines. Thats what my oil system is running.

 

The exhaust system is routed and tacked into place. Final welding is happening today. The y-pipe is all hand cut and tig welded together. I changed some of the hangers to raise the exhaust up as far as it can reasonably go. I also, had them weld in V bands since the clamps and hangers that came in the kit were junk. All in all, I likely will be spending as much as the kooks dual kit for our cars. The only real issue will be when you lift the car, the rear will sag and lay on top of the exhaust. I don't know how much of a problem that is yet.

The other issue I ran into was the driveshaft length. I could not get the rear centered and did some measuring with the car on the lift. The LS1 driveshaft combined with the Tremec yoke and UMI placement of things, leaves it about 2 inches too long. I took it to a driveline shop on the other side of town and they are going to shorten it, and rebalance it. They are optimistic that it can be done since the stock LS1 aluminum driveshaft has a beefy lip inside the OEM weld. Mine also isn't very oxidized so they will give it a shot and should be able to reweld it up. Worst case is I have to buy a new shaft twice. Once now, and then whenever I ditch the 10 bolt. Base street tuning should happen next week. Then an all out blitz of 3583957385375 minor details to be ready for the road. And by that I mean, getting into it and driving on the power tour. What could go wrong?

Shop said they will weight my car when it gets off the lift. That should be interesting.

 

You routed exhaust under the axle?

Regarding driveshaft, stock 4th gen F-body length usually fits good. You triple sure you got the measurement right? I'll bet you're excited that it's getting close to moving on its own!

 

I should have elaborated. The over axle part is normal and won't hit there. I thinking the torque arm may bump into it. I will see once everything is bolted up in place. I was just using calibrated eye ball test and seeing it could be an issue. Hopefully not.

Both myself and their main fab guy measured and remeasured this morning. We took the drive shaft out which was bottomed out in the trans tail housing and the wheels were about 2" too far rearward (from being concentric with wheel opening). We centered the rear and then placed the yoke into the trans tail housing with 1.5" gap between the snout of the housing and the face of the u-joint. Tremec recommends 1.5" to 2.5" gap for proper articulation. The centerlines of both U-joints where off about 2". The magnum yoke end is far beefier than the stock LS1 yoke end. I bet most of the difference in length is due to that. Again, something simple costing me. This will be the most expensive "stock" 4th gen drivesahft.

 

Here are some final pics of it in the car. I went with Gesi G-Sport high flow cats and welded V bands. I also ditched, although they are really nice, quad tips that come with the kit and used generic turn downs I got off amazon. Lastly, they put the car on the scales. Interior is stripped sans driver seat and roll bar and the some of the ground effects and hood are not on the car. 3081lbs. Not bad. That means it should come in at 7,947lbs with me in it. jk.

 

How are the Stock 4thGen Prop-Shafts holding up for you guys?

I have never gotten one to last on Slicks...
They are like a ticking time-bomb.

 

It won't last, but the 10 bolt will break first. This is only to shake down the car and get break in miles on everything. I'll have a proper shaft and rear end at some point down the road. A buddy of mine uses it in his LS6 RS no problems. Granted only 400+ hp, but nothing exploded.

 

I have a steel 3" shaft with 31 spine yoke. It's stock length for 4th gen though. I don't have enough room for 3.5" aluminum.

 

I’m using a 3.5” aluminum drive shaft with 3150 u-joints that is 40” long. NW Driveshafts made mine and rated it for 650 ft/lb of torque. I believe this rating is due to the short length and therefore less longitudinal runout. Those are some nice welds on that stainless, you’ll find that the V-bands will be your lowest point of the exhaust. Mine in fact act as miniature skid plates. Congratulations on the great progress, you will be on the road very shortly.

 

Fablab update?

 

Don't you have your own car to worry about? Friends like these Gary....

 

When it's back and driving, I'll be curious if the catalytic converters you put on actually light off. Years ago I placed a cat in a similar location, though my pipes to get there were longer and had sharper turns (mine was after a Y, with stock manifolds and some interesting bends to get the pipes back in the middle). That cat reduced the emissions a little, but not enough to pass the sniffer test in Texas at the time. I had to relocate the cats a few feet closer to the engine to get them to light off. Ended up buying a pretty cheap infrared thermometer and could definitely tell the difference in temp of the cat after relocation.

I'm cheering for you, as that location would be about where I could put ones now Hoping the straight shot you have and slightly lesser pipe length may be enough!

 

Interesting that you say that because it echos my concerns as well. I don't have sniffer test here but I want them to do their job for smell and efficiency. This shop has used these cats before and have also done similar systems on 3rd gens, so fingers crossed. Worst case, i cut them out at some point and go Oh'naturale....