I've been reading and reading, is it unheard of to keep truck accessories and still clear the stock IROC-Z hood? I can't seem to find reliable answers, and 4th gens are drying up around me for me to salvage the accessories and mounts.

 

You can get a bracket from a number of different providers for the alternator to move it down and to the side. LSXinnovations, Dirty Dingo, etc all make brackets for moving things around. Maybe something like this would work https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1463

AC needs to be notched, but the older brackets may be problematic. Check this thread out, may answer all your questions.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-factory.html


I am actually about to swap in an ls3 pulled from a 2015 Camaro which are the same spacing as trucks. I am going to try to make these accessories work, and from what I can tell I should be able to. I will post details as I figure it out. These accessories already have a low mount alternator but the car had electric steering so I will be buying a LS1 power steering pump and using this spacer Truck Spacing Power Steering Bracket

 

It can be done without a/c for sure. This is an old pic from when I was trying to figure it out but it shows what it took. I made an idler relocation plate (ict billet sells the same thing I just copied it) and I had to use the factory third gen alternator (it’s smaller). It clears but barely.

If your broke, this works, but I fully plan to buy aftermarket brackets and mount an a/c compressor on the top passenger side just like a factory 3rd gen

 

we should add, you will also need a car intake for stock hood. The truck intake is too tall. When you switch to a car intake, you will also need to use a car water pump, as the truck water pump will not fit with a car intake.

To get a car water pump to line-up and work with your accessories, you can simply buy some spacers for any of those bracket companies.

 

Yes and no. The problem with the car intake and truck water pump if I remember right was the throttle cable/throttle body hitting the water pump “spout (?)”, I’m having a brain fart on correct word, but you can technically make it work with a small amount of trimming. I wish I had my pics off my old phone and I’d show you what I mean.

I ended up going with the car water pump because my truck pump was shot and I had a friend with a new in box f body pump he sold me for $40-$50 so I did use the spacer, car pump, and car intake.

 

No ac here, but this is the ICT Billet truck alternator relocation kit. It was about $100 - $150 they probably have something for ac also. This uses the truck balancer and would require the above mentioned spacers, they are included with the kit. To avoid the spacers I swapped a truck pulley onto a car water pump. The car and older truck water pump housings are the same, it is the outlet that is different. The truck outlet comes out of the top and the car outlet come out of the front.

 

I'm using the truck pulley spacing in my swap, and I got the truck A/C compressor to fit in the stock location with a stretch fit belt.

See here: Sorry, I don't feel like reposting all of the pictures.

I used a Goatbuilt (TM) passenger side alternator bracket with it's own tensioner. I had to use this, because the ICT Billet piece wouldn't clear the DBW Throttle Body motor.

 

I was able to use the truck a/c pump and bracket in the original truck a/c location using the Hooker Blackheart mounts. The steering arm clears both the pump and the bracket by about 1/8" at full lock but I am using ICT 4th gen solid motor mounts. I may be doing a little clearancing just for my own piece of mind but those not using solid mounts would definitely wanna do some trimming to both the lower front pump bolt boss and the truck bracket.