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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I've seen a lot of wiring questions asked and answered for various fuel injected combinations, but almost none for carb'd swaps.
I have an 85 Z28 with a 2005 LM7 out of a Tahoe.
I found this diagram for the 2005 Tahoe Alt.
Am I correct in thinking that pin B+S is constant 12v from the battery, pin F is load sensing/signal on when to charge, and pin L is switched 12v?
Obviously switched 12v is from the key and constant 12v is from the battery.
I believe the factory setup has a fusible link inline to the constant 12v that's also for the fans. I'm going to run the fans on their own circuit on my car, so can I just run a 100a inline fuse on the wire from the battery?
On a carb set up with no PCM/Generator Battery Control Module, what controls load sensing/tells is when to charge?
And I know the C100 block on my firewall has a purple wire for the starter, does that go direct to the starter and then from the starter there's a wire to the battery?
Thanks in advance, i really appreciate any help on this. 2005 Tahoe Alternator Wiring
Are you using the AD244 Alternator?
...with the 4-Pin Connector that is on the far right of the image below:
It's actually none of those, its this one.
But because this alternator is old and I don't know what condition it's in, I think it would be good to switch to the 4 connector/1 wire alt (far right).
I am going to just assume that you are using the AD244 Alternator with the Connector on the far Right of that Image.
There are multiple configurations for this Alternator...
I would recommend the following:
-The S-Terminal (letter D on the Connector) connected to B+.
-The L-Terminal (letter B on the Connector) connected to Ignition/ switched B+ through a 1/2 Watt 470 Ohm Resistor.
You have a DR44 Alternator... it is newer than the AD244.
Yes, I would recommend going to the AD244 Alternator if you are not comfortable with de-soldering the 2-Pin Voltage Regulator...
and soldering on the 4-Pin Voltage Regulator.
Ok so I also asked a friend this question and basically it was explained to me that the purple wire off the c100 block goes to one of posts on the starter, the other post on the starter goes to the positive battery post, the positive battery post goes to the charging post on the alternator, and the single wire off the alternator goes to switched 12v.
Is this fairly accurate? And if so, do I need any fuses on this circuit?
Ok so I also asked a friend this question and basically it was explained to me that the purple wire off the c100 block goes to one of posts on the starter, the other post on the starter goes to the positive battery post, the positive battery post goes to the charging post on the alternator, and the single wire off the alternator goes to switched 12v.
Is this fairly accurate? And if so, do I need any fuses on this circuit?
The 10AWG Purple Wire is the Starter Solenoid Wire to Crank the Engine.
The Other Red Wires are simply being passed 12V+ from the Battery.
Modern Vehicles have these Wires connected to the Battery instead (with Power distribution/ fusing).
Old Vehicles had to use Fusible-Links.
The heavy gauge Wire on the Alternator goes to the Battery 12V+.
Any other small Wire on the Alternator will vary depending on Alternator model and vehicle being used.
-The 10AWG Purple Wire at the Starter Solenoid = No Fusible-Link.
-The One Large Cable from the Battery to the Starter-Motor = No Fusible-Link.
-The One Cable from the Battery to the Alternator = Yes Fusible-Link (relative to Alternator Output and Cable size).
-The 10AWG Red Wires at the Starter-Motor = Yes Fusible-Links.
11-23-2021, 12:54 PM
