I want to Build/ take on you Electrical Projects!

What ever your Electrical needs are for your 3rd-Gen...

I am a Professional in the Field, and...
I wan to help you and take on your Project.

I offer all Electrical Parts at or near Cost, I Beat-Out Mouser.com almost every time.
Ask @QwkTrip He will tell you the same (He is my main Reference).

Tell me what you want/ need and I will design/ create/ build what you need from scratch using the most modern techniques and Materials.
You choose how high-end or low-end the build will be based on your budget.

I will take on the most basic projects, like new Battery Cables!
Or a Mini Sealed Fuse and Relay Center to add on Fog-Lights or an Electric Fuel-Pump.

I will also do the opposite, and Take on Massive Projects!
Or I will do anything in between very small Projects to very large Projects.
Large Projects could be an LSx Swap Harness, or new Fuse and Relay Panel (Power Distribution Ceter/ Unit, PDC/ PDU/ UBEC/ IPBEC).
Anything at all!
I'll take on the Project!

Post here what you would like!

 

Have been kicking around the idea of going with a 411pcm/coil on plug style setup in my 89 formula. Any way to do that, keep the 700r4 lockup (i have a nice one) and be able to upgrade to a 4l60e later?
basically looking for a drop in harness (computer under dash)

 

You would need to have a 0411 PCM for a Manual Transmission or have one for an Automatic Transmission reflashed for a Manual Transmission.
You also need a Modern Output Speed Sensor.

How do you want the Engine Wiring to pass through the Fire-Wall?

Then control the THM700-R4 with a 4th-Gear Pressure Switch, Brake-Pedal Switch, and Vacuum Switch...
This will allow Lock-Up in 4th-Gear and the Apply/ Release will be automatically controlled.

What are you doing for (24x) cam and crank speed sensors?
Type of Ignition Coils?

 

I know not engine swap related, What's the latest on a power window relay harness? The thread below kinda turned into a non f-body subject.
the dreaded power window problem - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

 

I can do Power Window Wiring.
They are build to order, payment upfront for anything build to order.

But right now I don't think the cost is worth it (even if I make zero profit).

How do you want the wiring done... Relays and fuses? ...voltage bumped for faster window speed?

I mentioned more in that other thread.

 

Wiring pass through in stock location, the cam and crank setup would probably come from EFi connection. LS/truck type coil?

 

The Stock location would be through the Passenger-Side Fender Opening...

You would have to remove the Permanent Wiring-Harness Pass-Through from behind the Kick-Panel (Shown below):



Then install a new Sealed Bulk-Head.
@QwkTrip just did this very thing for his Holley EFI System.
Image from his Project shown below:


Here is a Hyper-Link to his Thread, where he is working on this (Start at Post #1853):


Otherwise, what you are looking to do is very simple.
You will need a small Location picked out for a small sealed Fuse and Relay Center.
It can be done inside the Car (if you still have space after the PCM is installed) or under the Hood.

My Power Distribution Systems are Modular...
So this is also the perfect opportunity to have an electrical accessories Powered:

-Low Speed/ High Speed Dual Electric Fans, like on a stock 4th-Gen.
-Upgraded Fuel Pump.
-HID Lighting.
-Etc.

Like I said the Power Distribution System is Modular, and I also can install Break-Out Connectors (12v+, Ignition, Ground, 5v Ref, Sensor Ground, Etc) for adding things in the future very easily...
Since I'm giving you a Connection with all these Circuits that can be tapped into.
As well as Power or Ground Buss-Bar Connections!

There is so much that can be done, like...
-Install Theft-Deterrent Circuits for the Power Circuit for the Ignition Coils, or the Starter-Motor Crank Circuit
(Recently discussed here):

 

So are we ready to start figuring out the details for this?

I am holding an Project Assignment opening for you, so that I can start on it right away and order any Parts that I don't have in stock.

Otherwise I have to take the next person waiting.

 

Don't let me hold you up, take the next person.
ill get my wish list in order and get back with you when my ducks are more in a row!
thanks !

I have spare factory harness pass-throughs to use when that time comes. Would also like the ob2 port to be in my cars stock location.

 

Placing the OBD-2 Port/ Connection where the Original ALDL Port/ Connection is very easy to do (something I have done for many Third-Gens).


However...
What are you planing to do with the Spare Harness Pass-Through?
Are you wanting to repurpose the existing wiring that has been Mashed and Glued Together in the Pass-Through?


It could be done, but it would make things more difficult in terms of having enough of a particular wire in a particular Gauge...
As well as Wire Colors having to be repurposed as different Wire Color assignments...
It would just be a mess, and create more work than necessary.

An Aftermarket Bulk-Head Connector from Delphi, Deutsch, or Amphenol would make things much easier.
@QwkTrip used a relatively small Deutsch Bulk-Head Connector (Because it fits well in this location)...
It worked out very well, as in his Thread, Posts, and Videos.

 

I think people are having a hard time grasping that you're now retired and basically doing this as hobby & entertainment (parts at cost and little labor charges).

Honestly, people should act quick before you come to your senses and change your mind!

 

I have factory pass throughs that are clean and ready for new wiring.. now i just have to find them. 😒
the end goal is factory 80-90s appearance and function.
boring, i know..

 

@TTOP350 , curious what are you going to use for potting to water proof the stock pass-thru?

 

I am going to charge "Something" for a Labor Charge/ Fee on certain things...
But it's going to be Peanuts in reality, compared to what I would be charging if I were still in Business.

Yes, the Parts will be at COST...
And that means significantly less expensive than purchasing any of these Parts/ Components at Retail.

But Yes, Overall I am making these offers as Free or as Cheap as relatively possible!

 

That is actually rather interesting, to have the Thermo-Plastic Body/ Shell Pieces of the Pass-Through (Hopefully very well cleaned-up).


But, as something that is behind the Interior Trim (Hush-Panel and Kick-Panel) and behind the Fender...
The Pass-Through goes unseen by everyone.

You would benefit further by an actual Sealed Bulk-Head.
As long as you fully understand that, I am happy to complete this any way that you choose.

 

Sorry, fixed my post!

 

Im working to come up with what i need for my car.... hoping to have some kind of an idea on how to go about things and will be getting with you on it soon.

 

Stay out of the rain? Lol.
Honestly haven't thought about it much but it shouldn'tbe that hard to figure out.

 

Anyone need any Radio Wiring...?

I just did a Radio Swap for a different GM Radio and Line Output Adapter from SMD (BLING BLING) for Subs in my daily driver.

 

Could you make a firewall forward from the main bulkhead kit that basically gives you all new wiring for everything under the hood and incorporate the required LS swap wiring into it?

 

The Original Fire-Wall Bulk-Head does not have enough Terminals available for all the Wires required in a LSx Swap Harness.

I can Provide an Aftermarket Bulk-Head Connector that would do what your asking... but the Original Bulk-Head Connector can not support this.

 

Ok I am dumb when it comes to this. What exactly does this harness do?

 

This Harness converted my GM Daily Driver Wiring from a GM Radio with CD Player...

To a GM Radio with CD Changer, Factory Aux Port, and RCA Pre-Outs for Amplifiers/ Subwoofers.

 

Anyone like my 8AWG Custom Twisted-Pair Speaker-Wire for Sub-Woofers:



Sealed in a Clear Sleeve and perfectly round...

Uses TE/ Raychem Boots to Seal Off the Sleeve, and access the Two 8AWG Conductors.

Each Conductor is Finished with a Crimped-On Wire-Ferrule, Held with Black TE/ Raychem SCL Heat-Shrink.

 

Hey,
VortecIroc
I need a C100 harness really bad. my car did not come with one. The car is a 1987 Camaro Iroc-Z 305 TPI with the 5 Speed manual. I've swapped in a 2001 5.3 with a T-56 from a 2000 Camaro. What I'm looking for in the new C100 harness is alternator, battery, starter, oil psi, temp guage, volt gauge, and wiper motor, I'm running heat with an a/c delete heater box. I'd like to make this as simple as possible. I'm running the aeromotive 340 fuel pump with there 30 amp harness. Also wondering the best way to wire the fans? I've ordered a terminator x max but its months out. I also bought the 6014 msd box and edelbrock intake. I plan on running it until the terminator x comes. Can you build me a harness like this? whats the turnaround time and the cost?

 

I can build you all of that, and anything else you would like.

The MSD Model 6014 uses Modern GM/ Delphi Sealed Connectors that I stock.
I can do all that you mentioned with the C100 Bulk-Head!
I need to know which Model Alternator you are using, and if I have to install a Resistor for the Voltage Regulator.

I always recommend Converting to a starter Motor Circuit with a Relay to get the highest cranking Voltage possible.

Fans, fuel Pumps, ETC... I build a Sealed Fuse and Relay Center for you to mount somewhere Under the hood.

I can make your battery Cables and Alternator Cables as well.

I give all the Forum Members all Parts at COST (way cheaper than Retail Pricing).
So I am the cheapest option for the highest quality that you can get. PERIOD.
PM me all of your details... we will go from there!

 

So I'm still learning how to use this site so its hard for me to navigate and communicate, but Id like to get the process started asap. Can you email me or call me so we can talk the details? How do I figure out which alternator I have? I just got one at O'reilys for a 2001 Silverado if I remember correctly. I can provide pictures of alternator if that helps. I definitely think doing the starter motor circuit with relay is a good idea.
every thing sounds great. Lets get this thing started. Can you private message me your email or phone number. like I said I'm still learning to navigate the site.
Thanks,
Stefan

 

Heres a little something Id like to have:

Id like for there to be a way to increase the HVAC fan speed on my 91 TA Vert. Even with a new fan motor and squirrel cage, (Delco OEM,) "MAX" still doesnt push enough air in comparison to my 94 TA Vert.

My AC is charged to perfection, (still R12,) but driving home from work today in 105 degree central Texas heat i almost melted from lack of "forced air."

I do realize the car was heat soaked......but....

Is there anything that can be done? Upping the fan voltage, maybe, if the fan can take it?

Thanks!
Jeff

 

Yes!
I can have a Voltage Booster Device operate on the "HI" Speed Setting...

BUT BE WARNED!!!!

Melted components occur in Factory Arrangements.
I would have to Build an EXTREMELY ROBUST CIRCUIT (Where every component is "Over-Kill"/ Over-Rated in terms of Ampacity)...

And I would still expect Melted Components in time!

 

I will send you send you a Private Message.

 

Thanks for your quick and honest response....
Perhaps you can help further....

I would love to have faster fan speed, however not with the possibility of melted wiring, fried circuits and melting components. I'm melting enough. It's going to be 107 here today.

At first I envisioned something significantly simpler, like installing a 4th Gen Fan (like from my 94 TA Vert,) assembly in my 3rd Gen car......because as I said, the difference in speed is night and day, and I'm thinking maybe the 94 fan spins at a higher RPM.

The problem is that I cannot find any specs on any of the fans, nor can I find what the RPMs are at a given voltage. If it was a possibility, I'm sure I could make it fit physically....

Rock Auto shows the following:

94:
1581104 @ $72.00
1580467 @ $280.00

91:
1580182 @ $45.00 (This is what I installed about a year ago.)
1580166 @ $45.00

I might be willing to spend $72 for trial and error, but not $280. LOL!

My final option would be to just use the 94 TA Vert or my Silverado Crew in this oppressive heat, as I only use either car about once a week anyway.

Thanks again!

Jeff

 

Thank you!


I do not have any experience with these other HVAC Blower-Motor Fans...
If you figure out something as far as a HVAC Blower-Motor Fan, I'd be more than happy to determine the Wiring needs, and discuss a Wiring Solution for you!

 

Some more Car Audio Project Wiring Updates:

 

Below are Images of HIDs from GM/ HUMVEE (Mil-Spec, NOT the HUMMER Versions)...
A few Sets of these are currently being Assembled for some Customers, and Though everyone should check them out!


Most of you all seem LED Crazy for Headlamps...
But NOTHING beats a High-Quality Set of HIDs (They even draw less Amperage than our Stock Sealed Beams!
The High-Beam HIDs draw less Amperage than Our OEM Low-Beam Sealed-Beam Headlamps!


The Image below shows the typical Harness with the Ballast Enclosure and the separate Exciter/ Igniter Enclosure for the Arc-Tube (High Voltage/ 15,000 Volt Plasma-Arc inside a Sodium Filled High-Pressure Tube/ Canister):



Next is the GM/ HUMVEE (Mili-Spec, NOT the HUMMER) HID Harness with the Fully-Potted Single Enclosure for both the Ballast and the Exciter/ Igniter.
The HID Harness has been ReDressed by Myself...
and the Bottom HID Harness is Stock/ just as is, "Out of the Box":



Just some Close-Ups of my HID Harness (ReDressed):

 

hey brotha how it going,,, i have a project that i need done. Im currently swapping a 1989 camaro into a Ls3 with a 4l80e behind it. I have purchased a terminator x max with transmission control. HOWEVER, im not exactly sure what i need to keep/modify from any of my c100 and c207 harness. Are you familiar with these type projects>?

 

I can give you Information to help yourself in this Project.

I have been and continue to have been having Brain Aneurysms followed by Strokes... Over and Over again.
I have spent more time in a Hospital than outside of one for the last 3 Months.

So I am very limited to what I can and can't do.
I can't even remember Passwords for most of my accounts (like banking, email, the GM Engineering Database, Etc).
I have no use of my left Hand/ Forearm (Paralyzed/ Numb).

So I can ONLY offer you some assistance here.

You will need to keep the C100 Wiring for the Ignition-Switch, Headlamp-Switch, and Fuse Panel/ Power Distribution.
Also if you are using any of the Original Instrument Panel Cluster (Stock Gauges, Indicator Lights, Etc)...
There are additional Wires also needed.

For C207, if you have an aftermarket Fuel Pump and Wiring, thats good... Just the OEM Speedometer possibly (if your using it).

I need to go Pull out MY 1989 Manual out of storage, since I usually log into the GM Engineering Database.