No hard feelings here brothers.

 

yeah 68 had it right, i thought you you were saying my car is just worth $300 how it sits now, hence why i took it the wrong way, i know what your talking about now though so its fine

 

got my driver side window sweep in today....P..I..T..A!!!!!!!!!! i dropped so many of those little screws into the door its unbeileveable, that and i broke my little rubber bumb stop rolling down the window all the way but its worth it, makes the car look ALOT better and a plus.... NO MORE RATTLE!! YAY when i shut that door and it sounded solid i almosted clapsed on the ground!! sounds amazing, i stood outside in the rain just opening and shutting my door for about 5 minutes, i havent turned the bass on my subs yet though, but i think that will eleminate alot of that rattle there too!! im happy and it looks good, doing the passenger side tomorrow, also i replaced one vacum line, from the charcoal canister since it was leaking, my cars still kinda hard to start warm but she runs ALOT smoother and alot quieter, i have a rattle type sound from under the car though, sounds like exhaust maybe? but i just had the exhaust done in december, well the intermidiate pipe and muffler but still wow

 

well got my new sweeps on, looks better that the old ones, makes the car look a whole lot newer aswell, went to zone and got new wiperblades and gloss black spray paint for my wiper arms and antenna when i saw seafoam, iv been looking and reading about this stuff for awhile so i picked up a bottle, went home ( btw had my subs pounding hard to some def leppard on the way home, no rattles besides my door handles alittle bit and my license plate xD so im happy) well i got home and ran that seafoam through my brake booster vacum line and DUDE i got alot of smoke coming from behind my engine!!!! i thought my car caught on fire!! my cab filled with smoke and it was pouring out from behind my engine...well after i let her sit for 5 minutes and restarted shes idleing alittle low and shes knocking , i think either i have a valve sticking or an injector on the way out....its on the driver side between cylineders 1 and 3 im hoping my valve just got stuck and will float back up...also iv got an exhaust leak already...my step dad said its my doghnut gasket?

 

yeah, i hope your knock straightens out... I seafoamed my car, and it smoked a LONG time, but nothing bad happened at the end of it

and yeah, I had a lot of smoke from the donut too... passenger side

 

yeah my smoke was front the passenger side... iv heard that knock before but now its just worse i think.....i hope its an injector but then again i just bought those damn things...how much is it to replace a donut gasket?

 

dont like or approve seafoam and thats what can happen when you dont do it right or use to much.some cars have a ceramic kinda like porcelain o-ring were the manifold meets the exhaust pipe.but on the third gen v6's i almost always find a broken exhaust manifold stud.....goodluck

 

not much, but the first thing I would do would be to first... spray the area with PB nut blaster, let it sit... repeat several times


get under the car with a LONG extension on a breakover, and try to tighten up the nut yourself. You may be able to give it a turn or two yourself.

 

got a picture of this?? aslo where is it located? because i had the exhaust done from my cat back so if its between there its going back to the exhaust shop

 

it's where your exhaust manifold meets the start of your crossover pipe. before the cat
no pics, sorry, but the best place to get to it is from under the car

or, just drive down to the exhaust shop and ask the guys if they will change your donut. chances are they'll offer to try to tighten what you've got first, ot see if it helps

 

okay ill do that, i need to go up there anyways cause im gonna have cowboy duals put on my car...

 

there you go!

hope your engine is ok

 

me too....althought if she blows she blows....shes got over 230K on her....ill probably rebuild the 2.8

 

I would find a running 3.4 if I were you. They should be plentiful around Indianapolis. And it is a direct swap.

 

wireing harness isnt though

 

Dude that sucks! On a lighter note, I was just blasting the leppard in my new car last night as a matter of fact. I got all the way through High N' Dry and part way through Hysteria

 

umm... all you have to do is change your fan switch otherwise your using all of the top parts of your orginal motor no need to change the harness.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/swapboogie read up young grasshopper

 

Car's lookin' good, you've come a long way since you picked it up, and in just a short time.

Speaking of seafoam, my dad's been on me for years to put a can of it in my 150k mile Camaro and I've always resisted. I feel like I should leave well enough alone, but I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't give it a try though...

 

more detail on this please

 

Seafoam did wonders for my old IROC... Had 170k

 

thank you, i wanna get her ready before i start driving to school in auguest, that seafoam and replacing 1 vacum line helped ALOT, my idles not jumpy anymore, i have smoother take offs, shes running alot better and quieter besides that one knock.... i hope its an injector because i have 2 sets out in the garage, the original 2.8 and another set of 3.1s...im gonna take the car up soon to the exhaust shop to see what he says, he normally gives me good prices, he did my intermidiate pipe and reinstalled my muffler and tailpipe and put in new exhuast hangers for $100 even, i like seafoam, got alot of smoke, just from the wrong end LOL, scared the living **** out of me seeing all that smoke pour out from the back of my engine, i was about to grab a fire ex. lol, probably take the car up to the shop after tuesday so i get my new windsheild replaced then im gonna run the rest of my seafoam through my gastank to see if it will help that injector( if it is, keep your fingers crossed).

 

read posted thread.....6 times, itll make sense

 

on my 1st read through it makes sence but im gonna pull my covers first and make sure all my valves are tight and my pushrods are straight before i get a new engine...

 

new windsheilds in, looks good must say i like it, although the safelite guy almost gave me a heartattack and also pissed me off at the same time

 

well car may be up for sale here soon, if thats a rod knocking im gonna try and trade it for a 70-73 z28...

 

dont sell it or trade it put a motor in and keep it.

 

i dont know what im gonna do...that damn knock only comes when the cars idleing low or when its coming back down from WOT...if its idleing high or im moving i dont hear it...i dont hear it till i open the hood...

 

Like I said pull a running 3.4L and put in it. If you don't wanna do that try and trade it off or sell it.

 

i cant get anyone on this site to tell me an exact answer on it, i have it narrowed down

 

i hope you figure it out

btw, have you priced 70-73 Z28's? Even the basket case version of those are major bucks. I think all 2nd gens are getting overpriced. $3000 79 Z28's without engines are common here

 

i can find them around here pretty cheap, i found a 77 here with a 350/ 350T for $700 but bumbers gone and it needs love

 

yeah, big difference in demand for a 70-73 and the big bumper cars of 74-77

 

yeah sadly i know, im still gonna keep looking thought for a 70-73, mark can i get your input on my thread in the v6 forum? its titled engine knock?

 

i'll try... but it's not my level of experience

 

oh, never mind then, im just trying to get peoples help that i trust lol, dan thinks my rods about to blow on cylinder 4...

 

I don't know if this is the same thing but my son's car does something similar, he has a 2001 Chevy Lumina with a 3.1V6 and it sounds like like it's going to throw a rod out of the block on start up and it keeps knocking like that until it warms up , but only then does it get a little quieter but still knocks. They say it's piston slap (common with the 3.1) and I'm going along with it because when we bought it had 51,000 on it and now it has 120,000 miles on it and it runs great and gets great mileage. Like I said this is my experience but with a 3.1 not a 2.8. You might try www.60dgreev6.com, they seem to know what there talking about on the the V6's over there (not that these people don't, but that's where I got my info on his car anyway). Good luck.

Mark.


PS. www.thirdgen.org is the first place I would come to now but I didnt have a Camaro when we bought his car.

 

BTW if this car is Sentimental to you like you said then don't sell it!!!!! You will regret it(trust me I know) You wont get a decent 2nd gen any year for what you have in this car. My 2 cents.

Mark

 

its a rod, here comes the 3.4, i need anyone in here that has done this swap, i need help on it, if you guys followed a certain thread let me see it please!!, i can get an engine for $300 out of a junkyard

 

in a weird way I'm kind of happy for you. the 3.4 swap is a great upgrade. I know the timing sucks, but I'm actually looking forward to the day my engine dies so I have an excuse to do it too

just follow the stickies, you'll be fine

 

stickys? also is that junkyard engine gonna be okay?, $300 isnt bad for that engine is it?

 

the stickies are at the top of the V6 forum... all the swap info is there

$300 is a good price.. IF you have any idea it's a good engine. personally if it was me, I would get a remanufactured short block, but that's like three times the money

 

Yeah, a second-gen from '70-'73 is going to cost you $10k-$15k for a beat one, $25k+ for a nice one. Your battered rod is going to be cheaper to stick with no matter what you do.

Don't waste your time with a crappy 3.4, if you are going to go through the hassle of a swap, just do a V8 swap once and be done with it.

 

i want to keep the v6

 

Why?

 

Doesnt matter why he wants to keep it...

If it were me, Id get the jyard 3.4, tear it down, have it checked at a competent machine shop and do a fresh rebuild the short block with new rings, gaskets, and such. and then bolt the top end off your 2.8 after having the heads and valves and all that checked (probably a good idea to take it to the same machine shop) to make sure theyre in good order. Then the 3.4 will drop right back in place of the 2.8.

 

Before you even take the engine from the junkyard pull the valve covers and see what color the oil is. If it's white in color don't bother. If the oil is dark like it should be go ahead and take it. If it were me I would get a gasket set and replace all the gaskets. And also replace the pcv valves even if they don't look clogged up. When it's in and running keep an eye on you're gauges especially temp and oil pressure. If the temp is high check your water pump ect. I've done plenty of swaps but only two were v6s. Most importantly have fun with it it's your car. Also like you have said before the are a lot of good resourceful people on this site willing to help.

 

Beat me to it haha

 

And yea, by rebuilding the short block, I was basically suggesting all new gaskets....Youd need new gaskets for the top end when you moved your stuff over as well.

 

yeah, the move to a V8 is much more complicated than most people realize. Off the top of my head, here's the things that have to be changed

Fully equipped long block, down to every sensor
ECM
Tach
Wiring harness
Transmission
motor mounts
Springs


Here's what has to change from going to a 2.8 to a 3.4

Short block


yeah, it's a no brainer. Keep the V6, and if he ever wants a V8, buy a car that already has one