but besides the carb i have to deal with the lines, the fuel pump, the line pressure, ect, then there is the computer and all the extra wireing id have to do to try and figure everything out.... idk its still really early guys lol ill decide on something eventually

 

No idea of what kind of $$ you are working with but I'd suggest looking through the archives and see what it takes to actually achieve that goal, aside from actually building an engine to put out those kind of numbers you need to ungrade everything else to handle it. Also do you mean flywheel hp or rearwheel hp? Regardless of if you decide to go FI or carbed you will be changing everything anyway so the cheapest way to go would be carbed. If you are looking to go injected what type of setup to you plan on running? Obviously the current drivetrain and related harness and ECU will need to be replaced. Assuming with that engine you also got the nessicary engine harness along with the pcm and trans controller, you could sell them to slightly offset your cost with the parts you will be needing to swap your new powertrain into your car regarless of choice as they won't be of any use to you. Afterkmarket FI can get very expensive very fast, your best if you want to stay FI may be to sell everything except the short block (or keep the heads and run them for now) and convert to a 4thgen f-body intake, pcm, accessories, harness, trans etc get it running and go from there. That would leave you very short of your powergoals, but unless cost isn't a factor you need to get realistic..

 

the money will eventually change, as you can see rom my car build it really varys from time to time but as iv stated in my earlier posts its going to be around 2-5 years that im going to be building this engine and installing it, unless something happens that i have to drop it in fast( cough cough this v6 blowing its top lol) but if i go a different route with an intake and could do what i want to do with it i would go lt1 intake and heads but i dont think i can do that since the heads are reverse cooling. but my 400-450 hp range is rhp and i know im going to have to change alot to get there and to be able to withstand the abuse of the new power, im already looking at dana rear ends and new posi fourth gen rears, iv got to get new moog springs for the front and new motor mounts and iv got to get a new harness since my buddy needed it to install his 5.3 in the suburban. right now the parts i need for this engine to be fully complete is a flywheel, dizzy, wireing harness, rest of the intake and thats it for the motor, then i need to find a transmission, and from the looks of it i think i just snagged a 700R4 thats a trans go shift kit.

 

The fact is you are talking about swapping a vortec 350 in. To support that assuming you wanted to go full stock you would at the very least need to replace the engine harness, the ECU/pcm, then decide what you are doing with the trans... if you want a hood on you car and accesories that fit under said hood ( as well as an intake ) the truck parts will not work, nor will the parts that are already there. Even then you will be running new fuel lines and new wiring cause the factory wiring wouldnt even come close to working.. I can tell you the honest truth in what your best and simplest course + cheapest of action would be. Swap in the engine as a long block, install vortec performer rpm intake w/ a holley 650 with vaccum secandaries, a vac advance dist, and a 700r4. Sure you will still need new accessories brackets and new accessories, not to mention a new flexplate and converter, and a return style regulator to work with your current fuel lines and pump, aside from that you wont need to spend much $$ and won't need a new harness and could honestly eliminate a lot of the old v6 one, but everything you need to run it is already there!.. do some searches... just trying to lead you down the path I wish someone did for me when I was in your shoes back when I was your age... No matter one don't let anybody put you down or tell u that you are fool for trying.. just read on 3rd gen and learn.. and do it! best of luck!

 

okay so if i went with the said intake set up, i couldnt use a factory distributor for the engine now could i? because its not a vacuum advance dizzy right?

 

stock dizzy go to autozone and get one, or hit up a yard, the pulleys well i know march pulley systems makes some awesome stuff

 

reason i ask about the stock dizzy is because i just placed a bid on a stock one, and im in the process of ordering a MAC underdrive pully set aswell

 

But what im asking is can I use the stock with the rpm intake and holly 650 carb? But something else I need to address is thr flywheel, can I use a 5.7 flywheel or does it have to be specific?

 

Im not sure what you mean? a carb requires no computer and there is no extra wiring. Easiest thing is a HEI distributor and then all you need to do Is hook up the new wire for your tach.

as far as fuel lines you have two options. Use an inline electric pump and your lines are fine where they are, just run one up to the carb, or get a block with a spot for a mech pump and run your lines to the right side of the car instead of the left.

 

Am I the only person who's gonna chime in and tell him he needs to slow down and get your priorities right and do plenty of research before you just go buying everything you think is gonna make your car cool. I've never heard anyone else say hey, even though I haven't had this engine in my car very long and it's still got some kinks to work out, I think I'll just throw a larger, more complicated engine in it that wasn't meant to ever work in this car. And on top of that, even though i have limited funds and mechanical experience, I think I'll totally rebuild the engine and throw in a bunch of cool performance parts before I ever even make sure I have the resources to be able to put it in the car in the first place, all in my daily driver. Look bud, I'm not trying to mean or hinder your passion and excitement you have for doing all this, but slow down and make well researched and informed decisions before doing all of this stuff. You'll come out better off in the long run. I know you feel like the v6 is nothing but problems, but I can assure you a leaky seal is a lot easier to deal with than a complete drive train and harness swap in your position.

 

I feel Like only a few people are reading my posts and what I'm saying, this engine is going be sitting for years while I'm building it, in the mean time of breaking it down, rebuilding it and tossing parts at it I'm going to be studying what others have done, see what I need and what can and will work and will be the most headache free. The only reason I'm buying some of the stuff I am now is because they are cheap and I can either flip them and sell them for a profit or for something I need or I can use them on thr engine, like the under drive pully.

 

Got my flywheel and computer today, and it looks like I won the auction for the distributor

Oh and the rest of the intake

 

valid point, i wouldn't do anything risky on my dd, unless i had another dd waiting in the wings, or already as my dd in which point my car would become my project

 

also might add, think i said something about this earlier in the thread but im also looking for a dodge ram 1500 which will become the DD when i decide to do this swap....

 

i need the trucks ECU right?

 

also do i need a 96 suburban harness or can i use any 5.7 harness?

 

depends you gonna go fi, or carb?

 

Carb

 

No, as stated before the truck parts are almost all competely useless unless this is going in a truck, the entire fuel injection setup (intake, wiring, pcm, etc) is completely and utterly useless as is the distributor to go with it. Same goes for the accessories. Stop buying stuff that is useless... truck parts are a dime a dozen since most fo the time people only want then engine... Like in your case..
All you need is the engine itself. After that you will need f-body specific accessories and brackets. The easiest way to get running is to go with a carbd manifold like the rpm intake (which is a tight fit under a factory hood but very doable) after that get a nice easy to work with carb like a holly 650 with vaccum secondaries and your basic non computer controlled, vaccum advanced hei dist. Aside from that you need to decide what to do about your fuel system, the easiest way is to keep what you already have and install a 3port regulator to drop the pressure down and send the unnessicary volume back to the tank. If you do it that way you don't need any type of computer or new wiring harness since all the wires to run it are already there. When I did the same swap years ago I simply eliminated wires I no longer needed from the origional v6 harness and ran the carb 350 off the wires I already had.. don't go over thinking things..

 

Any knowledge on the flywheel? Can I use the trucks or do I need a thirdgen specific one? Also current on thr v6, how can you tell if your TV cable is going bad? Because if I drive thr car any longer than 30 minutes the tv cable comes out of adjustment and I have to readjust it.

 

Just read through, you may want to read all the tech forums on other peoples swaps before you spend a lot of cash on stuff you will never use. I am all for the learning proccess and even the curve, but you may be way out beyond where you should be for your first project, either way good luck.

 

Any ideas on the tv cable?

 

Buy a new cable if it's coming out of adjustment.

 

could that also be whats leaking instead of that re main seal?

 

figured the best and first thing i need to buy for the vortec is a rebuild kit

 

That depends heavily on what transmission you choose to go with. First of all is it even a flywheel? A flywheel is only used with a manual transmission and have a large flat machined surface for the friction disc to make contact with when an assembled clutch is bolted up to it. A flexplate is a flywheels couter part for use with automatics and lack the machined surface of a flywheel and instead have several holes for bolting up to a torque converter, obviously that is just a very simple basic description of the 2. As far as SBC's go there are a few important details when selecting the one you need - Obviously the first is which of the 2 you need, so far you've only mentioned automatics so that being the case you need a flexplate (which I'm guessing you already have). Both flexplate and flywheel choice varies depending on if you are running a 1 piece or 2 piece real main seal engine since they both have different bolt patterns. The next important piece of info is the number of teeth, the most common sizes being 153 and 168 teeth. Depending on transmission choice either may work provided the proper starter is used. AFAIK 153 teeth flywheels/flexplates were OEM for all 3rd gens.

As far as the tv cable coming out of adjustment, if its physically moving a few clicks after being driven it's time to replace it.

 

a truck engine in a car is more difficult then a larger displacement car engine, i reaize now that what i said sounds kinda dumb, anyways since ya already got one, save up for an underdrive pulley set for it so that it'll fit under your hood, gt that rebuild kit, take the engine down to the block and strip, bore, clean, and then paint, re assemble with the parts your gonna use (i assume edlebrock manifold, holley carb?) maybe some chrome valve covers and your good to go, and that'll be that get the fueling system setup for the new bigger engine (fuel pump) new lines, and motor mounts, also because of the larger heavier engine, new springs and struts, but as far as the truck parts you need, block, heads, intake............thats all i got lol goodluck with the swap hope your dedicated and follow through doing it the right way

 

Hold off on that until after you take it to the machine shop and buy what they recommend or better yet get them to order to right parts. Rebuild kits come with TONs of variations, the main important ones being required bearing thickness (unless you get very lucky and factory sizes will still work, but unlikely if it has wear on it), piston oversize (if boring is required), piston material, type of piston (dished, flat top, domed, etc), headgasket thickness, and a few million other things you won't know until you tear it down, clean, inspect and measure clearances...

 

Just found a MAC two peice under drive pulley set for thirdgens that's $60. Is thst a good deal?

 

will it work with your new 5.7 block? i mean are brackets included and do you have all the necessary bot holes?

 

Bolt holes all line up and yes it come with all the brackets and bolts.

 

Worked on the engine alittle tonight, removed the exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, drained the milky coolent from the pan, removed a few spark plugs since they are breaking on me and I figured it was Better to remove them before one breaks off too far. And I also removed the front acc stuff except the harmonic balancer and the power steering stuff because I need a puller for the power steering pulley to get to the other bolts. But it's off to a start but I had another thought dawn on me I'm gonna need an f body pan

 

I missed something somewhere. Why do you think you need underdrive pulleys? You need the block, the f body oil pan, a set of f body motor mounts, an aftermarket intake for the carb you're gonna use, the carb itself, the starter wires off of your current wiring harness will work, a fuel pressure regulator, and a set of F body accessories, and an ignition hot wire for the choke on your carb assuming it's an electric choke, and a new transmission.

 

he doesnt need underdrive pulleys, but i though he wante them, was trying to make sure he got them or the f body, not the truck so they'd clear the hood

 

Ah gotchya. There is a sticky somewhere in the carb section that tells you exactly what you need for the swap.

 

im going to look at the sticky when i get a free moment but i found a local shop here that rebuilds engines and im going to go ask them about dipping my block so i have a clean base to work with, can they also dip my heads? i know the blocks have to be pretty much fully stripped down before they are dipped but im not sure on the heads.. im going to start tearing into the internals of the engine this weekend to check everything, i drained the oil yesterday and it was milky and from what iv read online it looks like the intake gaskets are common for going back on these engines so im thinking thats what has happend and it was dumping the coolent into my oil. guess its a good thing im tearing into this and replacing the bearings.

 

Yep they should be able to dip your heads, too. What engine are you having tanked? I haven't read the last couple of pages so I'm a bit behind.

 

the vortec

 

Probably the head gasket and not the intake gasket. To hot tank the heads, yes, you will need to remove the valves

 

Okay thank you

 

Just got offered a 4.3 tranny out of a 98 blazer for an old truck toolbox I have laying around. I might get it and flip it for my 700r4 or some other parts I need

 

And i got ahold of the engine shop, it's going to cost me $45 to have my block hot tanked. What else should I have them do while it's up there and what all do they do while the blocks up there?

 

depending on the year that tranny will be a 4L60, 4L60E or 700R4. The 4L60 is essentially a renamed 700R4, and it is mechanically controlled. Pretty much 1992+ It became electronically controlled as the 4L60E, BUT i hear a rumor that a 4L60E can be converted to mechanical control by swapping a few parts with 700R4 parts.

I would definitely have them magnaflux it, especially since there is coolant in the oil.

 

Yeah I'm going to have the block fluxed and possible the heads and crank.

 

well it was an intake gasket that blew, was working on taking off the intake( still need to grab a PS pully remover) and one of the bolts is covered in milky coolent and oil, looks like melted milk chocolate. but i havent really had the time to mess with either my car or the engine but iv been looking at how to transform it into a 383 so who knows. at the moment im looking at some MOOG front and rear springs and some engine mounts for the engine and frame

 

cool, glad things are going good, and it wasnt something more serious, got some goodys for my car tonight nothing fancy

 

What'd you get?, also iv dropped my hp want for this engine too, would it be hard for me to achieve anywhere around 350 to maybe 400 hp? I pretty much just want to hang with the ls guys and my buddy's 04 gto

 

some dress up stuff, grant wheel, foglights, pedals, chrome valve stem caps (im missing one so i got all new ones) and a spectre filter gonna get some caliper paint and make mine red too

 

300-350 shouldn't be hard at all with a 350 block and you can achieve in the low 300's with a 305 even. Just swap the heads, cam, and intake for something more aggressive.

 

With a vortec 350 you can get 350hp with just a cam and exhaust. The heads already flow very well. And that's assuming you keep it injected.