Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I finished the center console lid this past week and worked on some other projects. I measured, cut and sewed the cover together for the lid, you have to sew it inside out. I didn't leave enough overhang to do a french seam but it looks great still.





I used some extra 3/16" foam I had lying around. The leather interior in my wife's car has much of the panels covered in foam and upholstery and it feels like 3/16-1/4" foam so I stopped worrying about it.
You have to put the cover on like you might put on a sock, sort of inside out and you pull it down as you go. I glued the top in place and let it set and then did the sides.



I took these pictures right after so some of the foam is still kind of dimpled but it's recovered and looks great, it turned out just as good as I could hope for.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Looks good.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm reposting my current problem here also. I know not all the guys that follow this thread frequent the electronics forum and I'm really hoping for some help.

Background is that I had an interior that claimed my fully functional VATS/Pass-key module. I found a new interior wiring harness and acquired 4 Pass-Key modules so that I could still use Pass-Key system. They are all the same part number and from 90-92 F-body.

I hooked everything up and have med sure that everything works. I have +12 volts to the module at pins A1 and B8. I have a negative/ground at pin B1. I have a +5 volts between pins A6 and B2 and also at the end of their wire runs at the connector for the steering wheel.

I've removed the starter relay andI have a positive 12 Volts at both respective terminals of the starter relay when cranking. Leaving the relay removed I can jumper the hot wire input (yellow wire) to the output (green wire) and crank the engine. I removed the relay and tested it off the car with a relay testing harness I made and it works perfect. I can put the relay in place, disconnect the Pass-Key module to apply a ground to pin A3 and the engine will crank.

It would seem like the Pass-Key module wiring easily passes all of the tests and is functional. The module also passes all the normal sniff tests. The module illuminates the security light (which shuts off only while in crank) and sends a 5 volt reference to the connector at the base of the steering column.

I bought a resistor kit that had all 15 of the correct resistances that the VATS tables call for. I measured each resistor and they were all spot on or easily within the min/max deviations.

On to finding out which resistor operates which modules. I used an old steering wheel side connector and left a few inches of wire connected to which I crimped on some alligator clamps that held the resistor:



My method was to put in the first resistor and hook up the first Pass-key module. (The security light would then pop on and stay lit) I try cranking and get nothing. I remove the first module and start a four minute timer and then move on the the second module, then third and fourth. After they would all fail I would change the resistor and wait for the four minute timer to chime and then I would start the process over. I tried all 60 different combinations in total and I gave each module four minutes before retrying it with a new resistor. I also checked the voltage with the resistor in place and I of course was getting different voltages.

I am using an aftermarket ecm (MegaSquirt III extra) so the only function of the pass-key module is to ground the relay. This is not a problem with the vats in the OE ecm.

Not once have I gotten the engine to crank (or the module to ground the microswitch of the starter relay)

I am at my wits end. Could all four Pass-key modules be bad? Am I missing something obvious? Is there something I'm not trying?

I don't want to go without VATS because it's a great system when it works but I'm seriously contemplating just installing a small switch to ground the negative relay instead of further working on this.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Is VATS for theft deterrence?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Yeah, its exactly that. Vehicle Anit-Theft System or VATS. In the end I more or less gave up on it and followed the advice of another member (Scooter) and just installed a car alarm that had a starter disable feature. I was able to install the alarm without hacking up the vehicle wiring though. I just had to hack up one of my Pass-Key modules to take the connector from it. It receives one power that is always hot and designated just for the VATS (10 amps fused), another that is a switched power (10 amp fused ECM power) and a ground. I also used the negative triggering relay wire for the starter kill.

Not the prettiest thing but it works.


Slathered it a bunch of hot glue gun goo and then wrapped it up tight with electrical tape.


I did have to repin the factory relay from normally open to normally closed. Luckily the factory used a five pin relay and five pin harness (What luck!) So I just moved the 87 terminal to the 87A position because the alarm I have applies a ground when the alarm is turned on. So now when the ground is applied relay removes the power path from the relay. Car starts fine now when the alarm is off.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Got the door panels on last week but never added pictures.
I used corrugated plastic for the panels. I traced the old door panels onto the plastic and used a pair of tin snips and a router to cut out the shape and holes I traced.




Then I used some new plastic hardware I bought.


I slathered the new door panel and the upholstery in glue and stuck them together.


Here is one of the panels attached with the new top trim.



Looks like I'm almost back where I started, sans fire.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Threw in the new floor mats because I didn't feel like I got much done this past week, made me feel better. I decided on the Z-28 logo in orange stitching to match the orange stripes.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

My son helps keep me company in the garage from time to time. Lately he helped me paint the back of the door panels with glue. Before that he scratched up my headlight bucket with a lag bolt. It's a give and take. Here is is sitting in one of the seats before the fire. He liked playing in there.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I swapped out my aging Optima Red Top (5+ years old) for a dual purpose starting and deep cycle battery. Its 1000 cranking amps with 800 Cold Cranking Amps and a reserve capacity of 3 hours.
https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...ery/107676_0_0
It is bigger and heavier so I had to make my own base for mounting it to the floor and then I found out that the typical battery hold down J bolts weren't long enough. I had to get some 1/4-20 threaded rod and cut it to a needed length. I removed the threads on one end, heated it up and bent it to shape. I also had to use some of the terminal adapters.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Made the new seat brackets and bolted in the seats.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

What seats are those?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

No name eBays. I had the Scat Pro Car before these and I've seen the Summit and Jegs in Person and I wouldn't be surprised if these were all made at the same factory in China. Until I get a sponsor for this car I can't afford a $600-1000 pair of name brand seats. These were around $400 or just under and are exactly what I was looking for width wise, height wise and color scheme. Comfortable for normal drives and they hold you in place. I did not used the sliders and instead made my own adapter bracket out of 1/8" flat bar and square tube that bolts to the floor. I wanted to get these as low as possible since I'm 6' tall.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

As a small side project I made a new shift light. I purchased from Speedhut an empty 2 1/16" gauge pod and from another seller some smoked SMD LEDs.


I cut out a circle of ABS plastic that fit where the gauge face would go. I measured and drilled out the holes for the four LEDs and then hot glued them in from the back side.

I put the gauge back together and mounted it in place on my gauge pod. Two of the LEDs are yellow and turn on at 5K RPM and 2 are red and turn on at 6K RPM. They are controlled by MegaSquirt.


Also if you look above the gauge pod you can see the sunvisor delete piece I made. It's nothing more than a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal cut out to the contour of the header panel. I will remove the current hardware for something with a thinner head and I'll spray it black so it's not so obvious. I need to paint the heads of all the interior hardware! I did add in a set of white SMD LEDs that mount to the sunvisor delete and are powered from the door open circuit. Before I did this the interior lighting was abysmal and now I'm quite happy with it. This picture is in a completely dark garage.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I like the full sweep oil temp gauge. What temps are you seeing at the normal 200 coolant temp?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Well since I've bought the oil temp gauge I haven't driven it long or far enough to have the oil temps come up to normal.levels. the drive to the car show last year was only six miles. I live in a small area where just about everything is within ten miles so it could be a while before I have info like that.

micktroup

You spent $800 on HEADLIGHTS?? Please tell me a) I read that wrong or b) you wife doesn't read this thread!!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

O no. Post #684 I said I bought all four for $160 total. I'm right there with you, I don't have $800 to spend on headlights for a recreational car.

Billgluckman

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I made that piece. The top piece that you see is 1/8" 6061 aluminum and underneath each mounting bolt is another piece of 1/8" aluminum so that it sits somewhat flush or at least flat with the firewall as that area is sunken in a little bit. It also allows you to countersink those mounting bolts. Then it is just taped for 1/4-20 threads that the relays for each fan and fuel pump bolt to. I also made the piece that mounts the clutch reservoir to the brake booster's studs. Super easy and IMO looks better than that stock stamped steel piece. I don't think mentioned those pieces in here.

Billgluckman

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Thanks, it was really easy to make.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

This past week I installed the new windshield and this time around I used the 3M ribbon style windshield adhesive. I have no idea if it is better than the 3M windoweld longevity wise but as far as installation the ribbon style was much easier to deal with, no doubt about it. When I set the windshield in place I didn't have to worry about it sliding down or all the adhesive oozing out if I used too much downward pressure. Unless this starts to leak or loosen I will stick with it.

I was then able to hook up the new (to me) rearview mirror. Works great and I have it programmed for my garage doors. I have the homelink buttons powering on with key-on voltage and the auto-dimming, compass and temperature features powering on when the headlights are on. In case you're wondering, yes the temperature is accurate it actually was that hot in my garage at 10 pm.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Tell me more about the mirror. Brand/model number? I'd like to have one programmed for my garage door too.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The other issue I took care of this past week was the angle of the Panhard bar. Suffice it to say, the car is lowered and the angle is way off.



My knowledge of the Panhard bar and its angulation vs chassis dynamics is a work in progress so I suggest anyone interested in it do a quick Google search or a search of thirdgen or ls1tech to find boatloads of info on panhard bars. What I do understand is that the Panhard bar is optimal for normal driving when it is close to horizontal. I've lowered the car which lowers the body mount and then I also use a relocation bracket to help with exhaust clearance which lowers the mount's position even more in relation to the axle side mount. Pretty clear I needed a bracket to lower the axle side mount.

For anyone without metal plate and welders in their garage you can buy them from UMI: http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...oducts_id=1036


The above one lowers the mount by 2 1/4" while the below mount is fully adjustable and lowers the mount up to 4"
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...oducts_id=1049

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I used posterboard to make all my templates and then traced them onto 1/8" metal plate and cut them out. So here is the first cut of the sides:



Then measured the arc length of the Panhard rod for the mounting through bolt hole and cut the corners off because I hate sharp and pointy pieces.



Then I cut a piece of tube (1/8" wall with 3/4" ID) to act as a spacer up top and put it in and test fitted.



Then welded it in place after centering it. I only have it welded to one side because of the way I have the bracket mounting to the Axle.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I added a little triangle brace at the top to help strengthen it.



Welded it up



Painted it and baked the bracket at ~150° for a few hours. And by that I mean I just put it out in the sun and it was 150° surface temp.




Bolted the bracket in place. You can see the bolt that I used to secure the bracket to the axle and protect against rotation.




Finished shot showing the new position and angle of the Panhard bar. It is at a 2° angle and I did that on purpose because I want to replace the rear springs since I think the car's rear end is sitting too low. So I figured I'll raise the rear ride height an inch and it should be slightly positive so when I sit inside (especially me and a passenger) it should be almost perfectly horizontal.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

These mirrors were off of a late model Chrysler Sebring, I think, pretty sure that's what I pulled them from. One of my trips down to the Phoenix wrecking yards I pulled three of them, $13 each. I pulled three. I don't know if I could fit this in a flat rate USPS box and feel comfortable with it arriving still in one functional piece but If you want to PayPal me $20 to cover the shipping fee of a non-USPS box I'll ship you one of my spares with the pin-out of the factory harness and part number for the temp sensor. The temp sensor can be found for $8-15. The mounting tab it uses is the same as on our windshield.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks I'll keep that in mind! For now I'm going to look for one in the parts yard since I need to look for a modern antenna anyway.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Doing some finishing work on a 3d model for a tablet mount. I'm not very happy with the current piece I have in the vehicle. Big thanks to 7thDarkAngel for giving me his double din file to use a starting point so I didn't have to start from scratch. The exact screw locations would have been a difficult to get perfect. I will post it along with my Z28 logo on thingiverse when finished.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I tinted the windows this past week and it made me realize that window tinting really is a perishable skill! Last time I tinted windows was nearly five years ago when I did our two daily drivers in addition to the previous Camaro's windows and hatch. I can remember doing the Camaro side windows in ten minutes start to finish and having it perfect. This time around I totally creased the first sheet and had to rip it off, even the second sheet I have a hairline crease and a few small pinpoint bubbles. The passenger side came out decent but I'll probably redo the driver's in a year or two when I want something to do. I always use 20% VLT, two-ply ceramic tint.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

As a side post I haven't made the insurance switch from Geico to a collector car insurance yet. The hold up is on my end and it's because the insurance company wants pictures of the car's exterior (front, back, left side, right side), Engine and interior. So I have to drive the car outside and do a photo session and I don't have everything ready and dependable enough yet.

So I received an email from Geico that I needed to review my auto policy. Logged in online and it said that I needed to call. So I called in and told this to an employee who said "O, I see. Well there's a lot of notes here so give me a moment to review them." I asked what this was about and that I pay the insurance every six months and I had another two months on it and I hadn't had any claims made. He again said he had to review the notes.

He came back on the line and said (summing this up) that due to modifications to my car they would no longer be insuring my car. I said OK so in layman's terms my car is worth more than a stock Camaro and you don't want to insure it. I can see that (and I can accept, understand and live with that). The employee said no that's not why it's because it's a race car and they don't insure race cars. Huh? I don't have a race car I have a show car. This car has never even set foot on a dragstrip or road course (Car probably wouldn't be allowed on a dragstrip, not sure about a road course). The employee then asked if I denied having racing seats and a modified engine and an aftermarket computer module. (They knew about them because I had to provide exact parts and prices for the payout of the fire claim) I told him that yes while I have changed much on the car that doesn't make it a race car. I could paint racing stripes on my other Mazda but that wouldn't make it a race car.

We had a polite back and fourth for a minute and I told him that this conversation didn't leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling of GEICO. I felt they tried to worm their way out of insuring this car and it made me very apprehensive about the future if something were to happen to my other vehicles. Would geico try to worm their way out of a future claim? Maybe, maybe not. I didn't really want to stick around to find out. I'll be changing insurance companies. I believe that this was the underwriter's response for me being knowledgeable and firm during the fire claim process. GEICO wanted to total the car out and only give me something like $1400 for it. I refused that and they paid out many times that. I've heard and read similar stories like mine. Older vehicles that are, for whatever the reason, worth more than a normal vehicle. They have a claim made and after the payout they get dropped.

shr00m

iTrader: (2)

My saving grace from the tornado damage was just putting stated claim insurance on mine through a local insurance agent. Geico is obviously out, but you might be able to pick some up locally.

I was was able to apply it without going through appraisals and pictures because it was a classic (25+ years old). Might want to call around.

Kevin D.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Arizona has the same rules about classics being any car that is >25 years old. I am kinda forced into collector car insurance with a mileage requirement because of the emissions laws. When I move to Phoenix next year the only work around for emissions is if the car is older than 1974 or it is on collector insurance with a mileage restriction.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Didn't get much done this week, I finally replaced the injectors with a set of flow matched pieces then did some tuning work on the startup settings. Cranking and warmup. I had been having issues with long cranking and poor idle quality at startup and I wasn't sure if it was an injector issue or settings issue. The injectors were old anyway (I bought them used and had them for a few years) so I wanted to go ahead and replace them. Basically I had too much fuel at cranking and warmup.

Otherwise I put the sunvisor windshield tint strip on this past week. I went with 20%.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Been dealing with Ball joint issues this past week so that has consumed most of my car time but I was also able to finish the interior badge that I made in AutoDesk 123d and had printed. I painted one with black background and the other a white background, I decided to go with the black background. In the picture it looks like two different shades of orange but it's the same exact color.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

This past week I finished the file for the tablet mount and had it printed. I had to have it printed in two pieces to keep from having to use a network of support pieces. I found out from measurement and fitment that this Samsung 8" tablet is the biggest that you can fit in these center consoles. There is really no room to spare laterally. Sanded it, primered and sprayed some SEM Texture paint on it. The texture paint is a very good match to OE but it is a very matte black finish compared to the satin black of the other interior pieces.









And here is a close up picture showing the texture of the reproduction shifter plate and the tablet mount I sprayed with the SEM texture paint.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Nest item on the docket is painting the underside of the hood. I'm only doing it because if I really want it to be a show car then it should have the underside painted. I didn't care enough to use a base coat clear coat with my expensive clear but I care more than using thinned Rustoleum so I bought some DuPont single stage Arctic White. Should turn out just fine.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The underside of the hood is painted and the hood is bolted back in place. I spent some time mulling it over about what level of finish I wanted the underside to have and I settled on A Single Stage by DuPont. I thought that a base coat clear coat finish would be overkill and never appreciated especially with how low the car is, you just really wouldn't see the underside well from a standing height. I considered just spraying it in Rustoleum but I still don't know how well that finish would hold up to heat being that is directly above the engine, like would it yellow? Anyway, I did not go to the lengths of prepping the garage to ensure I didn't get any dust settling in the finish because, who would stare at the underside of a hood hard enough to notice? I just closed the doors and threw tarps over everything and sprayed. Some dust did settle that would easily sand out but I'll pass on that.






The finish doesn't have the depth or reflection of a clear coat finish but it still looks great. The best way to describe it is if you were to open a can of Gloss white oil based enamel, it's like a very shiny cream. In the future I wouldn't hesitate to use this on anything that I want to look good but doesn't need to look awesome.

PS. Yes, I do like the hood hinges black and I want them to stay that color.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm submitting the paperwork and pictures to insurance currently for collectors insurance. It needs a wash and wax and a few small items (currently repainting the headlight bezels for instance) but other wise it's back to where I was ten months ago, ready for a car show. Once the insurance is approved I'll be doing a photoshoot in one of the casinos parking garages on an empty floor at night. Should be pretty cool.

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

Congratulations! Your hard work and attention to detail has been very impressive, even for those of us just lurking while following your (re)build.
Your car looks great. I am looking forward to seeing more pictures.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Thanks MoJoe.
Lately there have been some weeks where I barely touch the car or take one step forward and two steps backward, luckily this wasn't one of them. I got all the paperwork and some garage photos submitted for the insurance. I also was able to put on a set of headlights bezels/frames that I refinished. The old set was very worn and had no place being on the car.





Looks much better with repainted bezels!

So I still have a to do list for the car that will keep me occupied:
Make the same style door panels for the panels in the rear seat area.
Make a new exhaust that goes over the axle.
Make a rebuildable muffler, already bought all the materials.
Get an 8.8 rear end from a junkyard this fall and convert it to work on an Thirdgen using the Hiltsy torque arm mount
Mold a sub box out of fiberglass that looks like one of the rear corner panels in the trunk.

Each of those items will take me about a month. But like I said, the car is at a state where I can drive it and enter it in a show again and be proud of it. It's just one of those never ending project cars. Fortunately the colder months are coming up so I can spend more time in the garage at night. It's been miserable going out there after the kids are asleep and even with the doors open it's 100* with no breeze.

FART_NUGGETS

Love your car, again.

Good move on the collector insurance. When I bought my 89 Iroc vert, I knew if anything ever happened to it, an insurance claim with a standard co would be a nightmare. Went with Grundy, they let you drive it recreationally, even to work occasionally, and gave me an awesome agreed value policy at a great price.

Did I mention I love that car? The white/orange like the 30th anniv are awesome. Rear wing work, awesome. Smoothed bay, awesome. Maybe one day somehow I'll get to see it

So glad you got it back together after the fire.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I agree about the collector insurance. The policy went into effect Friday morning. I sent them some garage photos and their underwriting department spitballed it an insurance value of $25,000. They would be open to a discussion about insuring it for more but I have a feeling that means getting it appraised, more and better pictures and more exact details of the car. I am interested in an appraisal but finding someone will be a chore. I'll have to get a hold of some of the other Las Vegas clubs to see if they know of any guys. One of my coworkers has had his 56 Ford insured with I went with Heacock classic car insurance for a long time and it was priced very competitively so I went with them. I get 3,000 miles per year with it.

Thanks for the compliments. It really is satisfying having a car you've re-built and modified yourself.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Did a bit of exterior work on the car this week. I had to clay bar the whole car, I wet sanded and polished the windshield frame that I repainted, lightly polished the whole car and then waxed it. I'll have to repolish the wheels though, they are bare aluminum and the wheel cleaner stained them. I'll clean and polish the engine bay this week and get some real pictures one evening.

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dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Looks great Tibo.

The front lip of that hood looks a bit strange to me.

I don't remember seeing any other hood drop down over the headlight buckets. Is that just how that style of hood is?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The hood originally came with that lip all across the front. It wouldn't shut because of the lip so I had to trim it over the bumper portion. It has never bothered me aesthetically. I kept it around because the hood is fairly thin and I imagine that 90° lip would help keep the hood from cracking at the front. Maybe as a future project I could add another layer of fiberglass to the underside of the front and cut the lip off.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Ah, I forgot it was not doubled up.

My Cervini has a finished underside and that is the only aftermarket hood I have ever bought, so in my head they all had two layers.

Thanks for the clarification.

Car looks great!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I repolished the wheels, clay bar'd the engine bay and waxed the engine bay and wheels. I've also been spending some time driving it around, checking components and working on startup, afterstart and the driving portions of the fueling. The two issues that I've spent time this week have been
1. The UMI Weight Jacks with a 850# spring combined with the Howe 3/4" extended ball joint make the car low. The 850# rated springs appear to not have much travel before they themselves fully compress. And I have nothing on my front end besides the engine and a two layer fiberglass cowl hood. I'm considering going with some 1000# rated springs. With 3/4" extended ball joints I have the weight jack fully extended just to be able to drive it and have a suspension travel.

2. The car cranks over, idles and drives pretty well but the immediate afterstart is giving me issues. I believe its an idle air control valve setting since all my fueling appears to be pretty good. The difficulty is that with MegaSquirt every parameter is user specified... Right now the car starts like an old carburated engine that turns over but requires a slight amount of throttle just after starting.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Well it's been a year and I entered the same show. It's a big 3 day car show and it's local at one of the casinos so I entered the car and left the car there for the three days. They had 2 casino security guards there 24/7 and it was gated so I wasn't worried about theft or anything. I ended up taking home best of the 1990's. The cars that won president's choice and best of show had big money in them so I'm very happy winning just my category.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

On my way to the show I stopped by the Chevy Dealership and had them put my Camaro up on their alignment rack. I had used my camber gauge and a laser and ruler to set toe in. To my surprise the camber gauge I own was pretty accurate but my method for setting toe resulted in a bit more toe than I needed. They set everything and let me snap some underside pics.