STL guys - asking for help
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, IL
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
STL guys - asking for help
I bought a full suspension with an agreement that another friend of mine would install it, as well as show me how it's all done (I offered him money for his time). That has fallen through, and now I've got a full suspension sitting upstairs and no means to get it done. I can't do it at my house unless it's done within the end of the day because I'm still with the 'rents until next semester and they can't stand it when my car is in the garage (my spot is... outside). I guess it's possible to do it in sections, but we'd be doing everything without the convenience of a car lift or anything like that obviously.
I'm asking for help and willing to pay if need be. I don't want someone to just install it for me. I want to LEARN this so I can help other people out there. That and I have $2K's worth of random metal sitting in my room and it's taking up a ton of space.
Can any of you guys lend me a hand? I know much of it is simply bolting it all in, but there's all the random tricks I don't know that I would like to know. This only comes from direct experience that I don't have.
I'm asking for help and willing to pay if need be. I don't want someone to just install it for me. I want to LEARN this so I can help other people out there. That and I have $2K's worth of random metal sitting in my room and it's taking up a ton of space.
Can any of you guys lend me a hand? I know much of it is simply bolting it all in, but there's all the random tricks I don't know that I would like to know. This only comes from direct experience that I don't have.
Last edited by DeltaElite121; Feb 14, 2012 at 01:40 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Denver
Car: new project, 86 iroc z m5
Engine: swapping to lt1 with m6
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: will be 373 but has stock gear
Re: STL guys - asking for help
what parts do you have? i'm pretty sure if you can't find someone we can still help with questions.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, IL
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Re: STL guys - asking for help
Torque arm
Rear control arms with LCARB's
strut tower brace + J&M mounts
front and rear springs; front and rear struts
subframe connectors
wonderbar
any hardware associated with any of the parts. Everything is new.
It's all here just sitting on the floor. I am just hoping someone can show me how to do all of this, because I learn it quick just by observing/doing it. Written directions with cars just doesn't work well with me, even with pictures for whatever reason. That and I can't just tinker with it and set it aside like most guys can because I don't own my garage. It needs to be done within a day's-worth of time and that's tough to do when you're doing something for the first time and trying to figure out the best way to do it.
Last edited by DeltaElite121; Feb 14, 2012 at 01:43 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Denver
Car: new project, 86 iroc z m5
Engine: swapping to lt1 with m6
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: will be 373 but has stock gear
Re: STL guys - asking for help
well since you are still learning i would definitly get someone that has automotive experiance to help and make sure you dont hurt yourself. a car falling off of safety stands is a big deal!
i would pull some money together to have the front struts with mounts and springs replaced at a shop just to make life easier but the rest is doable.
after you get it back home and have a whole day to work on it this is the route i would take. safely secure the car on safety stands and dont forget to lift the front first because it will be impossible to get the front off of the ground second.
since most of the work is going to be in the back i'd replace the front sway bar then go to the back, now you will realize that the end link screws are most likely rusty so a quick trick is to put a little motor oil on the thread before you attempt to take them off. it will help the wrists. then you have the 4 bolts that hold the bar to the frame, take those off and remove it. put the new one in place loose and get all of the bolts started, once you are sure that it is in right then go ahead and tighten it in all of the way. and since the bushings are most likely polyeurathane put a dab of grease anywhere the bubber is going to meet the frame so that you dont get a lot of noise out of the bushings while driving.
now support the rear differential with the jack. you dont want it to fall down when you take out the rear shocks bcause you will mess up the rear brake line. once you remove the rear shocks the rear end can drop down enough to replace all of the parts one at a time. right before you put the rear end bak up go ahead and replace the shocks.
once you have everything installed go threw and check every single blot that was replaced to make sure that they are tight and once all checks out and is tight then go ahead and get it ready for a test drive.
now that it is on the ground take it around the block and check for any noises that were not presant before, if it checks out finr then it is time for the next fase.
you have put the car threw enough road time to settle the ride hight so now you can tie the frame together. im assuming that the frame connecors are bolt in and if they are you are now ready to put them in. you cannot lift the car to put these in because the car has to be on all 4 wheels to make sure the frame is not tweeked in one direction or the other. once it is tight then go ahead and also put in the strut tower brase and again do a quality control test.
once you tie the frame together you are done and ready to go!!!! enjoy!!!!
i would pull some money together to have the front struts with mounts and springs replaced at a shop just to make life easier but the rest is doable.
after you get it back home and have a whole day to work on it this is the route i would take. safely secure the car on safety stands and dont forget to lift the front first because it will be impossible to get the front off of the ground second.
since most of the work is going to be in the back i'd replace the front sway bar then go to the back, now you will realize that the end link screws are most likely rusty so a quick trick is to put a little motor oil on the thread before you attempt to take them off. it will help the wrists. then you have the 4 bolts that hold the bar to the frame, take those off and remove it. put the new one in place loose and get all of the bolts started, once you are sure that it is in right then go ahead and tighten it in all of the way. and since the bushings are most likely polyeurathane put a dab of grease anywhere the bubber is going to meet the frame so that you dont get a lot of noise out of the bushings while driving.
now support the rear differential with the jack. you dont want it to fall down when you take out the rear shocks bcause you will mess up the rear brake line. once you remove the rear shocks the rear end can drop down enough to replace all of the parts one at a time. right before you put the rear end bak up go ahead and replace the shocks.
once you have everything installed go threw and check every single blot that was replaced to make sure that they are tight and once all checks out and is tight then go ahead and get it ready for a test drive.
now that it is on the ground take it around the block and check for any noises that were not presant before, if it checks out finr then it is time for the next fase.
you have put the car threw enough road time to settle the ride hight so now you can tie the frame together. im assuming that the frame connecors are bolt in and if they are you are now ready to put them in. you cannot lift the car to put these in because the car has to be on all 4 wheels to make sure the frame is not tweeked in one direction or the other. once it is tight then go ahead and also put in the strut tower brase and again do a quality control test.
once you tie the frame together you are done and ready to go!!!! enjoy!!!!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, IL
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 876
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
Car: RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" for the ladies
Re: STL guys - asking for help
I can't do it at my house unless it's done within the end of the day because I'm still with the 'rents until next semester and they can't stand it when my car is in the garage (my spot is... outside). I guess it's possible to do it in sections, but we'd be doing everything without the convenience of a car lift or anything like that obviously.
I think if you really want to learn, then you should start on those things to gain some experiance.
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Belleville,IL
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 383 248/256 cam
Transmission: 700r4 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.89 gears detroit locker
Re: STL guys - asking for help
Really? That close to safb.... im llike 6 or 7 from scott. U old enough to buy beer yet. Lol
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, IL
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 377
Transmission: TH350; Circle D 4200 converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Re: STL guys - asking for help
@ Aaron, I'm not particularly worried about those parts. It's the other ones that I don't know how to do effectively/safely. mainly the torque arm/degreeing it in, springs/struts, and control arms. The subframes are easy provided I had access to a welder, which I don't. That's one thing I DO know how to do fairly decent: weld (these are not bolt-in subframes).
I only listed the other parts because that's everything that needs to go in. It still helps to have another hand at times, even if the job is simply a bolt in installation. That's kind of what I was getting at.
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: arnold, missouri
Car: 88 iroc
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: unknown atm
Axle/Gears: unknown atm
Re: STL guys - asking for help
Hello new to this fourm. I just bought a 88 iroc with 305 tpi. Been readin the forms for the last 3 days or so. I'm in arnold and would be willing to hep ya out.
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