hi there!
I live in west springfield mass, and have a 92 RS with a 5.0 TBI. I havent been able to drive my car at all this year because my Cam bearings let lose, so now I am making NO oil pressure. I just replaced my Oil pump, and related.
I need to know if there is anyone around here that I could pay to swap my cam and lifters out..I have never done those in my life before...although I did my heads, and other stuff. i would pay decent and for what its worth, have a Vortec polished intake and MSD aluminum distributor. and mallory pressure regulator for swaps....hit me back

 

i replaced the camshaft and lifters in my 85 camaro 2 years ago and it wasnt hard at all.
do you just want a stock set or something better.

i didnt remove the engine when i did it. you need to remove distributor, intake manifold, and all attachments, set hoses aside, disconnect electrical. remove valv covers. you need to remove your radiator, fan and shroud.

tl:dr - take everything off the top of the engine and in front of the engine. bag and tag nuts and bolts.

make it so that the timing cover is present and visible. you will need to drop the oil pan a little to get the timing cover off. which in turn wil require a new oil pan gasket. remove the balancer and timing cover. and you will see where the cam and crank are. you will need to remove the chain as well. no need to mark the positions because you will need to retime the engine. you have the valve covers off already. so you need to take the rockers and rods out. if you plan to use these again (reccomend changing them) you will need to put them back where they came out. next you just pull the lifters out.
once the lifters are out the cam will come out. you may have to do some rotating to get it out. this is also a good time to change your gear set. make sure the dots on ur gear set line up and install in reverse replacing gaskets and sealant along the way. if you work diligently you should be done in 2 days.


this is a very quick and dirty explaination to show that is not a hard job just a good amount of work, to give you an idea of what the job was like for me. dont work specifically by this. i also may have missed important things.
get a chiltons manual.

i had alot of fun doing this on my car, and i litterally had blood and sweat go into it lol.
but if you say that theres an issue with the bearings. you WILL have to pull the engine. be cause everything will have to be taken off and out to get to the bearings.

forgive me if its confusing.


also, forgot to mention something, when you put you lifters rods and rockers back in. you have to tighten them to a certain degree, if the valve lash is off your engine may run, but it will sound like you have piston pin slap. (when your pistons and cylinders are so worn, the pistons slap against the walls while going up and down)

 

on my 92 I shouldnt have to drop the pan at all, I have plenty enough clearance. Also, I just replaced my pan gasket, with a solid hard rubber one. I have already taken the water pump, radiator and corresponding off the car, but someone told me you can do the Cam Bearings with the motor in the car?

 

i dont know about doing the cam bearings in the car, but you will need to loosen most of your pan bolts, because the timing cover has to seal with it, and i know on my car you needed to loosen the pan bolts to get the timing cover off. and if your unsure how to do the cam swap, then are you having someone else do the cam bearings? i know when i had my big block done, i had the machine shop do the cam bearings, and the engine was out of the car...

 

it will be impossible to get to the cam bearings while the engine is inside the car. too much is in the way from the bottom. especially looking up. there is no non invasive way of doing it. u cant get to that part of the engine from the top. and from the bottom, you have the crossmember, oilpan, oil pump, cranshaft, and piston shafts in the way of even the camshaft. if you thought putting in the camshaft was alot of work to install while the engine is in the car. i wouldnt want to change bearings.

 

I'm down in Enfield. Anytime I've changed bearings, cams, etc I've always pulled the engine. IMO its alot easier to just pull the motor. When installing cam bearings you want to be able to see how they are set into the bore so that they're not too far back or too far forward and when installing the cam you need to be careful as to not score the bearing surface which is WAY easy when you're trying to finagle the cam into the bores, leaning over the nose, trying to shove it in from a weird angle. Get my drift? Alot easier when the motor is on a stand and you can rotate the engine 180 so you're looking down on the crank, you'll be able to see your cam going through the bearings.

If you can take the motor out we can talk.

 

how about all the metal in the motor from the bearing ?? that has to be cleaned out or your gonna grenade that motor once you put it back together

 

Cleaning EVERYTHING is just part of having a motor on the stand.

 

figured it would be easier to just pull the motor, and I would but the problem is A) I dont have to tools necessary to do the job ( stand, hoist, ect) and B) the time C) the money to do that all again. I just need an experienced hand to help me do the job. I have been out of a vehicle for 8 months now because of this problem. like i said, I dont bodywork and Painting...thats my fortay'. Never really got into the mechanics end of the ordeal.

 

Also, I heard the when you have a roller setup, you do not have to replace the roller lifters when doing the cam? IS THIS TRUE...it would save me a couple hundred...for sure

 

You can save your lifters, yes. I have the tools and there's a mess of people in your area that have knowledge (goto www.necamaro-firebird.org) and say hello. With New England winter coming you need an enclosure to do this, that way if you hit any roadblocks or speedbumps money wise you don't have to worry about when its going to snow or rain. I have a hoist and the tools as well as a number of other people I've already mentioned. You're going to want to go through the block though entirely because if you ate a bearing theres no telling how much metal is in your oil.