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dang car...

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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
Firebreed's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
dang car...

A few days after my oil pump swap, i found out that im leaking oil put the car up on a lift and long behold, the oil pan gasket blew up on me However i do still got good oil pressure and i have to add oil every few days im thinking either the bolt was on to tight or to loose causeing the oil pressure to "burst" the gasket, The pan is leaking ONLY in that place, so now i got to drop the pan again what a pain in the rear
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 10:53 PM
  #2  
8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
OKay, dn'tver tighten the gasket. Use a 1/4 inch drive set, and "make the loop" around the pan on the bolts. It'lltake a few "loops" to get it correct. Keep an eye on the gasket...once it starts to "squish" out from between the pan and block...STOP.

Reason to use a 1/4 inch set is to not apply too much torque on the bolts. This is one place that less is better.
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 11:04 PM
  #3  
Firebreed's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Ill do that, I guess the german method(goodentight) ant the best method to use lol, once i get the some more free time, ill replace the gasket, until then, ill watch my pressure, and check my oil level daily
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 12:26 AM
  #4  
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
that sux, good luck.

did u follow torque pattern ?
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #5  
Firebreed's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
no i didnt, I just have the haynes manual and all they give is the torque specs, so i just got them good-en-tight with a 3/4 drive ratchet. i have a toruqe wrench its just hasnt been calibrated in like 15 years
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 01:02 AM
  #6  
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
just weld the spot thats leaking. less hassle
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 01:05 AM
  #7  
Firebreed's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Its the gaskit.. not the pan itself. .I dont want to weld the pan to the motor...
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 01:20 AM
  #8  
TraviZ's Avatar
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
yes you do
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:58 AM
  #9  
3.492rs's Avatar
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 658
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From: bay area, CA
Car: 89 IROCZ
Engine: L98 4150 carb
Transmission: Transgo 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt/3.23
just weld it, motors problay on its last legs anyway who cares
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 07:43 AM
  #10  
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From: 707
Car: '92 Z03
Engine: LSX
Transmission: M12
RE: Last whiny thread

Originally posted by vindeezl


If I was you and had to reseal the pan again, I would just pull the whole motor / trans and take a p!ss on it.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 02:15 AM
  #11  
TraviZ's Avatar
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
Re: RE: Last whiny thread

whens the next time your gonna pull the pan? to swap the motor, i seriously think welding it is the way to go, and at this, prolly the only way to cure the leak.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:57 AM
  #12  
Firebreed's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
gonna pull the pan to reseal it in a week two to weeks, i got to replace some suspention parts as well.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:18 PM
  #13  
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
Originally posted by Firebreed
suspention
suspension
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #14  
Firebreed's Avatar
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Dont got a spell checker at my comp


ya all knew what i ment
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