350
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Woodland, CA
Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
if u plan to mod it in the future, stick with the 5.7
remember, 350's only came in auto unless its been converted so dont be fooled.
remember, 350's only came in auto unless its been converted so dont be fooled.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,211
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From: SLO County, CA.
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
You might want to think about what's more important to you, a 5-6 speed or a 350. 305's came w/ both auto and 5 speeds. 350's came stock as auto only. I went with the 350 and plan on converting to a 6 speed later(Kiesler), 'cause I didn't want to mess with smog crap, and wanted the extra hp. Some people(drag racers) prefer the auto trans though. Most would say to steer clear of the 305. I had one(5.0 HO motor) in my 84 that was noticably weaker than my current 350. Very happy with the IROC I have now. But want more than stock hp later. Right now it's a daily driver though.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
IE Me.. even though my car is running like crap atm... i'm thinking its time for a carb rebuld
.. if only i knew how lol
.. if only i knew how lol
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: SLO County, CA.
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
Firebreed, have you tried carb cleaner spray as an eay fix yet? Sometimes the easy fixes you don't think about. The other day, I replaced my fuel filter when at first I thought my fuel pump was going out.
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From: Antelope, CA
Car: 89 IrocZ/17 LS 1LE
Engine: 383/LGX
Transmission: 400/TR-3160
Axle/Gears: 3.08/3.27
I'd get the cleanest car I could, and its easier to go from 305->350 than it is to go from auto->manual
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Originally posted by Daniel U
Firebreed, have you tried carb cleaner spray as an eay fix yet? Sometimes the easy fixes you don't think about. The other day, I replaced my fuel filter when at first I thought my fuel pump was going out.
Firebreed, have you tried carb cleaner spray as an eay fix yet? Sometimes the easy fixes you don't think about. The other day, I replaced my fuel filter when at first I thought my fuel pump was going out.
i used carb cleaner.. i got the carb nice and shiny.. but other then that no difference.. hell i even adjusted the idle speed screw to get the car to idle lower (cant seem to get it under 1k on my stock tach...) lately its been almost dying but then comeing right back alive, its like its stumbling, but it doesnt do it all the time. I do know that (look at the picture) that thing is not doing what its supposed to be doing (forgot what it is called). Its supposed to stop the car from deseling after shutdown. sorry bout the size.. BTW the carb looks much cleaner now then it does in the pic.. Ive used about 2 to 3 cans of carb cleaner on the carb since then (and no not at the same time)
(its at the bottum right hand corner, you can barely see it)
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: SLO County, CA.
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
Yeah, oops on the high jack. Have you priced an upgraded carb? How far from your motor swap?
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
3.4 swap is gonna be at least a year away (got to save some more money) I keep blowing my engine money on other things for the car (ie: suspension upgrades, ect ect)
I priced a 2bbl holley (a holley II, which is a remaned Verajet.... i believe) at 400+
I bet i can get a local shop to rebuild my carb cheeper then that.
I priced a 2bbl holley (a holley II, which is a remaned Verajet.... i believe) at 400+
I bet i can get a local shop to rebuild my carb cheeper then that.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: SLO County, CA.
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
For sure, espeacially if you take it to them. Might want a shop to look at the other issues though. Sorry about the misfortune though. If it makes you feel better my wifes Tahoes trans went out at the cost of $2200.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Im reall iffy about taking the car to shops.. the last shop i took it too, f'd up my a/c system.. had a/c in the car for a week after a r134a swap.. a year later i replaced my compressor, acummulator, and found out that the line where the a/c filter goes (orface tube?) was striped out (the nut part... *** that sounds wrong
)
) Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: SLO County, CA.
Car: '88 Camaro
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt w/3.27 lim. slip
I plan on pulling mine eventually if you want it. I need the A/C delete pulley though. Good mech. are hard to find. The guy with the ruff 92 was/is a mechanic. He might steer you n the right direction.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
all i really need i believe to get this car's ac going again, is a good shop who will do a good leak down test other then just giveing it a good once over (which the past two shops did...
) and replace just about every hose, hardline, ect of the a/c system. then charge it up with r134a
) and replace just about every hose, hardline, ect of the a/c system. then charge it up with r134a Supreme Member
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From: 707
Car: '92 Z03
Engine: LSX
Transmission: M12
Firebreed, rebuilding a carb is E-fukin-Z.
You can waste all the cans of carb cleaner on the outside you want and make it all pretty, but it will still run like $hit.
Sounds to me like you have a couple of clogged idle passages / needle & seat, or need to fiddle with the float.
All in all some of your time and a $20 rebuild kit will beat $400.
Couldn't agree more bro
You can waste all the cans of carb cleaner on the outside you want and make it all pretty, but it will still run like $hit.
Sounds to me like you have a couple of clogged idle passages / needle & seat, or need to fiddle with the float.
All in all some of your time and a $20 rebuild kit will beat $400.
Originally posted by kairles
I'd get the cleanest car I could, and its easier to go from 305->350 than it is to go from auto->manual
I'd get the cleanest car I could, and its easier to go from 305->350 than it is to go from auto->manual
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Originally posted by vindeezl
Firebreed, rebuilding a carb is E-fukin-Z.
You can waste all the cans of carb cleaner on the outside you want and make it all pretty, but it will still run like $hit.
Sounds to me like you have a couple of clogged idle passages / needle & seat, or need to fiddle with the float.
All in all some of your time and a $20 rebuild kit will beat $400.
Firebreed, rebuilding a carb is E-fukin-Z.
You can waste all the cans of carb cleaner on the outside you want and make it all pretty, but it will still run like $hit.
Sounds to me like you have a couple of clogged idle passages / needle & seat, or need to fiddle with the float.
All in all some of your time and a $20 rebuild kit will beat $400.
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From: 707
Car: '92 Z03
Engine: LSX
Transmission: M12
Well the tools req'd to rebuild a carb aren't exactly "specialty" tools. It's not like you need an electron microscope and a hydraulic press to do it. IMHO you should have this crap already.
It is your fear of "screwing anything up" that will keep your local auto repair shop in business. To be honest, if it wasn't already "screwed up" then you wouldn't be trying to do anything now, would you? IMO anything you try and do would be an improvement.
What if it is just a clogged needle / seat, total cost ~$20 rebuild kit included.
But feel free to put your mechanic's son through college, I'm not
It is your fear of "screwing anything up" that will keep your local auto repair shop in business. To be honest, if it wasn't already "screwed up" then you wouldn't be trying to do anything now, would you? IMO anything you try and do would be an improvement.
What if it is just a clogged needle / seat, total cost ~$20 rebuild kit included.
But feel free to put your mechanic's son through college, I'm not
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
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From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
I might just try to rebuild it myself, if i screw it up then ill take it to the shop and have it professionally redone
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From: 707
Car: '92 Z03
Engine: LSX
Transmission: M12
'Atta boy! Growin' you some *****!
Just rip that P.O.S. apart and you will never bow to it again, you will know it inside and out. No "if i screw it up", just do it until you fix it.
Your wallet will thank you, you will have peace of mind that it's done right.
Just rip that P.O.S. apart and you will never bow to it again, you will know it inside and out. No "if i screw it up", just do it until you fix it.
Your wallet will thank you, you will have peace of mind that it's done right.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
It's really not that difficult Firebreed. I've done a couple carbs at our shop and it's not that big of a deal. Just make sure you don't loose ANYTHING. Also, set aside some time to work on it straight from start to finish. If you don't have to divide your time, you'll be able to finish it much easier.
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