Paint and Body Pros!!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento Ca
Car: 86 Trans am, 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 Sbc, nothin yet
Transmission: 700r4- both
Paint and Body Pros!!!!!!!
Anyone out there?? Can u give me some tips to strip paint and sand it all down nicely and apply primer for a winter paint job.. Please let me know what materials I would need, besides time.. what grit sandpaper and all that jazz.. thanks
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: California
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 4 spd auto
Other stuff
Call a local auto paint supplier and discuss issues with them they are usually very helpful. They like to be helpful because paint materials, tape, paper,scotchbrites, metal etch, primers are all big dollars when you use quality stuff.
I use to be an autobody man and painter for 15 years until the gases finally got the better of me and I went back to college. Materials have changed but here are tips that I used. I don't like chemical paint strippers, way to messy and difficult to keep out of nooks and crannies. I don't use them unless I find the car has been painted multiple time. If you do, tape off all of your body seams, engine compartment, windows, etc. Don't use a grinder at all (unless your stripping off filler). Even then you won't need super abrasive paper. Use a large dual action sander (DA)and 40 to get things started finishing up the metal in 80 grit. Get a metal etch you can rub on and off or use a metal etching primer. Your primer choice should be catalyzed otherwise primer is not water proof. If you drive the car as you work, rust will start under standard old style primer when it absorbs moisture. Basically strip it with sandpaper and DA. Touch up small areas with small DA sander, by hand, and 3M fiber wheels. Seal it with catalyzed primer, repair areas as needed (finish all fillers with no less than 80-100 grit should be fine. Start with 40 grit). Make sure your filler doesn't have pinholes. Touch up pinholes with more filler lightly thinned with finishing resin. Once your done with an area always primer up as soon as possible to keep out oxidation, moisture etc. Before primering always clean with grease and wax remover, and tack cloth. Do 1 or 2 panels, unless the car can be out of service and out of the weather for some time and carry lots of patience. What is under the paint is what makes the paint job.
Hope you didn't already know all of this and I just insulted the hoopty doo out of you.
J
I use to be an autobody man and painter for 15 years until the gases finally got the better of me and I went back to college. Materials have changed but here are tips that I used. I don't like chemical paint strippers, way to messy and difficult to keep out of nooks and crannies. I don't use them unless I find the car has been painted multiple time. If you do, tape off all of your body seams, engine compartment, windows, etc. Don't use a grinder at all (unless your stripping off filler). Even then you won't need super abrasive paper. Use a large dual action sander (DA)and 40 to get things started finishing up the metal in 80 grit. Get a metal etch you can rub on and off or use a metal etching primer. Your primer choice should be catalyzed otherwise primer is not water proof. If you drive the car as you work, rust will start under standard old style primer when it absorbs moisture. Basically strip it with sandpaper and DA. Touch up small areas with small DA sander, by hand, and 3M fiber wheels. Seal it with catalyzed primer, repair areas as needed (finish all fillers with no less than 80-100 grit should be fine. Start with 40 grit). Make sure your filler doesn't have pinholes. Touch up pinholes with more filler lightly thinned with finishing resin. Once your done with an area always primer up as soon as possible to keep out oxidation, moisture etc. Before primering always clean with grease and wax remover, and tack cloth. Do 1 or 2 panels, unless the car can be out of service and out of the weather for some time and carry lots of patience. What is under the paint is what makes the paint job.
Hope you didn't already know all of this and I just insulted the hoopty doo out of you.
J
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
Likes: 3
From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
GWW... nice response.
Welcome to the forum (in case no one else said it).
Welcome to the forum (in case no one else said it).
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento Ca
Car: 86 Trans am, 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 Sbc, nothin yet
Transmission: 700r4- both
thanks for the helpful information..GWW.. I will use this to the best of my abilities. THe car is out of service jus waitin on my garage to store it for the summer and beginning winter months. Then the paint will be shed. I jus hope I do a good enough job. Paint and body work is expensive.
Cadillac.. thanks for the Welcome. U will be seein lots more of me.
Cadillac.. thanks for the Welcome. U will be seein lots more of me.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
Likes: 3
From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
Originally Posted by 86copchaser76
Cadillac.. thanks for the Welcome. U will be seein lots more of me.
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Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: California
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 4 spd auto
I'll try to help where I can
I'm hoping to get started on a full repaint of my IROC and have it done within a couple months. Perhaps as I go I can post some of what I do. It's been a decade since I touched a paint gun but perhaps I'll make the mistakes before you do and I can warn you about things.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento Ca
Car: 86 Trans am, 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 Sbc, nothin yet
Transmission: 700r4- both
that would be great.. I dont think I will spray it myself.. jus tryin to save money on the prep work.. ya know?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 1
From: Gardnerville, Nv.
Car: 00 Camaro SS
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 speed
I took off my tailights, headlights, and a few other things and just started sanding.I used orbital air sander and an electric,I would use an electric if I were you,the air seems to like grooving the paint really easy.If you don't have a lot of blemishes to fix then it won't take too long.Here are some pics.It took about 1 day to sand and 1 day total to prime and paint.I even painted my rims black,they were grey before.
Before


During


After


Before


During


After


Last edited by 87tpi; May 30, 2006 at 04:04 PM.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 1
From: Gardnerville, Nv.
Car: 00 Camaro SS
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 speed
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento Ca
Car: 86 Trans am, 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 Sbc, nothin yet
Transmission: 700r4- both
all that in one day? THats incredible... Unless Im wrong, thats good work. I hope mine goes that smoothly. But Ima first timer with pain and body so we will see. I will be saving this entire Post to refer to as I go.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 1
From: Gardnerville, Nv.
Car: 00 Camaro SS
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 speed
Well it was spread over a few days with some sanding here and there.If I had worked straight through than it would have taken about a day.Not too bad but I didn't have any body work to fix.
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Paint prep 