I have stock sized 245/50 Nittos and in my '88, the best 60' I been able to run is a 2.01. The suspension is basically stock other than Lakewood LCA's and unhooking the front sway bar. I'm also running 3.27's and a Yank 3200 converter. I've tried tire pressures ranging from 20-28 psi and power braking at different RPMs from off idle up to about 2600. I like the off idle launch the most as it produces the least amount of wheel hop and thats the method I used on 2.01 run. This car has seen 1.8 60' with BFG DR's back when it was '87Fake's car.

well u named ur problem right there, wheel hop, u need to get relocation brackets for the LCAs, LCAs, and a adjustable torque arm. another ruling factor in how quick that car is going to launch is ur gearing to. but i bet if u can get it not hope and u can brake launch it ull get sub 2.0 60s. all set up id say 1.8s will come easy for u

I don't have LCA relocation brackets and have never had wheel hop, except for once - my rear shocks turned out to be the culprit. Have a look at them and see what you find. With my old set up I was pulling low 1.7's and a few high 1.6's on BFG 255/50-16's. I was still able to come w/in .05 - .07 of those 60's with 245/50-16 Nitto drags. My suspension was brutally simple. HTH

The car already has lakewood LCAs. it never wheelhopped on the BFG DRs I ran it on. Funny how it does with the Nittos.
As far as gearing, it is 3.27 but with the converter they work very well and it doesn't bog.
Joe......do the headers!! ha

You only need relocation brackets if the car is lowered.

With a tubular pan hard rod and lower control arms, I have cut a best of 1.65 a couple of times on 245/50/16 Nittos. That was when I had the stock setup engine, tranny wise.

I run 22psi at the track as that seemed like the best pressure for me. Most F-Bodies with converters that I know of leave at or slightly above idle. They usually run mid 1.7s or so with a converter.

How long of a burnout do you do? Is the track prepped? Try rolling on the throttle instead of just straight to the floor.

FWIW, I can only run 1.80 now with the new turbo, converter as I can't build any boost at the line because its so rich. Once that problem is taken care of, I think it should be back in the 1.6x range since its the same suspension set up.

id try 16-17 psi..22 lbs is high for a DR when at the strip.your not using the soft sidewall of a DR at those psi's .i usually ran mine around 15-16 psi.i did have a taller tire. 275-60-15 DR .but i got in the 1.54 s...goodluck

I did try those pressures and found out that I could launch the same at the higher pressure.

With my old WS6, I would run 15psi but that was a 275/40/17. I believe the 15" tires also run better at that pressure.

Either way, just try and find out what works for your car. Every car is different so it just takes time and practice.

BRIrocZ......It maybe the track conditions. I had similar problems with my car and thought it was time to start modifying the suspension. Went to a different track and she hookedreally well. Went from high 1.9's to mid 1.7's. I have a 5spd, running the 275/40 Nitto's and just have some poly bushings in my stock LCA's. Your shocks could be worn out as well. Good luck!


Dang Paul, did you go darkside on me!! I just got finished with last round of mods, BTW. Seems to run a bit stronger on the topend. The last time I drove it was in January. Probably be a while before I get to the track though.

TTA 1387, I go through the water and do about a 8-10 sec burnout.

David, this is same track that Paul ran his 1.88 60' with the same car only different tires and a different driver. And I for damn sure know its not the driver thats the problem, so its gotta be the tires!

I wasn't getting any spin or hop last time I ran when I was launching off idle, so I guess I can try to be more aggressive with it next time and see what happens.

And no Paul, I'm not putting those headers on this car! Those are for the black car!

I have the 245 nittos and pull 1.90 60s. I run 18psi bring it up to 2000 with my 3200 tc, but you need to heat the heck out of them

relocation brackets could help, they correct the suspension geometry if the car is lowered, but everything indicates that they help even if the car is at stock ride height, and as cheap as they are, they're worth trying, they don't eliminate the stock bolt holes, atleast not the spohn brackets, so you can change it back to stock if there's no improvement

New shocks will fix the wheel-hop.

Try rolling into the throttle and running lower pressures with a 5 second burnout, shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd and rolling out of the water box in 3rd. I cut 1.8's with street tires doing this.

I do consistent 1.9s on nitto street tires (not dr) - I just lowered the pressure to 17psi, drove around the waterbox and do long dry burnouts (10-12 sec)