Just thought I'd start a different topic since the one for the pictures of my engine went towards BBC headers.

I looked at those Ed Quay headers on Ebay. $500 to Buy it Now works out to about $630 Canadian plus shipping, brokerage fees etc. It's say they could probably be in my hands for about $750 Canadian. Not a bad deal really considering a set of Lemon headers is closer to $1500 and these are already coated except the collectors.

I wish he put together the passenger side set. I saved the enlarged photo as reference. Those are 2-1/4" headers that stay inside the frame. The listing states that Ed Quay motor mounts or a front motor plate is required. It also says an aftermarket steering shaft is required. These headers will work with a factory crossmember with some minor modifications but an aftermarket crossmember is recommended. It looks like that third tube will cause the most problems. It probably curves around enough that the steering shaft won't go by and it looks like it loops around and goes down in front of the suspension/crossmember A-arm mount. Still look a lot better than those garbage Hooker swap headers.

I see in the picture that the tubes are all slip-on in the collector and the flanges have all been cut. This is a good pic for me to use as reference when I finally get around to building some big tube headers but I'd still like to just build some 2-1/8". My engine just isn't big enough and I don't use a power adder to justify 2-1/4" primary tubes.

Here's the picture since it will disappear from Ebay eventually.

I sent an email to the seller asking to see a mockup of the passenger header. He say's they're all packed up ready to ship. He described the tubes though. Only the #6 cylinder tube goes over the frame. The rest go between the engine and the frame.

I suppose if I cut more of the floor/firewall away I wouldn't have to feed any of the tubes over the frame.

Stephen, If you really want a picture of the passenger side header I'll unpack them and mock it up for you since you helped me out with what I need to do about lightening my doors. Let me know and I'll take the picture. I didn't know it was you that was asking.

That's OK. Your description was enough to give me a good idea of how they look. If you have the time and don't mind, A picture would still be nice for reference. At least if I have some pics, I'll have an idea on routing when I finally get around to building my own set. Personally, if the 2-1/4" would work with my car, I'd put a bid on your headers. I just need that 8-71 blower to go with them. As I mentioned above, they're too big for me but I hope someone bids on them since that is a good deal. Why are you selling them?? Going turbo?

So now you know my Ebay alias

You got it! 101mm air/water intercooled!! I'll get that picture for you tomorrow. Oh yeah, and I went with the Profiler 12* heads so I couldn't use the headers if I stayed w/ nitrous anyways.

101mm!! That's a monster. So you're going to have to fab up a system line Deimos140's. I'd consider turboing mine but with 13:1 pistons, it leaves for very little boost. There's just something about having that tunnel ram sticking out of the hood though.

Deimos140's post couldn't have come at a better time. It gave me some ideas on what's going to have to be done. It's going to be a little tighter fit with a big block instead of a small block. I'm going to have to use a 45cc dished piston to get the compression down to 9.2:1 w/ the Profiler 60cc chambers.

there is a guy here local that has a single domiinator roller 468 in his camaro.he swapped from the 1 7/8 hookers to quay 2 1/4 and dropped 2 full tenths.

i think they would help yours also.

Stephen, I emailed the full size pictures to you. Hope you don't mind. Let me know if they come thru ok.

The swap he dropped 2 tenths but if he went to 2" or 2-1/8" you never know if he could have dropped more. The biggest factor for me is altitude. Because a typical race day here is around 5000' DA, I lose a lot of HP. With the reduced HP, I don't need such a big exhaust.

Yes I got the pics and they look excellent. I replied by email already. I'd love to have them if I could justify going to 2-1/4" primaries.

Some of the specs on my 2005 engine.

469 CID
Canfield 310 or 320 aluminum heads. Never really figured out the proper size.
2.25I/1.88E valves

Erson solid roller camshaft E129894
I/E .740 lift
LSA 108
Duration @ .050 274/278
Advertised 302/306


This is what the catalog lists it as

E.T. Brackets/Super Street/Super Gas. 454-502 CID engines in full bodied cars or roadsters. 13.0-14.0:1 compression ratios, good heads, single open plenum-style manifold with 1,050 cfm carburetion, alcohol or gas.

Rpm range is 4500-7500

Another thing I never considered until now. I'm under the impression I don't need the 2-1/4" primaries because the engine isn't big enough and I don't use a power adder. What I forgot to consider is that I'm using a tunnel ram to feed as much air into the engine as I can. With the two 850 carbs, that makes 1700 CFM entering the engine. Maybe I do need those 2-1/4" primaries

OK. I set Ebay to watch your headers since the auction is almost over. After writing all this, I really think they may work for me because of the tunnel ram. I have less than 2 days to decide if I'll bid. That gives me some time to make inquiries about header size with the tunnel ram.

Of course if I do bid and win them, you'll need to get a shipping quote to send the to Canada if you'll do that. The listing says USA only. I'd pay with paypal through my CC.

Not a problem. If they don't sell on Ebay and you decide you want them, just let me know. I highly recommend using a aftermarket k member though. Never have shipped anything to Canada. How much more involved is it?

I finally found a web site with some great auto math scripts.

http://www.extreme-auto-parts.com/engine-calculator.asp

Going to the section on header dimensions I inputed my specs.

Stroke: 4"
Bore: 4.320
Exhaust valve opening point: 99* ATDC
Peak power rpm: 7500

The results say my header tubes should be 2.31" (more than 1/4 but less than 3/8). Tube length should be just over 28-1/2" and the collector should be almost 4-1/2".

So according to this info, those Ed Quay headers whould work just fine. Just goes to show what everyone "says" about big tubes killing low end power. All the formulas I've seen always recommend tube length in relation to diameter but none say what diameter is best. The larger the tube size, the shorter the tube length needs to be which will create the same results.

I bought the Ed Quay headers from bjm323

You did??? I don't remember receiving any money. LOL! Headers are indeed sold. Hope you get some good use out of them. Thanks Stephen.

Careful or I might steal your avatar.

Can the headers be installed with the engine in the car?

well your welcome for me bringing his headers to your attention.and i told you the header size would work.

Oh yeah, Thank you onefast85 for the heads up about the ebay ad. Now, I got to go buy some more turbo stuff. LOL!! Thanks again.

Stephen, With an aftermarket k-member they can. LOL! I think you might be able to get them in but you are going to have to modify the k-member some anyways so yank that sucker out!

Sounds like it's going to bring back memories of trying to fit the Hookers years ago. I think I pulled the engine 5-6 times before I got them to fit. It's easier to pull now.

Oh the modifications I need to do now! I got the headers today and they look great. Each tube is seperate. I decided to do a test fit tonight with the passenger side. This is not going to be an easy installation into my car. It looks like I'll need to drop the engine down 2-3" just to get the collector under the floor or do some major surgery to the floor and part of the front subframe.

Looks like it's time to get a PARacing crossmember.

I'm glad they showed up undamaged. I've had some trouble with UPS in the past. Stephen, You need to use Ed Quay mounts or motorplates with those headers. They lower the motor down in the chassis. Don't forget that the back control arm mounts need to be trimmed down and boxed back in. Of course, if you do get a PARacing k-member, you won't have to do that.

My front motor plate already lowers the engine as far as it will go. The back control arm mounts have already been trimmed for the Hooker headers.

The problems I'm seeing is under the floor. The collector can't go high enough to slip onto the tubes because of the floor and the end of the front sub frame. I might be able to lower the tranny mount to give a bit more room. If it wasn't for #7 cylinder's tube looping over the frame, I'd almost say these headers were designed for a tube chassis but I know they're not.

I'm still considering the PAracing or ProFab crossmember system. I've wanted one for quite a while. The extra weight saving will be nice. I'm to the point now where I can use one and I can also afford it even with the poor exchange rate.