mods in sig
also estimated rear wheel hp

i went hi hi 13's running richer than bill gates if that helps

i just bought a set of single grove irocs that i am gong to nitto or something similar on

ask if more info is needed

 

ive got a air gap,355,750 edelbrock,aluminum heads 202-160,
373 gears, shorty headers,th350 w/3000 stall,mt streets, all msd ignition, and had 36 degrees of timing and ran a 13.7 in a 3480lb
car w/me in it. than i put 150shot on it and it turns 11.70 @115mph... i think i can put more timing in it and get some 13.3-13.4 out of it


hope that helps

 

1 was hopping for high 12s once i get it tuned get used to the track and get the nitto radials

 

I have a very similar combo, and assuming your car is not too heavy, high to mid twelves should be possible. Make sure your transmission is set up properly, meaning it should be shifting at 6200-6400 rpms in order to make the most use of your camshaft. you can either set it up to do that in drive or you can manually shift it. I was doing mid thirteens when my trans was short shifting and high 12's when I got the trans to do what I wanted. Get your timing and tune set up right also. I dont know how well your protop lines flow but my twisted wedges are great for my combo.

btw my rwhp was 311 hp @ 5900 rpms

 

i have a b&m ratchet shifter so i will shift manually.

o and it is a stripper t top no power windows or looks i removed the ac and heater

 

ttt

o and is there any thing i can do to get that 12.0 that i want like a looser stall, better rockers?

 

It sounds like this is not a daily driver, correct? If so, I would go to a steeper gear (like a 3.73/4.11), a 3500-4000 converter and a th350.

Those changes alone should shave 8 tenths to a second or more off your current ET's, they will be the biggest bang for your buck.

Which Pro Topline heads are you running?

If they are 200cc runners or better, I would go with a larger camshaft. You could get away with the XE284 assuming you are running more gear and converter.

If your car is as light as I think it could be, you should be able to run in the high 11's/low 12's no problem. What mph did you get last time you went out? Which heads do you have?

 

this isn't a daily driver but i would like to drive it to school and work and get 18+ mpg

i planed on getting a 3k stall this fall and in the winter switch out the rear end with my tax money

 

If you want to get 18 mpg and run 12.0's nitrous is your best bet. Do you really get 18 mpg now???

 

A 10lb blue bottle is your friend.

 

i get abought 16is mpg runing ritch so when i tune it i am hopeing for 18-20 mpg

i want to run a 2 stage n20 kit run mid to hi 12's na, loow loow 12's first stage, mid 11 second stage

 

I consider myself a nitrous fan, I have looked into progressive kits, dual stage and everything between before I picked up an NOS cheater kit for my last motor.

Keep it simple and run one stage. A dual stage system just increases the chances of a failure and increases costs. Two nitrous solenoids to hang, two fuel solenoids to stick, more wiring to go wrong, etc, etc. Eventually, you will be looking at rebuilding all 4 solenoids (5 if you have a purge) at $30-$40 a piece depending on the manufacturer. Depending on how often you run the system, that could be $200 a year just in solenoid repairs.

Go with one stage and concentrate on hooking it up. One of the biggest reductions you will see in ET running nitrous is the drastically lowered 60' caused by 150-200 ft lbs of additional torque throughout your entire powerband.

 

the thing is i want to be able to run faster than a 12.0 if needed but i don't want a cage or roll bar

wait a tic how hard is it to change the jets in a dim parking lot