used nitrous for the first time...
car: 89 formula LB9/T-5 116k miles
mods: nitrous express universal efi kit (100hp shot)
other: one step colder spark plugs and 93 octane w/ octane booster

boiled the tires off but was impressed with the speed;
stock the car ran 15.1's @ 91-93mph w/2.25 60's

with nitrous ran 14.413 @ 104.68 w/ 2.484 60'
and 14.501 @ 104.90 w/ a freeking 2.851 60'
the autostart was disabled and my reaction times were both over 1/2 a sec.

these were my only two runs. i was using hoosier quick time pros
but way too much pressure, like 18, bottle pressure was only like 600psi too, i dont have a bottle warmer..
i lowered to 15, and swapped in 150 shot jets but didnt get another run.

car still running strong, going to try to get back one last time to break an axle or tranny or something. i would say w/ these speeds its a solid mid 13, if i can get the 60's around a 2.000-2.100...
any advice or comments?

 

Looks like mid-upper 13s just with 100 shot if you can get traction.I think you should get high 14s in that car without the bottle let alone a 14.5 with the spray.Practice launching the car. I can't say much tough I am not great at launching a car with a stick myself. Takes a lot longer to master it with stick of the line then a auto.I ran 18psi on my mt drag radials and once I get the new stall in I am going to try 14-16psi. I thought that 18psi was low enough but from what some people say on the board that running it a little lower might help with my 60ft.I was pretty pissed when I ran my car at the 1/8 mile with a 1.98 with full suspension and the mt's on the back but I thought that my car would stall a little higher.Can't wait to get the edge converter.Practice that launch and your good to go.

 

Isn't nitrous fun???

 

I use to spray the crap out of my old 305/T-5. 192k miles. It didnt like the 150 shot, It went 9.17 (1/8th) on the motor and 8.23 on the 100 shot. I miss the old boat anchor on the street.

 

150 shot on my old 305 was good for 11.80s....but without proper bottle pressure you're jetting will be ALL over the place FYI

 

Yeah what he said... I use to sit mine in the sink with hot water running over it until it got to about 1200 psi, then by the time i got the bottle in the car and made it to the track, it was on 1100-1050ish. Wouldnt hit hard at all below 800psi.

 

just fyi, i've been 12.9x's at 103mph, so if you can get the car to hook, i'd expect better than high 13's.

 

305 n/a 13.1
305 on 150 shot 11.47@116

those were some fun times on that little peanut motor

 

Sticks can be hard to launch consistently- I have not been able to do it yet.

I hope to throw some spray at my 190,000 mile LB9 myself.

 

if i ever get around to putting the good camshaft back in mine, i'd like to see what a 150shot would do for it. it's been 12.50@106.8mph with the solid camshaft and that cam is a 238*/248* 114lsa cam, so it'd LOVE n2o.

 

My MT ET Streets are night and day different between 16 to 12psi. At 16 they are slightly better than good street tires, at 12 the car hooks like mad. I took my 60 foots from 2.0 to 1.8 with just the pressure drop. I was really paranoid to spin the tires in the rim but apparently, it's not happening so knock on wood and let the tires roll. What jets are you using for a 100 shot? I'de say you can break into the 12's with your combo and some jetting, but your tranny probably won't like you for it.

 

for a stick car, use a biasply tire....Ex. ET Streets. a stick car shocks the tires and with a stiff sidewall liek a BFG DR or MT ET Street radial it will spin more than you think.

Get bottle pressure up to 1200PSI, tires down to 13psi, good 5-6 second steady burnout, roll OUT of the box, arm system DONT PURGE. Light goes down, let it eat and see DEEP 13's. good luck!

 

why would you say not to purge? or is that because overly rich bogs are cool?

 

My car usually goes at least a tenth faster when I purge in the burn out box, by that I mean I don't have a purge I spray in the burn out box works pretty well, just make sure your RPM's are up and pulse the button, don't hold it down that's asking for problems.

 

for how cheap a purge kit is, it's safe insurance to run one.

 

I never had an issue....how does a purge make an overly rich bog??? all a purge does is purge air pockets/trash from the system.

Lets just say at 1200PSI, launching at 4500RPM on ET Streets an 04 GT with 4.10's, borla catback, SCT tuned, and lowering springs ran an 11.9x on a 100 shot. It consistantly runs 12.1's/12.2's in 80 degree weather.

Im not nitrous stupid....Ive sprayed not only my car but several of my friends cars. I had a purge on my old car but I only used it for "effect"......when I was racing I never purged.....Hell, when I got down on the street, I usually spent a good 10 minutes with a torch on the bottle so it would be at 1200PSI minimum. Launching off that high bottle pressure is NICE.

Nitrous manufacturers recommend 950PSI....thats too low for me, especially 1/4 mile cause youll be LOW on bottle pressure when you cross the traps.

 

The purge is just going to make the system perform much more consistantly. You better get a bottle warmer on that thing it is dangerous running without one!

 

I hope you were meaning the torch heating was dangerous, not that running a bottle without a heater is dangerous izcain. I don't think it's particularly dangerous but it will slow you down. Why would you say not to purge in the first place? If you're thinking along my lines you want the shot to come on soft so it doesn't shock the tires. If so that's fine you can get away with not purging. Really you can always get away with it but why? You'll most likely go faster if you do purge.

 

I dont purge because its never helped me or my friends out to be honest. It just wastes good Nitrous...and every little bit counts.

I know how a purge supposedly works but my systems have ALWAYS hit hard...Here's my question:

what kit/brand are you using???

I ALWAYS use NX. Best brand out there, hands down. HARDEST HITTING kits around. Proof???

My best friends 2004 GT laid down back-to-back 120 RWHP GAINS on a Dynojet. another friends 2001 Cobra laid down 118 RWHP gains on the 100 shot. Then my friends 2000 SS got 121 RWHP gain followed by a 123 RWHP gain. MY CAR got 150ft/lbs of torque gains WHILE BLOWING A HEAD GASKET AND SHOOTING WATER/ANTIFREEZE EVERYWHERE!!!

NX kits hit hard....NOS kits are nice quality but they just dont hit nearly as hard as an NX kit. Im actually about to get the NOS plate and use some NX solenoids with it just because I like how they hit.

BTW< contrary to popular belief, torch heating is NOT that dangerous, done correctly. In fact, of all the Nitrous people I know, only liek 2-3 run bottle heaters. We normally just torch them up to pressure.

 

Yes I meant about torching the bottle lol....... Although you will never get the full potential out of your system if your bottle is not to temp. I also saw a guy at the track have an intake backfire because he was not running the bottle warm and it made the system run rich and got puddling in the intake manifold. So I guess it's wether you want to take a chance or not over a 100 dollar part. I for one like the added insurance with my system.

 

The single most important factor in how hard hitting your nitrous kit is is the length of line between the solenoid and the nozzle. Nozzle design also is important. NOS solenoids use a .073 orifice in there nitrous solenoids which is small compared to other brands but any of these solenoids, bottles, etc. will hit just as hard if kept at or below there rated flow, and with equal lengths of line between the solenoid and injection point. Also hitting hard ISNT A GOOD THING! Making power is a good thing but hitting hard isn't good on a street car, shock = bad. My Camaro runs as well as it does because it has about 2 foot of line between the solenoid and the plate; if I took that down to 6in it would hit way harder but that's not what I want, I want a good smooth transition from N/A to nitrous power levels. Don't get me wrong, a harder hitting system will shave some time off on a slick weilding drag car but it's not good on a street strip car. With a kit that does hit harder the need for a purge is less apparent and you'll probably see some benefit from softening the hit up by not purging, also system with a larger shot won't need a purge as much because it will self purge faster. As for torch heating a bottle, I wouldn't do it because hot water is so cheap, but I'm not going to flame anyone for doing it, I just can't recommend it to anyone as a conscientious racer, and I won't stand next to anyone doing it just in case.

 

well, heres new numbers from saturday, the 14th.
(89 formula LB9/T-5,9 bolt rear w/ stock gears-3.08s?, 116k miles, only mods are hoosier quick time d.o.t. slicks, descreened MAF, functional ram air hood, and NX universal efi nitrous kit)

100 shot, leaving from like 1300-1500rpms,
60' 1.966
330' 5.559
1/8 mph 82.58
1/8 8.524
1000' 11.072
1/4 mph 105.27
1/4 13.212

and with 150 shot, 14psi in slicks, leaving at 1500rpms:
60' 2.039
330' 5.511
1/8 mph 85.40
1/8 8.391
1000' 10.858
1/4 mph 108.07
1/4 12.939

i was very impressed to run high 12's especially leaving practically off idle.

car still runs good. knock on wood. think the clutch might be starting to slip. (its a brand new stock one)

 

also the bottle pressure was about 600 psi, which from what i hear is no good.


and... i have about 2000 dollars into including buying the car.
1300 for the car with 16x8 toque thrusts, and ram air hood
350 for paint supplies, arctic white
300 for used nitrous kit w/ two full bottles
and about 50 bucks in miscelaneous stuff,
like spark plugs and oil and filter.

 

car pictures and photos at CarDomain.com for some pics

the white T/A and the black T/A on the site were previous cars.

 

nice times, definatly needs a bottle warmer.