Let's see everybody's combo or dyno numbers that are running in the tens!! That's my goal with mine (eventually) and I want to see what everybody's runnin!!

 

You're not going to find a lot of street cars here that run 10's unless they use some sort of power adder.

To run 10.99 in a typical 3500 pound street car, you'll need to get around 575 hp to the wheels and be able to get traction. Reducing the weight to a realistic 3200 pounds, you'll only need 525 hp to the wheels. Those aren't very streetable HP numbers.

 

I never said they had to be streetable!! I just want to see what kind of power numbers people have and how there putting it to the ground to run 10.99 and quicker.

 

 

last 388 ran 10.98 back to back through the pipes on 92 octane and an air cleaner. very very docile, still retained pwr brakes, could sit in traffic all day with zero issues. no idea on hp, never dynoed it, just raced it. i believe it had more in it since when i take a new motor out i tune for best mph, then pull it back out until i lost .2-.3 since for my junk that seems to be the way i can run the number as opposed to watching the air and "predicting"hat it might do...so i think that engine coulda been a 10.8?

all stock shortblock with 12.5:1 slugs, solid roller cam 252/262 106lsa, .625/.625, afr 210 heads, th400, 10" tci 4600 stall that actually flashed 5000 on the hit, 4.11 gear, 28" tire

current engine 427, 13.5:1, solid roller with 4/7 swap 261/266 108lsa, .626/.626, brodix kc 227 100% cnc'd heads, th 400, tried 2 8" convertors and both were waaaay off the mark pegging the tach at 7000 on the hit and carried it all the way down the track, 4.11 gear and 28'"tire. running e85 and going through the same flowmaster 40 series mufflers and 2" air breather ive had for years.

supposed to pick the 427 back up this week if all goes well, we dynoed right at 608hp the first time, am hoping for 630-650 this time, trying a different grind, hogging the heads out. going to order a convertor for this combo, most likely be another 10" case to get flash point low enough for this tank, but i fully expect 10.2-10.3's in the 13?+mph range. I street drove the first version, and this is a race type motor, a complete animal compared to my old 388 which drove as easily as my work trucks-honestly.

make no mistake, unless your power adding, there is no way a sbc will retain street manners at and above 600hp...just aint gonna happen. that's why so many smarter guys build bbc, 600hp is'nt even taxing them or breaking a sweat, attainging a 700hp bbc is about as easy as building a 350hp sbc with todays parts. so if you want to know what it takes, hede this advise above all others-build a bbc, you'll never go wrong, and as cheap as 540-555's can be bought/built...it's a no brainer

 

well my car is not geared for the 1/4, but it went 6.58 tonight foot braking it in the 1/8th. Not sure on the hp, but its a stock 400 block .030 over, 4340 eagle crank with H beam eagle rods, SRP forged pistons, 12:1 comp. Brodix Track 1 heads, Solid roller cam .582 .588" lift, AED 750 alcohol carb Glide with an 8" race 4800 stall BTE converter. Should be good for some 10's with a 4.30 gear. I usually pro tree race but weather was too good to sit at home tonight so i tried the footbrake class at the local track. Car went 6.604, 6.591, 6.587, 6.591, 6.586, 6.585, and then a 6.594 on the brakes over the stripe.

 

I agree to some extent but it can be done and has been done many times. For instance there are alot of ls1 guys that are running deep into the 10's in very streetable cars with not much done.

My car is a cam only ls1 that is running 11.20's right now and thats still with the stock intake, bone stock shortblock(stock rod bolts), stock heads, stock compression, stock ign, stock injectors ect. I am running 11.20's with a nitrous converter that is so lazy off the line high 1.7 60' off a trans brake. with a looser converter and some 1.4 60' times i would be running 10.80's maybe a little faster. My car weighs in at 3570 with me in it. I am only running 4.11's also, im sure 4.30's would help out as well as i am crossing at 5600 and i shift at 6800.

My car is extremely streetable, never gets hotter than 170ish even in 100 degree weather. I get about 16 mpg city, maybe more but i have a very heavy foot. All on 93 octane.

There are alot of cam only and heads cam ls1's that are running 10's all day long with race weights around 3500.

I think one of the best combo's out there that basically guarentee's low 10's would be a iron truck block based ls1 motor with a decent cam and l92 heads, they flow well over 300cfm stock from gm. your looking at an easy 550rwhp that runs like a stock motor. and decently cheap too. 1500 for a good shortblock. 1000 for complete assembled heads, 400 for a cam and 500 for intake, fuel injectors, tb, and rail. so for around 4000 you could have a bad *** street motor that runs deep into the 10's.

This combo might be my winter project as well. I am not saying that lsx based engines are the way to go but they do have great streetability. You could do the same with a sbc based set up too. Its all about matching the right parts together.

 

6.61@102 in the 1/8. stock LT1 with mild head work, and a 230/236 cam. leaving with a 125 shot off the footbrake. ~3,000-3100lbs.

 

Is the car in you're avatar the one you're talking about? If so , that's MOVING for such a mild LT1!(it's still mivin' even if it doesn't raise the fronts like that!)

 

I am currently in the process of building my car. the motor I am currently building for it is:

383ci 3.750" stroke 4.030" bore
Forged bottom end
Scat H-beam rods
10.9:1 comp
edelbrock Victor Jr. heads
Victor Jr. intake
BG 750 mighty demon carb
csi water pump
Comp pro magnum 1.6 rockers with stud girdle
Comp custom ground cam with:
254* intake at 0.050 and 0.661"lift
260* exhaust at 0.050 with 0.651" lift. 106*LSA

The motor is built and currently awaiting it's appointment for a dyno session. i am hoping for around 550hp. I am only planning on spinning it to about 6700rpm. I am just working on the chassis now. i have 28x10.5 MT ET streets, and will be running full spohn suspension. My race weight with driver will be appr. 3350 with driver. I will be running a built th350 trans with but I can't decide on what stall converter would be best. I do still want to drive it to the odd show n' shine and down the blvd on cruise night once in a while and high stall (like 4500 or 5000) worries me as won't I run into tranny overheating issues? Any recommendations? My goal is a 10.99 with a 200 shot on 110 fuel and run mid 11's on the motor with 91 octane. I will be running a moser 9" with 4.10 gears in the rear. Any predictions?

IHI : I have a question for you. Do you have any problems running that much comp. on pump gas? i take it the cam is allowing you to blead off enough cylinder pressure to run pump gas on the street, but doesn't it detonate when you put a load on the engine at the track?

 

The 388 had a low dynamic compression...thinking it was 7.? something hence running faster with 92 octane vs the 110 I ran for racing...it just smelled so much cooler but realistically i did not need it and car was faster with lower octane, so yes, the combination allowed enough bleed off.

Realistically you could get a 10" case or possibly a 9" case converter and still retain daily driver type characteristics stop light to stoplight, but get the higher flash point you need at the track. I was running a TCI 10" converter rated at 4600 behind engine we speced it for, but flashed 5000 in my car....it drove just like a daily driver until you hit the loud pedal and driving around town it would never go over 120*...even racing I had to sit on the t brake to get temp upto 160* before making a pass, was'nt unttil going round robin in later rounds tranny retained heat I had built up. Going with a 8" converter on the street with a high flash point is where they start to get goofy since they slip soo much on the bottom end the do build heat quicker, but most of my buddies have dual purpose cars like mine and yours with no tranny overheating issues even with 8" cases, but just know you could get a 10" converter to get your flash point where you need it and still have great driveability.

A few things with your combo I dont like, granted it should still run well, but could be better. the compression you've given is very low for the duration of your cam, with valve overlap like you'll have your losing compression on an already "low" compression engine...low for the overall engine specs, slugs should've really been a 12.5:1 or at least a 12.0:1, that would've kept everything working together alot better. What's gonna happen is out of the hole it's gonna kind of be a turd-which is'nt a bad thing on crappey prepped tracks-but once you get'er up above 45-5000 she's gonna feel like you just pushed the accelerator down a little further.

The heads are good, but not really the best choice. I had 2 buddies I race with initally start out with edelbrock like yours and cars never really ran what we thought they should've run. the winter after season end's they took them in to get worked on, and they removed ALOT of material to get flow numbers that IMO are respectable for an aftermarket aluminum head. Just another case of false advertising like dart/brodix to sell a product. after dropping $800 in one case and $1200 for the other set of edelbrocks, they finally got them to flow into the 280cfm range at peak lift (.650) on the flow bench. Better than old iron, but alot to be desired for the money.

Lift on the cam is pretty robust, meaning the peak lift is pretty tall for a sbc. Nothig wrong with that since the lobe will be pretty aggressive and allow more air in sooner and a bit more air, but the cost is gonna be you having to keep an eye on valve springs. The cam that is being installed in my 427sbc right now is the biggest I've ever run in a sb with a .630 lift both sides. It's borderline IMO between getting good performance and having long life out of the valvetrain without taxing parts/wearing them out. If your compression was alot higher, heads flowed better and combination was for max effort, replacing valve springs once a year is'nt a big deal, some guys do it twice a year, but since your building for dual purpose fun, IMO-and take it with a grain of salt-it's putting undo stress on parts and going to cost you more for upkeep in the long run.

the 388 had a baby lift at .625 both sides, and in 1800+ passes and approx. 5-6K street miles I only lost 40lbs of pressure....so it did exactly what i wanted it to do, go fast and low maintenance.

One last thing, I know most dyno room guys will tell you the 750 is perfect for your combo, we actually dynoed the 383 in our S10 that made 550hp with a 750 and engine was onlu pulling 670cfm @105% VE, I asked them to try a larger carb and it did drop hp and swung tq curve around a bit, but we finally were able to put my 950HP on the truck on the track in REAL LIFE situation and guess what, .15 and 1.98mph consistantly per pass there after.

If you already have it, run it, but to go fast on a drag strip, forget any hot rod magazine you ever read, they'll do nothing but have you throw your money away since you'll be buying the stuff you should've bought the first time later. Hard to guys convinced about this "phenominom" but I see it every year new blood comes to the track, "magazine said this or that" them articles dont mean a darn thing for going as fast as possible in real life, if that's what your after.

 

What cam would you recomend? I could tame the lift down a little by switchng to the 1.52 rockers I got. I do want it to be a reliable motor. I know for all out drag cars replacing the springs once or twice a year is ok, but for me, the valve lash adjustments are the only thing I want to worry about for a while. But then again I know that will never be the case! I havn't built a car yet that didn't go through it's initial problems during setup and tuning! I used 0.072 head gaskets so that if I found it needed more compression I could use a thinner head gasket to bump the compression up a bit. Your right though, the low dynamic comp. would make it a slug off the line, I'm just worried about it detonating in the upper rpm range. High compression and pump gas makes me nervous, lol!

Thanks for the recommendation on the converter, that is exactly what I want! I'm sure with a big trans cooler I shouldn't run into problems.

So do you think I'll run near my expectations? Do you think switching to the 1.5 rockers would help keep a little of the cylinder pressure in the chamber?

 

Buy a converter after the engine has been on the dyno. A dyno sheet is the first thing they'll ask for when you buy a new converter. Don't bother with an off the shelf converter.

 

First off, if you have the means to engine dyno do it, it will be the best $300 you'll ever spend when it comes to putting this engine together, once you do it, you'll never ever not do it. That way, like Stephen said, you can call and get the converter built to your needs, and they'll want to know exactly where peak tq takes place since this is where they'll shoot for a flash point. Off the shelf is fine for a average car that is'nt out to maximize it's combination, but make no mistake, your torque converter is every bit as important as your heads...seriously, a converter can make or break a combination. There are alot of cars out there that could be faster if they installed the proper converter.

Dont ask me for a cam, I can get you a better grind for your combo than where your at, but you really need to call the cam company and let them pick one out, they deal with this day in and day out and have alot more inventory to pick from so your combo comes out ideal. So is your 10.9:1 compression figured on a normal .039/.041 head gasket or did you figure that off the .072? if the 10.9 is based of the normal gasket thickness .039/.041 then step your duration @ .050 down into the 248/250 range, have it ground on a 106LSA and keep lobe lift in the .413 (where your at with a 1.5) to a .417...it makes it sound lumpey on a 106 (typically installed between 102-104), but it also brings the power level back down where a guy can use it without having to spin it to the moon-if you can keep revs at or below 6K it'll live a long long life.

Keeping the lobe lift small also helps with overall valvtrain longevity, the 1.6 rockers are typically a descion a person makes "well as long as I'm buying this, I might as well do that". Doing the 1.6 rockers really does'nt help much at all over a 1.5 both on a dyno, and esspecailly on a race track. I've had multiple freinds try it, and results are 100% the same-no difference. So just order the standard 1.5, save valvespring life and be easier on parts...your wallet thanks you Yes, keeping with a 1.5 over a 1.6 rocker will help retain some cylinder pressure since longer stroke rockers increase the duration ever so slightly since it's opening the valve sooner and keeping it open longer, not much, but a little bit.

Keep in mind too, that your running and aftermarket aluminumhead so your already "1 point lower" for compression sicne they disapate the heat so efficently. That statement is not an exact science, but is generally accepted, couple that with the fact you will not have to have a bunch of lead to light things off due to more overall effeicent design. All the aluminum sbc engines we've played with have never been over 34* for peak power no matter what the fuel.

I think you'll be in the mid 11's N/A and low 11's to high 10's on the juice.

 

yup, thats the car. on motor it went a 7.13@97.8, same day.
it should still go faster, since it was still pretty rich on the jetting. but, i intend to spray it with the 200 shot and hopefully run a 9.70-9.80 before its all said and done.

 

Typically going from a 1.5 roller rocker to a 1.6 roller rocker will gain you about 5 hp on the dyno. You won't feel that while driving around. Unless you're building an all out race engine where the extra lift can help, you can get a cam grind using 1.5 rockers to give you the same performance as a lower grind with 1.6 rockers.

A cam grind isn't just about lift. Duration, valve timing, overlap and LSA all play a part in the cam profile. Different cams with identical lift and duration can perform very differently. Stock eliminator cams have very low lift but can produce a lot of power.

 

dude, you better be runnin low 11 to high 10 with that combo..

i have a similar combo with weaker heads, less compression and .592/.555 with 260*/260* @ .050" lift solid flat cam.. i'm runnin 11.65 with a hurt motor and no traction.. crazy blowby on #3 cylinder and 1.69 60fts..

 

Not trying to argue by any means - But that number has been thrown around way to much and is way off for RWHP! But very close for Flywheel..
In a effecient 3500 lb street car you only need about 430-440 to the wheels.
Being about 540-580 flywheel. My prevoius thirdgen which was very streetable weighed 3440, bested ET 0f 10.87 NA and had more at elevation..
Actually went to maryland once to get new best, trans was slipping and matched my best..
I think alot of your numbers steven you judge from corrected dyno figures vs what the car runs at your 5000 ft elevation maybe..

That same engine now resides in my 94 with 6-speed which has bested 11.1 @124 - pleny enough mph for 10s but the car is just not effecient yet.. And still using 10 bolt which requires me to slip clutch as opposed to leaving real hard.. That car weighs around 3550.. those weights are with driver..
with an auto, I would still be there.. I would like to DYNO soon, but know it will only be around 430ish.

 

450rwhp in an nmra pure street car goes 10.30's.

 

most my combo in in the sig. i have a real soft leaving converter. when i ordered it 5 years ago was a compleatly different engine combo. on motor it has 1.65 60 foots and 1.5 leaving on spray. last time at the track i ran a 6.56 @ 110.4 in the 1/8 with a 1.58 60 foot.

my car likes 42* of timmiing. when i tried going 36* i lost 38 rwhp!