Ok this is back in september . Let me say it was a lot harder then I thought . Wheel spin I belive is my bigest problem . Hear is my best et.

Reaction .680
60 foot 2.125
330 6.224
1/8 mile 9.721
1/8 mph 72.14
1000 foot 12.676
1/4 mile 15.157
1/4 mph 91.43
I had one other run at a better mph(93) but slower time (15.3)

I belive I have enough motor to get me in the 14s but want some cheep ideas to get me thier .Quick run down on the car

Strong running 85 iroc ,gm crate 350, T-5 , hedders, no cat ,edelbrock cat back exhaust ,600cfm carb & peformer intake both edelbrock, youkon 373 rear
.
Suspension umi lca poly steel combo , umi sfc's ,umi weld in relco brackets edelbrock adjustible T-arm ,and tonkico 1.25 lowering springs .


I know I probley have the worst tires on an Iroc ,but they wer almost free , they are some kind of china made M+S tire . My best time was at 18 psi . I have a lot of other stuff done to the car but I do not think it applys hear .Its set upmore for autocross . I would like to keep my srings so any other combo is good . Cam , drag radials ect. Thanks

 

cheapest thing is working on your reaction time, but after that i would probably think about getting slicks/DRs, pretty much the wider the better w/ those. Also if you have an open differential you should probably get a locker or at least some kind of limited slip. Also you might be able to advance your timing a little to get a little extra out of your motor.

 

That's the best thing I can hear anyone say. I always laugh when I'm up in the grandstands listening to people talk about the cars going down the track. It's not as simple as it looks.

As for traction, street tires belong on the street. Any kind of sticky tire will help. Old slicks even if they're free are not worth it. Buy some new slicks and get your 60' times into at least the 1.9's. Get a posi if you don't already have one.

 

Reaction time has nothing to do with your ET.


If you're stuck on street tires for now, roll into the throttle quickly instead of stomping it through the floor. Helped me quite a bit and got my old 305 from a tire spinning 15.8 to a 15.21.

 

I have an eaton posi . This motor I have now just has to make another year or so . That said ,I have know problem putting some cash in it say 500$ with some new tires say a total of 800$ . Would it be better to find some 15" z28 wheels and skin them, over my 16" irocs ( with disk rear). I want to try to keep it stock looking at a glance. I have an MSD 8360 dizzy with blaster 3 coil and 6al box sitting in my garage . I was saving for a 383 but it just not going to happen this year. I do not belive the MSD stuff will make much of a differance over my non cc dizzy , without other mods. I will put it in just for the hell of it though .Anny money I put in this motor is kind of a loss its due for rebuild.

 

MT drag radials 255\60-16 on the IROC wheels App. $320 shipped from summit , jegs plus mount and balance

I went from 1.95 60' on street tires to 1.7 on tires alone .

stock l98
headers w/dual 2.5 dynomax ultraflow mufflers
electric water pump
manual steering box
built TCI 700r4 trans w/app 2000 stall (not checked on a real tach yet)
moser 12 bolt 3:73 torsen posi

best of 13.43 w 1.7 60 ' @ 99mph

first run ever all stock 14.77

 

What RPM's are you shifting at, and where do you think your redline is? Play with your timing and carb settings a little

 

5spd for traction = bias ply et streets or et drags. get those and hold on. you got everything else you need to make them work.

 

What is the lowest psi you can safely run, a set of DR's at the track .
This years mods will be Line lock , DR's Mt or Bfs and will put my MSD 8360 in place of my beat HEI .

 

As long as the Hei is in good working order you probly wont see a diffrence swaping to the msd. You could just get a high output coil for it and let it go. Be careful with the t5 there not strong at all.

 

thats a messed up time, i ran a 9.6 1/8 mile(little more than a 1/10 faster than your 1/8 mile) with a 305 TBI, and i lost traction like crazy off the line, that motor seems like it should be stronger than that...... and he is right RT has nothing to do with your ET......

react .1961
60ft 2.2399
330ft 6.5879
594ft 8.9389
1/8 9.6328

305 TBI
Custom Burned Prom
MSD Blaster Coil
Blue Streak Cap & Rotor
Accel Wires
A/C Delco Rapid Fires
No Emissions
Full 3" Exhaust Flowmaster 80 (no cat)
Open 10" round 4"high K&N Breather
Factory Restrictions Removed Out Of TBI
Drag Strip 700R4
Still running stock manifolds (my headers look pretty in my garage)
Stock Size Wore Out Street Tires
2.73 Single Tire Fire
Shifted At 4600 (was having issues with rachet shifter that night)
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that was my first and only run, may be better if the track was bone dry also
i agree, he needs to prob shift later and mess with timing and carb

 

from experience... the cheapest upgrade as of now to go faster is seat time. One of my buddies went down to the track for the first time in with his 5 speed 5.0 (like everybody else) and ran a 15.0. One of my other friends who has been drag racing for a long time jumped in and ran a 13.3. Thats about as much first hand proof as you can get.

 

A nitrous kit would run you less than $500 and give you the biggest bang for your buck.
Just my

 

not if you don't have traction...

 

he should be running better times with that set up he has bottom line, maybe it driver problems, maybe its something tuned wrong.......either way that car should be faster

 

I would say tuning issue.
His times and mph are nearly identical to what my LG4 was running.
Looks like the motor is only putting out about 175-190rwhp.
60' 2.126
330' 6.176
1/8 9.582
MPH 73.11
1000' 12.466
1/4 14.943
MPH 91.67

 

The car sounds like its down on power. Either there is a problem with the setup or there is a problem with the tune. That is, if it IS in fact a 350. Hook it up to the dyno and a wideband and see whats going on.

 

Wow you guys are killing me . Yes this 350 is old and beat, but it still makes great power . I gess you all did not read about me beaing a first time strip runner or the fact that I have CHINENES MUD & SNOW TIERS on it . That felt like they wer spining well into 3 gear . If anyone would like to see one of my runs go to you tube and type in (speedplay76) , Ther is one vid of me getting killed by an ls1 camaro and one of me doing some donuts . The one with the donuts has good sound . Then if you still want to bash my ride go ahead .

 

Look under theys names instead of smoking junior on youtube

speedplay76 me geting killed by ls1

jophis533 me doing some donuts enjoy

 

my truck went 17s and 9.8s in the 1/8th with its first small block on street tires and a 283 that was stock.

now runs 9s and is still a street truck

hopefully with the turbo setup it will run mid to high 8s. and be evan more streetable.

 

Zepher you are probly on the money with rwhp 190 . The motor at the crank with long tube headers only made 260 when new .

 

Who said we were bashing? I stand by my statement, the car should be going faster than a 93mph trap speed. All things considered, you should be close to 100mph. 7mph is a good bit of speed lost. If you want to stick your head in the sand thats your problem.

 

DR's are not such a good idea with stick cars.. run a MT ET street or hoosier QTP.. much better with a stick.. trust me, i used radials first and will never go back unless its my everyday street tire.. i used to run 11psi safely on a 275/50-15 MT ET radial.. might have even creeped down to 10psi..

 

maybe the converter is too loose. loosing some mph

 

Questioning whether my car has a 350 in it or not is a blow . You mite as well call me a lier or an idiot .Was bought bran new in 1987 and has never bin rebuilt .
The ls1 camaro in the other lane only ran 14.1 at 98.5, you think I could of beat him with a better tune on the car with mud +snow tiers
Ok I know I should take the cotton out of my ears and put it in my mouth .The car runs the way it runs , what I am trying to get at is PSI, pinon angle , launch rpm , type of tiers, shift points , should i put my stock springs back in stuff like that .Telling me to hook my 21 year old motor to a dyno is a wast of money that could go to a rebuild . Thank you and I am greatfull for all the help from everyone.

 

Disregard the 350 comment, wrong thread. Another guy in a similar thread mentioned he didnt know if he had a 350 or a 305. I confused them.

I cant see from here, but what kind of elevation are you at?

Still regardless, I would put it on a dyno with a wideband and check the A/F under heavy load.

 

Thats a good ? any one know the elavtion of Lebanon Valley Ny . It cant be more the a 1500' ABS .You know I would have it dynoed, if I new I was not going to rippet off . A lot of scum around hear . The valve seals are on thier way out and my hei is played . I do have this MSD 8360 sitting in my garage for the last 10 years waiting for its day . I think I will put this on and tune it up , I sure I can pick some power . Please understand I have bin trying to kill this motor befor it evan landed in my camaro in 1996, it just runs and runs.I need it this year more the ever . I drive this car 90 miles one way to the track.

 

he's runnin a manual.. converters are for autos

 

Speaking of manuals, what kind of clutch and how old is it?

 

yea he needs a good clutch to put that power to the ground....... you may be headed in the right direction here

 

(what kind of power )It is a new Zoom clutch with very low miles and it is not sliping.You know this car is verry heavy I would say about 3700 lbs. Out on the highway this car pulls hard from 65 to 130 mph killing stock mustangs from the 80's to late 90's .

 

I donno, something just doesnt look quite right. Your 1/8th mile is slow with a seemingly good trap speed, your ET is right on time with the 1/8 mile run. And your trap is on cue with your ET.

Its like the car has a really strong midrange and no top end.

 

That sounds about right real strong mid range with nothing on top .It stops making power around 45-4800 anything after that is just abuse .Would a ton of wheel spin do this to my time. At the 1/4 mile line this thing is about to pop at 52-5400 rpm in forth . I should try shifting sooner and maybee grab 5th .(373 rear)

 

Maybe try shifting into 5th........still seems like you are losing power somewhere in your set up, the figures say you should have about a 650 CFM carb so you are close enough with yours, i would say a better cam would help you out some.. maybe put some 1:6 rockers on it

like i said before i find your time wierd givin the small amout of mods i got and what my time is especialy with my 2.73 gears......me and a friend have v6 accords that will run aprox 14.3 in the 1/4....and all they have is a short cold air intake

i know you may of anwsered it before, but what brand of carb and dist are you running

do you have a vac gauge, if so hook it up to a vac port and tell me what kind of vac reading you have at an idle

 

I'll agree with most, it sounds like you arent making much power (compared to what you should be).

-Check your timing
-Check your plugs and wires

Do you know what heads are on it? You may wanna buy some vortec heads (CHEAP) and get a decent cam. You should be able to find some vortec heads in the junkyard for around $200, then invest in some valve springs and a decent cam. I think with a decent set of heads and a cam, you should be low 14's all day long.

Your trap suggests you can hit solid 14's, so check out your engine and keep trying!

 

89rs82z you may be on to somthing . My vac read 0 at 750-800 rpm if I pick up the idle to a grand it reads about 5 . My carb is edelbrock 1405 600cfm and my dizzy is a stock ncc HEI . I have my vac line connected to the pass side port on the eddy, and it will not pull anny vac intill I give it some gas . Other then that it pulls nice vac up to 18-20 befor it starts to drop off .
Heads are stock iron anchors

 

i think you got the vac line hooked up right, i know my car runs 21in hg at idle on a full vac port, a good running SBC should run 17-22in hg at idle on the full vac port...... try hooking your gauge up to a full time vac port (like the one for the brake booster or HVAC) and tell me your #'s, is the needle steady or does it flutter, if it flutters between what numbers does it flutter on, you can find alot out with a vac gauge

you got a vac advance dist......is it in good shape, all new components??

i wish you were local, so i could see the car run, and tinker with it, its hard to say without being able to look at it, but you seen my 1/8 mile time with what i have up above, you should be handing me my you know what LOL