Almost getting the car on the road finally and was wondering what you guys think it will make for power and run for a time. The motor is a 350 bored .060 over with 10.5 CR, AFR eliminator heads, Weiand Team G intake. 750 Mighty demon carb, Hooker 2210 Long tubes(1 3/4 primaries), Cam Motion hydraulic roller cam with 234 238 @ 50 duration and .571 .581 lift. Car I think weighs closer to 3000 without me in it maybe around 3100 though. Have a moser 9" with 4.11's and a tremec tko 600. 275/60/15 micket thompson street radials. I think thats it anythign else just ask. Thanks guys.

P.S. I just bought the cam for my motor and waiting on it to come in and was wondering what gear to run on my distributor. The guy at cam motion told me to run the factory gear for a hydraulic roller motor but my block is pre-roller so I have a mallory HEI and not sure which gear to run. I would only use oil on the cam when installign it beign it is a hydraulic roller now correct? Sorry always installed flat tappets Thanks again for the help.

 

If Cam Motion told you to run a factory distributor gear, then a factory distributor gear should work just fine on their cam. Only the billet cams need something other than a factory distributor gear.

With traction and good driving, you should be in the 11's. How did you get the weight down?

 

I know I need to get that type of gear and I dont doubt them but I just dont know what one to buy for my distributor. I have a mallory HEI distributor. If someone knows the mallory one that I should get to replace the stock one that comes on it can you possibly post a link from summit or something ? The weight is down because I pretty much have nothing extra then needed. All of the usual weight reduction mods are pretty much done. Most are pretty familiar with mw66nova on here and his weight reduction and I have done similar besides he has an aluminum block. I still need to get the car on some scales but that involves driving it lol which I have not been able to do yet. one of these days. Thanks again for the help guys.

 

The one that came on the Mallory distributor is just like the factory gears. It'll be fine.

Ah, yes, very familiar. Would be interesting to hear an actual weight.

 

This is the distributor I have http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MA...n/?prefilter=1. I thought it was for a pre-roller motor flat tappet cam or does it work for both ? I just really want to make sure because I actually want my motor to run and make it on the road this build lol As for the weight if I get everything goign I will drive it by the scrap yard near my house and they have a scale for the trucks I will take advantage of and post the numbers when I get them. Im interested as well.

Has anybody used desktop dyno and drag simulator? I punched in my combo in desktop dyno and imported into the drag program and it is saying I will run like a 10.70 or something crazy. I know it should atleast get into the 11's the question is how far into the elevens it will go. I know the simulation program also uses optimum conditions as well. Just curious as to how close it might be for a simulator? Real life experience anybody...

 

anyone have experience on the distributor gear situation? or real life use of desktop dyno and desktop drag simulation? The distributor question is more important to me now because I want to get this motor back together but it would be nice also to know how close the simulation software can be or not. Thanks again guys

 

The gear that came on the distributor will be fine. Note on the "application" button it lists small and big block Chevys from 1955 to 2000. And, no warnings not to use it with a factory roller cam.

 

to refresh:
all my mech roller cams i have used on the street are Billet steel.. with a prest on cast Gear... (comp cams) so you can use reg dist Gears..

ask to see it this is what they(cam maker did) this makes life Good.

have a car with about the same parts as your's 11.70 /12.20's
all day long... Et streets

im about 2400 feet in the hills above sea lev

 

I think you have enough motor to run low to mid 11's but traction may be an issue.You will also have to spend time on the tune to get the most out of it, then there's also driving.I would invest in a line lock to make your burn outs easier.I have a few friends with 5 speeds and no line lock and they seem to have a heck of a time heating up their tires.

 

Thanks for the replys guys! Just wondering 84firebird383 why you think traction may be an issue? I have seen some serious 60' times on my tires and I have complete aftermarket suspension.

 

Because with a manual you shock the tires more off the line, drag radials just cant handle it. Slicks would help you get off the line alot better.

 

ditto, i just got through talking a buddy of mine into running a full slick versus his mickey thompsons...anything over 3500rpm clutch dump would light the mt dr's up...his 60's improved incredibly when he added the hoosiers.

 

The only problem I have is my car will be mostly street driven so wont most if not all slicks wear very quickly on the street? Should I get the 295/65/15 when I'm done with these tires? or will I still have traction problems with them as well?

 

Your right. I have a friend that cuts 1.53 60's with his big block Lemans with M/T drag radials,but he has an automatic. Another friend has them on his big block nova with a tko 5 speed and because he has no line lock he cant really get a good burn out. So the tires dont get as hot and sticky and he has really bad traction issues.Both cars have a decent drag suspensions.Like a few other posters all ready stated that a manual trans also shocks the tires alot harder and the drag radials don't have the side wall give that slicks do.I would use normal street tires on the street and get some slicks on a diffferent set of rims for the track.The drag radials wont really help that much on the street anyways,not with your 5 speed.

 

You can get a drag radial to hook with a stick you just have to tune the susp and dial in your driving skills. I have a buddy with a 98' TA with a stick and he runs a MT dr 275/60-15 and he slips the clutch at 5000 - 5500 rpm. Pulls 1.60s 60' and he has a pic of his car pullin one wheel. His car has cam, 3.73 gear, lid, intake, long tubes, cat -back, tune, tb/maf, rear susp mods and some weight reductions. Slicks just makes hooking up easier but you can do it with DRs.

 

Big dog chevy thats exactly what I was thinking. I know it will be tougher to hook but to say they wont really hook at all sounds crazy. Also running street tires on the street wont be much different then drag radials??????? I definitly dont agree. My cousin had a very similar motor build as me and street tires didnt even want to hear it but he switched over to drag radials and gained a huge performance. My concern is the car will be driven hard on the street and will probably only be at the track a few times a year at the most because it is about 2 plus hours away from me. So a bigger drag radial in the future such as the 295/65/15 or shoudl I go ET Streets? How are the et streets on the streets lol ? Thanks again guys

 

Well I saw you on the 8.80 thread and you already know what a 275 dr can do (1.36 60' and better). If the car is going to see a lot of street driving and you are going to drive 2 hours to the track with your track tires I still would use a DR. The MT and Hoosiers can hook just as well as a slick with the right tech but are Much more stable on the top end and a lil bit safer if you get caught in the rain. But if you can change tires at the track then get some full out slicks and dump the clutch at 6 grand. lol

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I would trail the car to the track but it will still see a decent amount of local driving on the street so for now I will probably stick with DR's and maybe switch to a slick in the future when I bring it to the track. The car wont be a high mileage car on the street and it will not see any rain so maybe ill run slicks on the street possibly too... I know they are not meant to be on the street but for the miles my car would see it might not hurt but again I might be alright with DR's and a dialed in suspension... time will tell. Thanks again

 

No one said you couldent make dr's hook. Its just that when you slip the clutch and baby it off the line to get them to hook with a manual you arent using the full potential of the car.

Also driving the slicks on the road is a bad idea. Other than the fact that they arent as stable as a street tire the tread compound on the tire wont like heating and cooling that is normal in street driving. They will get hard and wont hook as well at the track

 

Yea I thought I heard thats about slicks on the street. What about these type of slicks http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/MTT3757R.htm. These should hook better for me but these type of street radials might have the same problems on the street as slicks(not this size per say but these type of tires)... I dont know tho... Thanks again

 

I have used ET Streets from the time they came out.. you do get Better Bite.. not has good on the street... as the track.. But it is better.
i run them with 15 psi.. (i dont drive in the rain)

and yes you will have some swishy rear end wiggle But hey they are slicks... they do not get hard with time... heck they will only last 2 summers.. if your Lucky.. ($320) every 2 years.. then sell whats left to the Guys going cheap.. make $40..

chicks dig the look of them wraped up side wall's..

 

the m/t et street drag radials have a stiffer sidewall and will not perform very well when hit with a 7k clutch dump. the m/t et street tires are what you want. they have a much softer sidewall.

auto = stiff sidewall
stick = soft sidewall

i went 1.60 on some m/t et street drs in a bolt on 2000 z28. 4k stall, 373s, 255/50/16 tires on stock snowflake wheels. 3600lb raceweight. stock suspension except removed from swaybar, sfcs, and cracked spohn lcas haha.

edit: i bent the stock torque arm. i think the car would've 60'd better with a chassis mount tq arm and -2* pinion angle as the car was still spinning off the line with the stock junk.

 

ya i dont use a torque arm any more..
went to the wayside way back in 93
it's all south side mech lift bars. and subframe..

car pulles the front end up hard..10"inch for 8'ft 60ft times 1.54
28x12.5 on15 ET STREETS

TAKE it out friday night's for a drive