My previous PB was 10.58@ 129 mph spraying in second gear not out of the hole on a 150 shot. My new PB with the same 150 shot.

60 ft. - 1.543
330 ft. - 4.355
1/8 - 6.673
1/8 mph - 106.34
1000 ft. - 8.680
1/4 - 10.320
1/4 mph - 133.53

I just got a new 3800 stall and didn't know how it would react with the spray, so with a little better 60ft it should fly. The track was coming apart as the night went on though, but I like the MPH.

 

congrats, now you're moving out!

 

Thanks man! Now I have to figure out how to modify my 3" Harwood cowl hood to make it flow better. I had to remove the hood for a clean pass. I already start removing some material from the back of the cowl, so maybe that should help.

 

wow dude, that thing is MOVING! what'd Ed say about the sub 11.50 pass and no bar?

 

hmmm... i run that hood on my car with the accel pro ram.

 

Nothing was said yet, but I'm sure he will next time. The converter worked awesome flashing a little over 3900. I may hit the track again this Friday night to dial in the progressive controller.

 

I'm confused too because I used to have an SS hood with none of the issues I'm having now. I just cut the back portion of the cowl out leaving the bottom portion attached for structure support just like what mw66nova did to his hood. I hope that helps or I'll have to replace it.

 

What if you built a pan with an air bell?

 

I was thinking of building a carb pan too. You know I'm always open to your advise.

 

it's worth about a tenth in my car typically, and i don't even have a very well built pan...just something i built out of an old highway sign, lol!

wish i wasn't working this friday, otherwise we'd head out that way and take video and stuff...

it doesn't surprise me that the converter works well on the hose, since that is what it's built for. too bad it is sluggish on motor...makes for a GREAT street car though, i'm sure!

 

I sent the converter back the following wed the weekend we went to the track. It turned out he never got my specs for my motor so he guessed. The converter was flashing to 3900 on motor not on the spray just like he said it would, but I never got a chance to data log what it flashes on the spray. With more tuning I should see the 9's soon.

 

ah, you never told me that. why did he guess? that seems...shady...should have called you and got your combo. that's wasted time and energy, and trans fluid...

 

Yeah I now right! When I called them about it he just said to send it back, but when I asked him about the build sheet he said "I can't find it right now". He never did find it, but assured me it will flash around 3800-3900 rpm. At least they refunded my shipping and shipped it back no charge. And I recycled my tranny fluid because I just put it in, but changed the filter anyway.

 

Weird, glad he too care of you though.

I'm still waiting on my msd box...

 

I finally figured out my hood issue. It turned out that my lifters were collapsing causing some serious valve float and some contact with the piston, not good. I never had this problem until I replaced my valve springs over the winter, which makes a lot sense because those lifters are stock replacements and my trap speed has been all over the place along with my AFR on the WB. I went with a set Comp Cams short travel lifters PN CCA-15850-16 from summit. Performance should increase with the new valve train. Results this weekend for sure. MCE at Silver dollar this Sat.

 

i wouldnt think collapsing lifters would cause the valves to hit pistons... basically your valves just wont open as much.
were they adjusted incorrectly? basically, if you installed them and added 3 turns of additional preload you might hit some pistons. or bend some pushrods. or valves. or all of the above.

 

Let me shed some light about the motor and yes I know how to adjust valves.

I used factory replacement roller lifters 7 yrs ago with this build never thinking I'll take it past 6200 rpm, boy was I wrong. So it's way past due. This past winter I installed new valve springs and seals to freshen it up a little, with seat pressures 425 open and 130 closed that put even more pressure on those 7 yr old stock lifter plungers especially with the rpm I was taking it too which was 6700. I know I've heard of people running stock lifters that high before,but eventually they will fail! I guess that's the only part I went cheap on this motor. What a mistake, we live and learn!

You are correct if your lifters are collapsing the valve would not open all the way,but on the other hand it would cause them to pump up at higher rpms, so when that happens you just lost valve train control. And if it's real bad the valve could kiss the top of piston due to the valve bouncing off the seat.

Problem solved, the car pulls like a rape ape again and all push rods were all straight.

 

106 to the 1/8th at just a 6.67.. must be coming on good after the 330.

 

your situation is an interesting one.... it was my understanding the lifters can pump up AFTER the springs lose control of the valve. the only other way i can see them pumping up to hold the valve open would be excessive oil pressure.
the hydraulic portion of the lifters have no bearing on the control of the valve.
i run my LS1 car to 7000 pretty often with the stock lifters. havent had any issues with it to speak of.. 233/239 .605 lift cam.
anyways, glad you got it sorted out, looks like its running very well!

 

I never had any issues until now either, but I'll post the results this weekend.

 

Progressive was set at 50% and the rest would come in 1.4 sec later. I'm going to tinker more with it this weekend and hopefully go to a 200 shot.

 

hey craig, plan for friday 5-11 for a tnt night

 

You got it Bro, I'll be there.