I'm headed to the track this weekend and we in the midwest have been getting pounded by high 90's and high humidity. What are sum changes I should make to the car to stay close to normal times? Here are the specs, 11* BTDC and 43.5 PSI fuel pressure. This weekend is not supposed to be as hot (yah right) but just in case.

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87 Z28 305 TPI, Auto, LT-1 cam (@.50 418/430, 194/199, LSA 111), roller timing set, 2.73, Gutted air boxes, K & N fillters, Dyno Max 3" cat back, 8.8 mm spirals, air foil, BFG Drag radials,170* Stat and TB bypass.
Old Best 15.414 @ 87.47.
new best 15.006 @ 89.55.
w/ drag radails 14.6 @ 93
“Fallen But Not Forgotten”

You're not going to run as quick as you have in cool weather by trying to change things on the car for hot weather.

Instead of running 15.0's you may only run 15.2's. As long as it's consistant then you have to live with it. I like looking at A/SA eliminator cars to see how good the air is at each track. These cars are set up to the maximum for performnce. The record is held at an altitude corrected 9.93 in Boise. When you watch them at other tracks when the air is poor they can be as slow as 10.4

If there was some way to make the car faster in hit muggy air then all the NHRA records would be broken when the air is poor. You slow down because the poor air creates a high density altitude. Less air to burn means less HP.

I suppose you could throw a supercharger on the engine to try and force more air into the engine.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

Thamks I wish I could aford the SC.

If you haven't done so, wire your fans(s) in such a way that you can manually turn them on when you want. After you run, pop your hood and turn them on. Let your car sit until it is cool. This will help more than if you don't do it this way.

There is nothing that you can do about the air quality but no one says that you have to run with a hot motor. If you run with a hot motor + bad air quality, you can run as much as .4 higher in your et's. This happened top me last weekend. Once I ran with a cooled down motor my et's improved my .4

Having control of your fans will help cool your motor faster. Good luck.

I have my fan to a manual switch just like Hurst said. Problem is that it doesn't help all that much when you are pulling the hot muggy air across the engine. You just have to accept a lower et when the weather isn't favorable- but really who cares as long as you are consistent and reaction times are pretty much on the money. I just look at it this way- if you have to dial in @ 16.00 becuase of weather or mechanical probs or anything; dial in @ 16.00! As long as you are running 16.00's all day with a close to perfect lite- you'll be the one to advance to the next round. Consistency is key!

And don't forget. When you're running slower because of the weather, everyone else is also running slower.

Yep. This hot weather affects everybody's et's. Last Sat. at the track everybody that I know was running 1-2/10's slower due to the weather. I'm not even going to run this evening unless it really cools off. I'll wait until the Gold Cup Nationals this weekend.

I dealt with terrible weather every time I've taken my 82 Z to the track with the 383. The best weather I've run in all summer long was 88* w/ 75% humidity and a 29.86 baro Since I'm not competing any this year, I've taken a little break from actually going to the track, and have been focusing doing work to the car. I've lost around 100# from it and I have been doing a lot of suspension work -- Spohn LCA Relocation brackets are next on the agenda. There is one advantage to tuning in the summer, though, which is obvisiously if you can get your car to run a satisfactory or impressive time for your set-up in the heat, then you know that it will be faster in cooler, better weather. I have a new cam that I am going to put in the car since my Hyd. Roller quits pulling at 6000-6100, but before I change it, I want to see what I can squeeze out of it with the cam I have now. If losing the 100-150# I plan to drop off the car,and all the suspension work I'm doing gets me a couple of tenths, and wait for good weather, I really feel I will have a low 11 sec street car with a fairly mild Hyd. Roller, which is something I could really be proud of, since I drive the car all around town and to work pretty often. Hell, If I can get 11.20ish by any chance, I may put my BG alcohol Carb on it and shoot for 10's!! probably not, but who knows.

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82 Z28 383, Ported 215cc Dart Iron Eagle Heads 72 cc Comb. Chambers, Comp custom grind Hyd roller cam, Speed Pro .250" domes, Wheeler Motorsports 4340 I beam rods, Eagle 5140 steel crank, Weiand Team G intake, Holley 830 DP, hedman headers
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Best ET:11.60 @ 114.56, w/ a 7.34 1/8 @ 93.50, and a 1.622 60'


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock

Bassett Racing

[This message has been edited by Basett_Racing (edited August 08, 2001).]