350 0.30 over- 55235 APRROX MILES
210cc aluminum heads 2.02/1.60 valves- PRO COMP.
Roller rocker arms-3/8 1.5 RATIO
Edelbrock cam .488/510 duration is 230/240-FLAT TAPPET
Air gap intake-MATCHED PORTS
Holley 670 street avenger- STOCK
Msd ignirion
14* base timing
Hooker headers to true duals- HOOKER HEADERS 25/8 PRIMES TO 3 INCH
Stripped interior of anything usless
Procar racing seats

7.5 TEN BOLT WITH 28 SPLINE MOSER AXLES C CLIP ELIMINATORS
3.73 gears- DETROIT LOCKER
275/15 rear drag radials
Turbo 350 trans
2800 stall-
STOCK SUSPENSION WITH FRONT SWAY BAR REMOVED
UNSURE COMPRESSION MAYB 9.8-10.1ISH

 

hmm... not too sure, maybe 7.50's-8.0's in the 1/8?

 

whats the equal to in the 1/4? im trying to reach 12.90 or better. ill be happy with a 12 sec car

 

i think it should meet your goal...... but youll just have to run it and see. heads are a little on the big size for the rest of it, but should work. also, in dealing with those heads you should buy them bare and have a good engine machine shop put them together so the guides are right as well as the valve job. imo, of course.

 

Converter and gear a little low to get the car moving, but id say mid twelves shouldnt be an issue. I ran 12.10s with a similar combo but edelbrock performer rpm heads and 4.10 gear with a 600cfm carb. I think youll meet or exceed your goal.

 

I agree. I had the option to buy an assembled set of Dart heads on TGO classifieds. I bought them bare instead. Although I spent about twice as much for the valves, locks, retainers, seals, and springs, as I would have if I bought them assembled, I now know they've been done right with top of the line parts, all brand new. That's worth it to me.

 

i bought them assembled, they have stainless valves, springs for the cam, pushrod guie plates,and pushrods. i like them just hope i hit my goal

 

Will easily accomplish your goal as long as you are under 3500 lbs and density altitude you race at is under 3000 or so.

Really wants 3500-4000 stall imo with those heads and bigger cam like that. Last low comp 350 motor i tuned with a 230/236 hyd roller and afr 190 heads went 12.2's at 112 in around 1000 ft da. Had 3600 stall and 3.90's to get moving but still abit lazy, but it did have valve float issues which crippled rpm and hp. Would have been a high 11's car at 3400 lbs. you have smaller cam as far as lift goes but heads likely as good if not better than old afr 190's. His was efi but bottom end with the cam was lazier than expected

 

stripped car and 2800 stall?

car needs 4500 and 4.11 gears. will go bottom 12's if not faster with those two things. as it sits it'll go 12.8ish assuming you have the tune dialed in

 

stripped of anything usless i.e. rear seats a/c things of that nature. i still have carpet, and interior pieces, with 2 procar racing seats.

 

is the 670 street avenger sufficent enough or am i gna have to get a 750 holley model 4150?

 

ok ran the car last night and got some really **** poor results.
reaction- .4829
60 ft- 1.9999
330 ft- 6.0132
1/8 et-.93281
1/8 mph- 74.39
1000ft- 12.16
100 mph- 85.91
14.5797 1/4 et
90.65- 1/4 mph
is this the result of the stupid cam? it has no "launch power at all" but getting in the power band for the cam is really noticeable.

 

That cam makes no torque, will need a lot more converter.

Which air gap intake? There are two I believe. That cam/head combo probably wants a vic Jr intake and a 750 double pumped on it too.

Needs more converter

Needs more converter

Oh, before I forget, it needs more converter. And probably more timing. What's total timing? Initial timing means nothing under wot.

 

Yeah alooooot more converter but has it been tuned at all? Its way down on power

 

Timing was my first thought too. You could start with 36 total advance and work from there.

And you need more converter.

 

What, you mean you can't just slap the stuff on from outta the box and of works correctly?

 

Ok well...its a baseline. Im gonna go with my experience with low compression street 350s i ran before...

The heads arent good for more than probably 400-425 hp...but should be enough here.

That cam has a lazy ramp, so its not really making any cylinder pressure.....

SO...i would go to at least a 4k stall or more...change the rear gears to a 4.10, and use the 670 carb, but remove the power valves and jet it up a little richer.

Then...change the carb linkage to get all 4 barrels to open together...and lockout the timing in the distributor at like 36*.

If that doesnt make it launch like a ****...the motor or trans are broke.

Fyi...i ran 11.60s with a 9.1 compression 350 leaking 25%+ with a leakdown gauge at 3200 lbs. With a similar combo.

 

i hate that camshaft. it's shown it's ugly head in a couple combos lately...

 

I'm racist against flat tappet cams as is, but anyway, these guys have given a ton of advice, there is power to be used, your just not allowing it to be with the setup. Same with my car(kinda), converter is killing me and yours is even worse.

 

i was getting alot of oil on my plugs, so i pilled the intake and heads and noticed i have a nice size scratch/gouge in the cylinder wall on cyl 7. i have a thread under tech general under "help me pick a cam" its about 2 pages of information. feel free to read and jump in on the discussion. the more help the better

 

You can make the cam "act bigger" (increase lift & duration) on the intake side by using 1.6 rockers on the intake valves.... leave the exhaust at 1.5s

but sounds like you need to go thru that motor first and fix your oil control issue.

 

he doesn't need something that will "act bigger", he needs completely redefined valve actions.

 

ok i got a new block, going to get it bored .030 going to use the flattop pistons, crank, and connecting rods, and 210cc heads from old motor. i was thinking about getting the howards cam http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-HO...-/330885099431 and run my air gap intake and 670 street avenger carb. get a new 3200 stall convertor and run my total timing at 34* at 3000-3500 rpm. would this wake my car up or not to hit the 12?

 

you need 4500ish stall speed...quit fooling around with this street car small stuff when you got big heads and cam.

and a 750 double pumper.

 

I would have to disagree with the cam choice...

http://usaperform.com/performance-hy...55-p-1817.html

Id try something more like this.....use the cylinder heads as much as theyll give you...pick up a torquer 2 intake and portmatch it to your heads/gaskets (its easy). With a good converter...that car will rock and roll!!!


That cam is assuming the flat top pistons and a 64cc chamber head. Otherwise...erson has some slightly smaller cams.

THEN...lock the timing out and try the 670 carb first. It will work if you remove power valves and richen the jets.

 

you realize it's a vacuum secondary carb right?

 

its a street and strip car I gotta keep it kind of respectful to drive on the street

 

We put a vacuum sec. 750 on a 406 in a street car that ran low 10s...may not be ideal, but it would work.

Have a little faith matt!! LOL




Either way...i agree a double pumper would help 100%.

 

ALL that money spent on your rear end...and it's the pinon gear that will let go when you do make some torque..(about 380 fp) and a set of slicks..say bye bye! (a lot of us have done it in the past)

but whats spent... is spent.

you can run in the low 12s and hi 11s with a (3000 to 3500) convtr..
it's money getting there