Anyone ordered and installed Sphon's front end kit? it has a bunch of Moog stuff in it, like:

Moog Centerlink
Moog Idler Arm
Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
Moog Outter Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
Moog Lower Ball Joints (Qty. 2)
Spohn Extreme-Duty Tie Rod Adjusters (Qty. 2)

Is this a weekend project? Any special tools and stuff I'll need? It's going into the TTA. Ordered it ten minutes ago, hope it gets here within a few weeks.

 

You'll need a pickle fork to separate the joints, a BFH or 10-lb sledge, and a press to do the balljoints. While it's apart, good time to install new front shocks and check the shock bearing in the towers, most likely they're toast. Plan on removing the A-arms and taking them to a shop to have the balljoints installed. I've done them myself, but it was a PITA, even with air tools. Plan on a full weekend in the carport if your best buddy helps and is experienced.

 

since you'll be having the ball joints pressed on anyway, order some front A arm bushings... i prefer prothanes poly ones, but any of them, even rubber, are probly better condition then your stockers.

these will also have to be pressed in. but the arm will be off anyway.



before you take everything apart, measure from the middle of the outer tie rod end, to the middle of the inner on each side, and write down that length.

when you put the new ones together, match it to the old, but on the off chance that you moved them, you atleast have that length to check when its together.

that will have you close enough to drive to the alignmetn shop.




i suggest that while you're waiting on it to get there, find a good shop with a press (or make arrangements with a friend that has one) and make a appointment for an alignment.

 

Co-worker of mine did most of his S-10 front end himself, but he did have to take the A-arms in to have the new bushings installed. Of course, an S-10 front end is different then a third-gen... I think he went to Pacific Automotive for the bushings and they also did his alignment.

 

the lower A arms are identical.

the steering system is identical in design.

 

Cool - looks like I have a friend to help me out with, then. He's the odd-ball S-10 guy autocrossing and Superlapping his truck.

 

I kind of got shy when it was time to do the idler arm and centerlink. Seemed more complex than it needed to be, I didnt trust myself. Be sure to grease it all up before driving, you can barrow my grease gun if you want.

 

No pitman arm?

 

the pitman arm isnt a wear item.
the idler, and the rest of it have joints to wear out.

 

Got the parts in on Monday, but was too sick to care. I'm going to crack open the front Friday and see what else I need to have done. I'm going to take the A-Arms to Snyders to have the ball joints removed and installed.

 

Did it, factory stuff was a total pain to remove, but the new stuff went in quickly. Steering feels more connected now. Took us about six hours to do it, and that was with a one-hour lunch break. Alignment done, and I changed my plugs and wires, too. I was getting spark-thru onto my wiper arm motor casing, which would explain my inability to get the car to et above 3k RPM's without backfiring, under serious load. Now I can watch the boost gauge climb lots more now, and really feel the car accelerate like it was designed to.

All I need now, are some good tires..

 

The Yokohama ES 100's have been real nice since installed a few months ago on my IROC.

 

Grab some meats and make time for the track!

 

I'm probably going to flog the car once with the junk tires on it now, just to see how pathetic I am at launching a car. I'm shooting for the 25th.

Then, I'll need a BOV, intercooler shroud, knock light, scan-master, MAF pipe, RJC powerplate, AFPR, sub-frames, LCA's, torque arm, panhard rod... GOODIES!

 

Grrr... if it isnt' one thing, it's another... I'll go drag my wife's car and drive THAT down the 1/4 if I have to...

 

Hey Ian, you gotta do what ya' gotta do....

Cheap speed:
http://crazyjim.ramelot.com/14seconds.htm

 

Hey all, question on the ball joints. Why is it neccesary to press the new one is? This is not always the case with ball joints correct? Is this just a 3rd gen thing or what? I am in need of doing mine, but really wanted to be able to do it all myself. Thanks in advance.

 

Well, I suppose if you have a really big arbor press and appropriate adapters (so as not to damage the joint), you could stick them in, but I only had to pay fifty bucks for the whole deal, removal and install. I would've paid less if I had removed them myself, but I wanted to get the whole thing done in a day and didn't have access to the plethora of stuff I have at work.

Yeah, that was a funny article. Crazy. I know my wife would kill me if I tried that - plus I don't have a sawzall. I 'll plug away at the car today and see what I find out.