I need the roller door pin for a pre 88, please let me know where i can get one or if you have a good one

 

anyone?

 

I may have one if I knew exactly what you were talking about. Please explain

 

ok lower door hinge(body side) has 1 pin in it
the pin has cap that sticks up that a door rocker leans against....
sorry I cant really take a pic but heres a link of what it should look like:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Door-...spagenameZWDVW

except that the pin shown is post 1988 and is too long

 

On 3rdgen cars the lower body side of the door hinge must be replaced when the "door check" roller wears out. This part is still available from GM. When you get the new hinge (actually it is one half of the hinge) it will only have two mounting bolt holes, you must transfer the exact location of the third hole from your old hinge and then drill it to the same size. I beleive it is 8mm in diameter. This is covered in detail in the current (March) issue of Chevy High Performance Magazine beginning on page 24. I am also in the article.

 

is there no way to avoid replacing the entire hinge? i think mine is welded on and i didnt want to have to spend 70 on a new hinge...

 

Do what I did,
I went to the JY, checked all the operations of doors and found a great set from a 92 RS. I took them off plus 2 door lock actuators for $5. I went to Autozone today and bought new pins and bushings for $10.

 

Sorry, left that on the car when I junked it.......

 

The portion of the hinge with the "door chech" roller is bolted to the body, no welded. It really is a fairly easy operation.

 

thanks for the info guys

 

You are welcome, good luck on your repair and keep us informed on what you decide to do and how it turns out

 

By-the-way the hinges are all the same 82-92, there is no "pre 88".

 

i went to autozone*cougjh* crap *cough* to see if they had one, i picked up a post 88 roller door pin for gm cars.... 1.5 cm too long

 

"Although the dealer sells new detent rollers, they are a press fit. It's not practical to take them apart at home. Instead, go to a junkyard and get an inner hinge in better condition."
Here is a good article
http://highperformancepontiac.com/te...2hpp_fristaid/

 

That article has many mistakes.

 

No doubt,
I am glad you are here Andy, can you list a link on fixing my door? I replaced the lower hinges and bushings and pin today and now my door won't open without scraping all the paint off of my fender I have been searching for hours and I need to fix this, what is the easiest way?
Thanks

 

yea i have that problem too.... along with my roller pin looking like someon took a hammer to the side of it...

 

I am in a hurting situation here, I can't figure out how to align or lift my door so it will open and close without rubbing on the front fender. I already ruined my new paint so I guess I will keep searching until I find an answer. I will show a pic of the hinge I took out, it was bad.

 

As I mentioned earlier, each door hinge is attached with 3 bolts. One of the bolt holes is very small when compared to the others. This small hole is to locate the hinges, ........... and thus the door exactly on the body. The location of the small hole(s) is determined at the factory using a special fixture. Every 3rdgen car is different and the "exact" location of these holes will be different. This is the reason you cannot normally use door hinge components from a donor car and have them fit properly on your car.

To illustrate this point let me tell you a story about a local 3rdgen project. A guy who we will call Bob, was in the midst of his very detailed restoration of a 1984 Z-28. The bottoms on both of the original doors were badly rusted at the bottom. He obtained 2 doors from a 1992 Camaro. The locations of the small hole were completely different on the donor doors, and had to be enlarged to appox 1/2" to allow for some adjustment. The adjustment had to be done very carefully to get the correct fitment to the body. In the end it worked perfectly. I have a nice image to show this, but it is WAY too big for this board.

On you donor hinge you will need to do the same thing, or you can send your original lower hinge to me and I can replace the door check pin and roller. I have some special equipment that allows me to do this. I am not sure exactly what it will cost, but I can assure you it will be modest. If the exact cost is important I can get it for you.

 

Wow thanks for the info,
Now I am in a desperate situation here because this is my driver and what kind of turn around are we talking about. If I can't get the doors opened and closed with this newer hinge I suppose I will just have to re-install the old one with new pins and bushings. I would love to send them off to you but I don't even have a garage where I could store my car until I had them fixed. So Andy without fixing the donor hinges to match, there is no other way to adjust my doors? I didn't remove the upper bolts at all, I just removed the lower and re-installed the donor and newer parts. Maybe a temp solution until I can get the old onew sent to you for repair?

 

As a temp fix you could remove the recently installed door hinge and drill the small hole to 1/2" and reinstall it. Then adjust the bottom hinge as required for a proper fit.