Can too low bottle pressure cause NOS backfires ???
Can too low bottle pressure cause NOS backfires ???
I have a question. I am up in NY for vacation. I try to keep as much pressure in the bottle as I can. My heater is not working. It is much colder up here than in GA so I am having problems keeping heat in the bottle. Everytime I try to spray the car It causes a small nitrous backfire and blow off my intake elbow. I tried the juice 3 times and everytime it blows the intake boots off. the best pressure I hve been able to get with the cold weather is 750-850. I tried it once at 950 right after I heated the bottle and it did the same thing. Is the cold weather really affecting it ??? When I used it in GA and bristol TN I never once had this problem. Any help here ???
Drew
Drew
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From: orlando
Car: 98 Camaro SS
Engine: LS1
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With the pressure that low.. you're going to be running extremely rich... The fuel is most likely puddling in the intake, and then back firing.
Buy a torch and get your pressure up.. Just uhh.. be careful
Buy a torch and get your pressure up.. Just uhh.. be careful
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
get a torch? that is the most irresposible thing I have ever heard posted. that endangers him and bystanders, by annealing the aluminum even when you do it "carefully" you make weak spots that the 1000+ psi of liquid nitrous is just waiting to exploit in the shape of shrapnel.
Are you racing the car at the track or just sparying it on the street. If you are shooting it on the street you can take the bottle out of the car and take it inside your house and right before you leave run hot water over the bottle to raise the pressure.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
perfectly safe to use water, I have even seen guys dunk them in the hot tub or bath tub, and then cruise around with it under the blast of the floor heater to keep it warm until they reach "the spot". Be careful when doing this, weigh the bottle on a good scale (no bathroom scales) and make sure the guy who filled it for you didnt "help" you by squeezing an extra pound or pound and 1/2 into the bottle. a 10# nitrous bottle weighs almost exactly 25# full and 15# empty, unless you are running a dry kit or a bottle heater the last 2-3# wont make the car go faster so when its down to 17-18# time to go to the refill place.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 292
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From: BENSALEM, PA
Car: 88 FORMULA / 88 IROC
Engine: 355 / 355
Transmission: T5 / TH400
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt-3.73 / 9"-3.90
It actually might be too lean or the timing might be too far advanced even though the bottle pressure is not high 800 is still where nos calibrates their "kits" if your timing is far up it will do the same thing.
Originally posted by 12 Sec GTA
With the pressure that low.. you're going to be running extremely rich... The fuel is most likely puddling in the intake, and then back firing.
With the pressure that low.. you're going to be running extremely rich... The fuel is most likely puddling in the intake, and then back firing.
What kit is this? Wet or dry?
I am running an NX wet system. I have been running Nitrous for 5 years now and I have never had this problem. It only started when I went to NY and the temps wree about 30 degs colder than in GA where I live. I even tried hitting it a 4k while driving down the rd I then blew off my air intake and blew up my mass air meter. I do not know what else to try. It is still doing it.
I am going to try running a 2 step colder plug and see what happens.
Drew
I am going to try running a 2 step colder plug and see what happens.Drew
Too low bottle pressure will backfire @ launch
This time of the year it becomes a real problem. A few options: a warming pad attached to the side of the bottle (Moroso) will keep it up to temp. also make sure that you are launching at high rpm, if it can't, a small delay box (digiset) to stall the nitrous a half second after launch will keep it from flaming back through the intake.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 484
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From: winter springs, FL
Car: 2006 Pontiac GTO
Transmission: rowing through 6 gears
Originally posted by 12 Sec GTA
B4C.. it was a joke...
Never use a torch to heat your bottle.
B4C.. it was a joke...
Never use a torch to heat your bottle.
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 292
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From: BENSALEM, PA
Car: 88 FORMULA / 88 IROC
Engine: 355 / 355
Transmission: T5 / TH400
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt-3.73 / 9"-3.90
Best bet is to heat the bottle to 1000psi which ever way you prefer set your fuel pressure at (50)psi if tpi or 5.5-6 if you run a sepoarate fuel cell for a carb'd car and make a full pass if you can shut the car down and tow it back. Then pull the plugs and read them. If you dont know how to read them find someone that does. The plugs tell the best story.
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Damn… old thread… but from reading it, backfires through the intake are usually caused by going lean. I’d guess that the fuel pump was getting unhappy or something.
Buddy of mine, running a B16 honda, (its not an F-bod i know but its still NOS). Gets good pressure for the first second or less, then almost like very little pressure and keeps surging like that. This surging caused his engine to blow. The mechanic said that when the NOS went into the engine it added more fuel, then it lost that NOS and let off on the fuel, and the sudden surging again cause a harsh lean condition before the fuel management could compensate. AKA, BOOM!. Looked cool too tho....
It was a Honda Civi SIR with an Acura B16 motor. Pulling i'de estimate 300hp, there abouts. At the wheels I have no idea, but front engine front wheel drive is pretty efficient, maybe 10-12% loss?
It was a Honda Civi SIR with an Acura B16 motor. Pulling i'de estimate 300hp, there abouts. At the wheels I have no idea, but front engine front wheel drive is pretty efficient, maybe 10-12% loss?
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 484
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From: winter springs, FL
Car: 2006 Pontiac GTO
Transmission: rowing through 6 gears
Originally posted by Verviticas
Buddy of mine, running a B16 honda, (its not an F-bod i know but its still NOS). Gets good pressure for the first second or less, then almost like very little pressure and keeps surging like that. This surging caused his engine to blow. The mechanic said that when the NOS went into the engine it added more fuel, then it lost that NOS and let off on the fuel, and the sudden surging again cause a harsh lean condition before the fuel management could compensate. AKA, BOOM!. Looked cool too tho....
It was a Honda Civi SIR with an Acura B16 motor. Pulling i'de estimate 300hp, there abouts. At the wheels I have no idea, but front engine front wheel drive is pretty efficient, maybe 10-12% loss?
Buddy of mine, running a B16 honda, (its not an F-bod i know but its still NOS). Gets good pressure for the first second or less, then almost like very little pressure and keeps surging like that. This surging caused his engine to blow. The mechanic said that when the NOS went into the engine it added more fuel, then it lost that NOS and let off on the fuel, and the sudden surging again cause a harsh lean condition before the fuel management could compensate. AKA, BOOM!. Looked cool too tho....
It was a Honda Civi SIR with an Acura B16 motor. Pulling i'de estimate 300hp, there abouts. At the wheels I have no idea, but front engine front wheel drive is pretty efficient, maybe 10-12% loss?
dry sucks.
Originally posted by BigMike92Z
so he was running something like a ZEX kit or a dry shot that was counting on a MAF to compensate for fuel?
dry sucks.
so he was running something like a ZEX kit or a dry shot that was counting on a MAF to compensate for fuel?
dry sucks.
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