Ok i have a 2.8L swapped to 3.4L
the intake and fuel set up is that of a 2.8L
but the engine block itself is the 3.4L
you could see my sig for an idea of mods.

ok i plan a junkyard set up for my car. i actually wanna pull off a fun v6. No i do not want to go V8, yes i have something to prove where i live. Yes i plan on spending every cent that will cost me in pulling this off.

I have a Talon Dsm charger, came off of one. I'm gonna rebuild it.
i planned on getting either a DSM intercooler or a, one of those ugly thunderbird ones.



i need help in pulling this off. i need to know what kind of mods i will have to make so i can at least survive stock PSI 6-8. I really appreciate those of you who can give me knowledge.

Thanks

 

I'm not sure what help you really need. That turbo is fairly small, you could probably make similar power just by building up the 3.4. WRT turbocharging it, as long as it has a reasonable compression ratio...

What is the acutal goal?

 

another DSM turbo if you use them together (twin) will probably get it done.

 

is it easiar to twin turbo it?
i do have the v6
i know its better to twin turbo the v8
well i plan stock psi
and it is fairly small
but there isn't much parts for me to shop on when it comes to this engine
the world sucks and made no aftermarket parts for this engine
so it has a limit
i just wanted to know what i have to lower or bump up
more fuel... ok how?
less compression... ok how?
thanks for posting!

 

Although it is a small turbo the extra 2 cylinders will really help spool it(great for short street grudge matches probably wont have s.h.i.t for you up top though), and with your higher compression ratio you will make some power. As for the internals other than the cast pistons it should survive 5-6psi without grenading..

You'll need an FMU to help with power enrichment during boost. If not It will most likely shoot rods at the car you are racing.

 

OK, I've said this before, I'll say it again. Power is dependant on air flow, nothing more, nothing less. Every turbo compressor is capapble of pumping a finite ammount of air and the turbine is capable of flowing only so much also. If you want to know how much power it will make poke around the DSM boards and find out how much they max out at with that turbo and that's what you'll make, just probably at a lower rpm because you've got a larger engine.

If you tell me which turbo it is specifically I can probably look up the compressor map and tell you exactly what it will support.

 

its a T28 turbo, off a talon. the model before the fast and furious eclipse

what about fuel... do i need to balance the amouth of air thats going to be forced down my unsuspecting engines throat?

how do i get an FMU?

Thanks for you help guys i really appreciate this

 

my goal is to pull off the only 3.4L v6 turbo in miami
none the less the only thirdgen with turbo... especially and american v6
very few people do this
i know a few v6's that put in a supercharger but no turbo
plus i have a little thing that is hanging on my shoulders.

I want to build up the engine to survive at least stock boost
but i want more than stock boost if possible

13s or 14s is fine by me. I just want to prove that american v6 shouldn't be overlooked.

I plan on getting into the 15s just by building up with mods
hopefully mid 15s at least. then with the turbo jump into the 14s
eventually i wouldn't mind have a 13s v6

 

OK, I'm not a big DSM fan, so I might be wrong on this part, but the does not appear to be a turbo that they came with (they came with T25's). The T28 appears to be about the smallest upgrade for those.

Looking at the maps, it's good for roughly 310hp (the T25 about 260). Installing that turbo on there you'll basically end up with an engine that has more HP down low and falls on it's face as soon as it starts revving (I'm not even sure that you'll be able to rev much past 4000rpm, depends on the exhaust housing, which I wasn't able to find info on but since it came on a much smaller engine I'd imagine it's pretty small).

The thing is that it's probably too big to work great for twins on that engine also, and they're expensive for what they are. Even the ubiquitous T-bird T3 would be marginally better (worth a few more HP and should have a much bigger exhaust turbine so it won't restrict breathing, I would make sure that it's out of an early 5 speed), but for that 3.4 I'd be looking for something like a GN turbo, one of the smaller GN upgrade turbos, if you want to go Mitsu... a 16 or 20G, or possibly an HY or HX35 off of a Cummins powered Dodge Ram. If you want to go twins my first choice would be an IHI RHB5 off of something like a late t-bird 2.3 or a probe.

You should be able to sell the t28 for more then any of the turbos that I listed should run in similar condition besides maybe the 16 and 20G (you might be able to find one cheap, I've just never seen them).

Any of those combinations (except the early t-bird T3) would be capable of delivering enough air to put you in the roughly 400-500hp range, if you wanted, but you'd have a happy setup in the 300hp range till you feel comfortable with the tuning.

Lastly, if all you want is 15's, just get the combination that you've got right, you should have more power then most of the 305 equipped 3rd gens which can be tuned into the 15's easy.

BTW, you may want to poke around http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/Ul...i?action=intro since all the 60* v-6 swaps are fairly common with the fiero guys and I know a lot of them talk about turbocharging (at least one has a 3.4l turbo running, if I remember right he chose a rather small turbo for that one also)

 

thanx for the help

no i can't rev much past 4000
i have trouble now a days
before i could rev high
but ever since the rebuilt tranny i can't
its a miracle to get over 5000
i have to shift it myself for optimum results
so i figured a small turbo would help me a lot.

i'll try to post on other stuff too

have a good one
keoki

 

Oh and its a T25
i fumbled on the name in my head
its the one off a talon
not T28
my mistake

are the 16 or 20g
twins off a 3000gt?

 

Well, then what I said is even more so if it's a t25. You can make the HP that that turbo can feed just by modding the 3.4L

the 16g, 17g, and 20g are sort the mid to larger passenger car mitsubishi turbos which will be good for 300+hp. I'm not sure what the 16 or 20 came on stock (I doubt anything used them as twins, that would be good for 600+ hp), but the 17g is the stock turbo on the sy/ty trucks.

Your reving problems now sound like a tuning issue. To be honest, find that first, if you have problems finding that you'll never get a turbo setup tuned.

To answer your privious question, yes, you could probably get away with using an FMU and an ignition box with a boost retard, probably a better choice and would cost a little more and would be a more work is to adapt a 749ecm out of a sy/ty/sunbird.

 

unless he gets two turbos right? and whos goanna burn the chips for him when he does the ECM swap. I tried running that winbin program on my computer and it wont even work. says there is an unresolvable port error on my new computer. promburning is not the solution for everything. otherwise it would net more power or drivability on a car.

 

I really need to find out who will do the burning for me. ....sigh...
well i'll prolly sell my t25 and hope to get enough money through that and save up for either a bigger turbo, or twins...
which is easier. Twin or one large turbo?
i heard its easier to do a twin set up.
ugh... things just get harder and harder.

 

I don't get it, why 'unless he gets two turbos?'

Sounds like you've got a problem with your setup... what port is it looking for and are you running an NT based OS?

No, it's not the solution for everything, but it will solve a lot of things within limits. Programming is the solution for more power and drivability as long as you are within those limits. If you do other things (mess with fuel pressure like with an FMU, mess with timing...) you're basically stuck getting it exactly right at one point and wrong everyplace else. For example, I found that my ET on my somewhat stock L98 increases as I increase my base fuel pressure up to 54psi. Unfortunately, at 54 psi it runs rich everywhere else, I get roughly 13mpg highway and the back of the car gets covered with soot... If I had the equipment to burn a chip with pretty close to the stock timing, and with more fuel up top, ran the stock fuel pressure and tweaked a few other things I could get good gas mileage and around town drivability back and still run the same times at the track.

The reason that programming is better until you reach the limits of the factory ECM that you're using is that GM spent millions developing a system that has superior stall management, compensations for all sorts of conditions (low bat, temperatures, coolant and air, engine wear…), drivability and emissions that you cannot get all of in the aftermarket systems.

Keoki single vs. twin is largely up to you. I believe that single is harder to find room for and to connect to the engine but much easier to connect to the exhaust and to run the intake ducting. Twins should be slightly more responsive, but this really shouldn't be an issue if the turbo(s) are sized appropriately to start with.

 

A single T25 will thoroughly supply a 3.4?


It's XP home edition


Most people get way over their head when building a turbo system anyways. I recommend an FMU for the same resons the supercharger/Turbo kit manufacturers do. the only time a FMU is not offered and a "chip" is, is when there is no return line. An FMU is a cheap way to get any project going. I highly recommend to anyone that exceeds the capabilities of an FMU, should as an eventuality come up with some kind of custom ECM, but until that day the FMU gets her done.

 

Oh, I found that confusing because I already answered that. They're problably too big to use well as twins on the 3.4. They might work OK (at least the compressor side looks like it would be), but I suspect that they would spool slowely.


NT, 2000, and XP are all NT kernal based OS's. The NT kernal constantly checks for software trying to directly address the hardware and stops it or if it can't it will close the software. You might want to try right clicking on the executable, going to properties and choosing compatablility mode (this is one of the things that it was made for, but I haven't tried it myslef yet to see if it will work). If it's a newer machine, especially a laptop you may never get it to play well with the hardware.

Definitly agree there, and I belive that that was the I mentioned something along those lines. An FMU will most likely get it running, it may not get it tuned wel enough to really run hard (but it might be fine). For someone not familiar with burning proms they're easily better off at least getting the bugs out of the hardware while running with an FMU before they try messing with ecm's...

 

I am partially jaded against burned chips because I we have a dyno with a W/B O2, I have tuned cars "perfect" with base FP and an FMU with ratio changes using an inline air bleed or orafice restriction. Without it I would NEVER have been able to do this, let alone learn how to do this. When guys have showed up to burn chips on the dyno I have seen nothing that impressed me 1 or 2 hp for the whole shenanegans of the whole mess compared to my FMU tune. There are many cases when chip burning becomes neccessary like when injector flow is exceeded and humongous injectors of an FMU "untunable" size are needed, or when a radical cam is used on an SD car. I actually see a day when I might need a chip for my car.