alright so i got this B&M blower that hasnt been made for years (weiand bought them out 5 years back) i notice some holes are pluged up with alen head nuts. are these vacuume outs? one is right below where the car bolts and the other is on the manifold over one of the ports for the head. there is 2 larger holes in the front of the manifold im guessing for water temp and no idea what the other is. can you run a boost guage out of one of these holes? i know nothing about blowers or chargers really. i believe its a 144 blower. but on the bright side, i found where to fill and drain the oil which leads me to another question, since i have no idea when the oil was changed last i want to change it out. what kinda of oil goes in there? i know its not motor oil or nothing like that. kinda smells like diff fluid. help me out here guys!

 

Got some pics it been awhile
the oil is 80w90

 

so its diff fluid? i just bought some 80w90 royal purple synthetic for the 9bolt. guy at the speed shop recommended it. can i use that in there? or will syntec kill it?

yeah i can post up pictures later today of the blocked holes

 

I never ran synthetic in mine but I dont know that it would hurt anything. As far as pics I think I have more but I can't find them. If you show me what your asking about I am sure it will come back to me (its been a while) this is the best pic I could find, its from october of 86

 

picture #1 i know one of these is for water temp i think. is the other hole just an option to run the temp guage at or can you run something else?

 

heres 2nd im thinkin thats to run a vacuum line?

 

#3 im thinkin another spot to run a vacuum line

 

last picture.....this has got to be a vacuum line

 

Picture #1 and #2 are both coolant passages I had all of them plugged. I kept the temp sensor in the head

Picture #3 is a little hard to tell exactly where that is on the manifold but it looks like a intake runner, just remember below the blower you will have vacuum with the throttle plates closed but boost with them open ie; vac/boost gauge outlet

The last pic is a vacuum port I was running two carbs so I took my brake booster and pvc off of the carbs and didn’t use that one either

Hope you have luck finding a pulley I had two (7lb and 15lb) but I sold them both with the blower back in 1990 if you got any more questions let me know

 

yeah i called weiand and they gave me the part numbers to get the pullies from summit. so pic 3 is where i can run a boost guage? i know i cant really adjust boost, i kinda just want the guage on the inside for looks

 

If you give me a more full view of that area in pic #3 I can tell you for sure that that is an intake runner and that’s where you put the boost/vac gauge fitting.

As far as adjusting boost just buy diff pulleys they only take a few min to put on and whamo more boost.

I have seen on here that people say that it is hp limited to 500hp my opinion is that it goes higher but has a serious drop in the curve.

By the way did they tell you for sure that the Wieand pulleys fit the B&M? Don't know that they wont just thought it was strange competing mgf's have the same pulley!

 

yeah i called holly's tech line and they directed me to weiand. weiand bought out B&M and their pullies on their roots blowers are the same. they said it would fit no prob. that #3 pic is on a runner in the back of the manifold.

hey another question. i have late style heads and the blowers are made for early style. no i have heard the you can elongate the 4 center bolt holes to fit. is this true? i dont trust myself and im looking for someone who has done it to do it for me

 

Can't help ya with that one sorry, all my stuff is old ummmm....ya my car stuff too..... lol

 

was yours a street car? and what kind of fans did you use a puller or pusher? i have to buy a fan and have no idea what to get. my car is going to be driven on the street a lot. i was looking at the black magic fan but it says for engines up to 260 hp in the summit catolog. i found a dual fan setup from derale that flows 4000 cfm which is 2x the cfm from the black magic fan. they are both puller style fans. i dont even know if the stock was a puller or pusher... what am i better off with

 

lol Its not quite past tense yet, still is street (going to do the last half of the power tour in june)

as far as my fan it is the 2000 cfm s-blade summit fan SUM-G4904 as a pusher on the griffin rad. We have gone to the woodward dream cruise the past 4 years and have spent 4+ hours each year sitting in the cruise 90 to 95 degree weather and my temp never got over 190

with the blower and low compression this is one of the benifits, at idle or low speed you are not creating the heat like high compression motors and anything over 30 mph the natural air flow is more cfm than the fan is anyways

 

alright then ill just get the black magic fan then. its got 2,800 cfm puller style. im sure it will do the trick. ill get some pics of the #3 hole for you tomorrow so you can varify the spot for the boost guage

i just noticed you have a pusher not a puller. i think ill go with a pusher style as well then... what diameter is it? im thinkin something like a 14 inch will do. suggestions?

 

I assume you will be running a carb; if you plan on using power valves (i would to save fuel...) either use a blower carb with manifold referenced power valve and tap it to one of the ports in the manifold (below blower) or use a really small number power valve (like 2-3" HG) and it should open during boost (unless the blowers sitting on a really big motor) but not during normal non-boost part-throttle acceleration (like it normally would) because the blower tricks the carb into "seeing" more vacuum than a N/A would under the same situations...

BTW that looks like my old blower. where did you get that thing from? heh. Didnt buy it off Ebay did ya? I sold mine on there.

 

I would just check with B&M

 

heres a full size picture of picture #3. i think this is where i run the boost guage?

for a carb ill be sticking with my double pumper. i have this car built to the T and havent even driven it yet so i dont want to go changinf a lot of stuff... would be a waste of money. since all of the parts in it have 0 miles. i want to see how it runs with what i have before i start changing. from what i understand, the blower was made as a bolt on for stock engines so im guessing i wouldnt have to change anything anyhow. all the holes came plugged except for the temp guage. thats why im asking what they do

 

A bolt on for stock engines... is yours stock by any chance?
The reason I suggest you modify the power valve is simple;
Without this modification, you run the risk of running lean during boost. do that but for a moment and you risk ruining the entire motor. just ask me how i know

I ran the exact blower for about 1 month without a "blower carb" mod; manifold reference power valve. because of the size of the camshaft, the vacuum at idle was already low, but during boost it would show up HIGHER under the carb than at idle, and the power valve would remain closed... When i started to find chunks of my pistons in various places about the motor I realized something was wrong. pay me now or pay me later.

 

well how do i run a power valve? i dont have a big cam at all really, im still kicking myself for not going bigger. also, i have a vacuum advance distributer. like i said, im new at this blower stuff. did you run this blower on a 305 or 350? i have a 350 bore .060 with tons of goodies inside including speed pro pistons and sealed power rings, GM forged crank and rods, all crane plasmaoly rods and springs and rollers on a 3x cut head with shave work and a few other things. i have the LATE style heads and need to elongate the 4 centerbolt holes but am unsure how to do it and dont want to mess it up since it was fairly expensive... recommendations?

also, is that the spot i want to run a boost guage? lol i really just want it for looks the car is coming out of the gurage in a few weeks (when the hawk is finished) so i can rewire all my acc. to the moroso switch panel i go 2 days ago...and the fan i got too i put WAY too much money into this car to mess it up now so any help would be great

 

Heres the deal with the blower you own; it doesnt want a big cam. In fact my current 383 has the exact blower, and im running an XE262 in it, 218* @ 050 duration... in a 360 or smaller than cam is STILL a bit large for the blower, although acceptable in my opinion. that was one of my first mistakes as a blower-owner, too big of a cam. How big is the cam in your motor now as it sits?

As for whats INSIDE the motor, I dont care if your pistons are made of adamentine or mallory metal, detonation WILL eat them alive, it just so happens that forged pistons are more resistant to it, but having forged pistons doesnt make it OK to detonate. Im sure you know this, but the way you worded it sounds like you dont think the motor will blow no matter what you do with it. it WILL melt/reshape a piston if you detonate under boost, its just a matter of time, and usually not that much time.

As for the late model heads, thats going to be tricky. I have done the bolt hole modification 2 times, and each time I wound up with oil leak problems. Maybe there is another member with experience on how to avoid that little incident...

Whats your compression ratio, whats your Cam's duration, are your heads aluminum, do you have some method of timing retard for boost, and what size pulley (diameter or estimated boost level) is on the blower, that should get us started on what you need to do.

 

im pretty sure the cam is a 272 duration 454 gross lift. the heads were stockers (iron) shaved and 3x cut with all new internals. the motor is about a 10:4:1 compression

i have the manifold cutting solved. i have no idea why you were getting leaks. you must have done something wrong. widing the holes doesnt cause leaks, unless you went too big. i have a guy that races with some co-workers of mine, doing the job for me. has the baddest 55 chevy i have ever seen

as for the pullies, im getting replacement pullies from summit (stock size) since UPS crushed mine in shipping... the one on the blower is 3 inch and the crank is about 6 inch. across not from center to side

 

<b>the motor is about a 10:4:1 compression </b>


OK, Back up a step. 10.4:1 compression is enough to blow that thing sky high under boost, and you have iron heads...

IMO your not safe with anything over 9.5:1 compression with that blower, and thats with aluminum heads. I would rethink your plan of action. high compression + blower = KABOOOOOM!

 

man i just got the damn thing too lol. was looking forward to strapping it on next month. now i gotta go to Ebay or something. ive put too much time and money into the car to blow the motor. like i said, i know nothing about blowers/chargers

 

alright, im having a very good friend of mine asking all over the ford boards (i know, i know, but those guys are insanely smart) about the blower with my compression. he thinks your wrong about the whole kaboom theory... i know the alloy heads are better for boost but you can still run on the steel heads. this blower was designed as a bolt on for nearly stock engines from what i have read. if you read the tech articles, they used a 144 roots blower on a stock 350. thats all this blower is. the specs givin on the HP increase were from a stock 350. im unsure of the stock compression, but the heads were steel i know that much. im going too look around myself, hopefully i didnt waste this much money for nothing

 

FIrst off the heads are not steel, they are IRON.
Second off, a Stock 350 does NOT have anywhere NEAR 10.4:1 compression, most are 9:1 or lower. Think about it. 10.4:1 will not be 87 octane pump gas friendly, even less so in a high VE tuned port motor (such as a stock L98).

Ask anyone on this board, Im not going to say it again... KABOOM. final warning.

 

Ford guys are saying it's OK? Do they know it's an SBC? Do you get the feeling that they just want you to blow the thing up?

If not, that's a really surprising response since the SBF head design does not allow as good a quench and swirl so they are actually more prone to detonation.

It could be made to work with a HEAVILY modified engine, but I doubt that you're building anything near that (I'm not going to take the time to read back to the beginning of this thread). FWIW, a STOCK L98 is right at the ragged edge of detonation on a hot day. I know that mine with stock initial or even slightly retarded initial timing will ping on a warm day with anything less then 92 octane.

 

little harsh there king... final warning ae? heh ok there buddy

and i never said ford guys are saying anything. if you can read correctly, i said im having my FORD buddy ask around on his boards about the compression and blower. has nothing to do with what kind of engine BTW... those ford guys are a hell of a lot smarter then most people on this board. ive seen them use their alternators as welders and all sorts of crazy things like that.

oh and BTW, i know the heads are iron. i only said it in a post. read above... if your going to post sarcastic remakes, dont bother posting. alright?

 

company doesnt recommend using the blower on a compression over 9:51 you were right. still no need to get nasty...

wonderful now i need to sell this thing. need a tranny anyways

 

Sorry if i sounded nasty but i just *hate* repeating myself. I know of what you speak, I tried using my alternator for a TIG myself, its not rocket science but its pretty interesting if you can get it to work.


You remarked <b>the heads were stockers (iron) shaved and 3x cut with all new internals. the motor is about a 10:4:1 compression
</b>

So you started with stock IRON heads and had the valves 3 angled and I assume when you say "internals" you mean valve springs/locks/retainers. When you say "shaved" I assume you mean thats how you obtained the 10.4:1 compression ratio, assuming you have flat-top or nearly flat-top pistons.

Were the heads ported? Stock heads with a valve job arnt exactly "performance" heads. Even with a blower you would be looking at under 400 RWhorsepower on a "stock" iron head with a 3 angle valve job... and with that Mid-sized cam without a blower you are most def. looking at less than 400 N/A horsepower.

Why dont you get some better heads to drop the CR down low enough to use the blower? that way they flow more like a real head should, and they would allow the use of your small roots blower, enough to add 70-90 horsepower on moderate amount of boost (4-6PSI). Thats what I would do in your situation...

What sort of pistons? what size Dish if any? I assume you have valve releif; how many CC are they? what CC is the head before and after shaving? how far was it shaved? where are you getting 10.4:1 compression ratio from? did you CC the whole thing with playdoh to be sure?

 

i didnt build the motor myself, i had the machine shop build the long block. i used forged speed pro flat top pistons. i had no idea what compression it was so i gave him a call and he said about a 10:4:1. he built it so im going with his word. he also said the engine is pumping out well over 300 in the crank no prob. unlike many people on this board, i dont have the money to get new heads... theres a reason why i had those built. its hard building a car and taking care of a 2 year old. i wish i could spend endless amounts of money on the car like i used too. im against buying used heads also because i have no idea where they have been. plus i spend all the money on these with the rollers, springs ETC... i dont know squat about compression rates either so i would have no idea what heads to get to drop the compression, if i had the money to do so. as for the cc's and such im unsure what cc the pistons are.

i have posted the blower up in the classifieds for a thousand bucks, i think its a good price. im losing on the deal, but i need the money for a TQ arm and misc. items needed to get the car street worthy. kinda a loss buying the damn thing, wish i could use it but i need other things for the car over heads and the blower...

 

Yeah you'll get $1k for it for sure, in fact If you want more $ i would go to Ebay... I finnaly sold mine on there for $1300~ If i remember correctly, You have the polished version, and if the rotors are in excellent condition you can get that at least for it.

You will surelly make 300-330 crank HP with that cam if those heads flow around 180-190CFM at least, which shouldnt be too hard to muster. If I remember correctly it takes 198CFM to make about 400 Crank HP, and most factory heads flow at least 180CFM or more...

It would be nice to have a blower on for the extra power, but I suppose its too late now then... What will you do for an intake then? If you could I would look into a TPI setup... they are relativelly cheap, and flow enough to support your heads and even with stock runners you could lay down 310-320 Crank horsepower with whats in your motor already, and have plenty of torque to boot, of course. You'll be running premium for sure though..

If no TPI setup then I suppose you will go carb/intake, in which case a 650VS like the Holley "avenger" would be nice, as opposed to a Double pumper which will just chew away a little more of your fuel economy, and the Performer RPM intake would be a fine match for your powerband, I would think.

 

well the motor is already built and running... i do have a street avenger intake on there BTW. the motor has been togeather for a long while now, just wanted to get the extra power from a blower. im waiting for the UPS check to come and i will buy 2 brand new pullies for the blower then prob put it on ebay because i havent had any mails for the last 2 days on TGO classifieds. all the mails i get are hopefuls, they hear 1k and it needs a 147 dollar pully from summit and they never return my replies. i think its a great deal personaly