where can I get a cog belt for vortech?
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4 in both
where can I get a cog belt for vortech?
Looking to get a cog belt for my Vortech charger, the serp set-up has to be very tight to not slip. Just don't like it. Does any one know where to get pulleys & belts?
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
http://www.aspracing.com/
They sell pullies for 4th gens and mustangs. I've heard of some people converting over pullies. Might be a place to start the research.
They sell pullies for 4th gens and mustangs. I've heard of some people converting over pullies. Might be a place to start the research.
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4 in both
I finally stopped messing around with serpentine stuff, idler pulleys, automatic tensioner ideas that didn't work out, broken harmonic balancers so I ordered a cog set up today from ASP. I can't wait to get them, the UPS guy may want to wear a helmet when he shows up, I may just tackle him out of sheer excitement. I have been fighting belt slip all year, it got embarrasing, I built a new motor and every time I would take someone for a hell ride the damn belt would slip, they would look at me like "is that it?" & I would say "the belt is slipping". It kinda got old. But now its time to go 1320 in the spring. I'm setting up for 10psi to start. YAHOO!!!!
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Can you post pictures and specs when you get your new cogs? I've always wanted to do this mod too, but not high on my list right now because I'm running low boost. I'm kind of worried about clearance issues with the radiator fans.
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I built a new motor...
I would say "the belt is slipping".
I would say "the belt is slipping".
I prefer " the tires are spinning cause I have less than half a tank"
A lot of serp setups I look at always appear to not have enough contact area. The smaller blower pulley method may not be the best route to more boost even though it's cheaper. The bigger blower is a better investment....
There are dia vs rpm and load specs for belts and pulleys.
I'd bet people end up well beyond the belt manufacturers specs. An extra idler to increase the amount of pulley wrap will help. But you still need x amount of pulley surface to support the load.
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
How much did the cog setup cost now? It use to be around $650 awhile back. What teeth pullies did you get?
Also been reading over at superchargerhelp.com, lots of mustang guys have had problems with serpentine setups. Some over there preach about having pullies beadblasted and using at least a 8" crank for more wrap down low, which should let you use a larger one up top.
Probably already know, but make sure you have alignment perfect with the cog setup. Also read posts about guys over there snapping belts (~$70 each) and even ripping teeth off, due to alignment issues.
Also been reading over at superchargerhelp.com, lots of mustang guys have had problems with serpentine setups. Some over there preach about having pullies beadblasted and using at least a 8" crank for more wrap down low, which should let you use a larger one up top.
Probably already know, but make sure you have alignment perfect with the cog setup. Also read posts about guys over there snapping belts (~$70 each) and even ripping teeth off, due to alignment issues.
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Originally posted by Z69
I prefer " the tires are spinning cause I have less than half a tank"
I prefer " the tires are spinning cause I have less than half a tank"
Z69, You made me laugh! Thanks!
I do absolutely agree with you about contact area and belt wrap. Unfortunately these days a supercharger set up for $3400 providing 6psi still sucks! My belt has been an issue since day one. You would think vortech would include a non slip solution(cog) but it seems they spend more time on r&d for new apps instead of working out the bugs of the old set-ups.
I thought about a bigger lower pulley as an option, then when I saw another member with an x-trim @ 23lbs, I had my answer. Big boost=cog, so x-trim is in my near future.
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Originally posted by fireturd350
How much did the cog setup cost now? It use to be around $650 awhile back. What teeth pullies did you get?
Also been reading over at superchargerhelp.com, lots of mustang guys have had problems with serpentine setups. Some over there preach about having pullies beadblasted and using at least a 8" crank for more wrap down low, which should let you use a larger one up top.
Probably already know, but make sure you have alignment perfect with the cog setup. Also read posts about guys over there snapping belts (~$70 each) and even ripping teeth off, due to alignment issues.
How much did the cog setup cost now? It use to be around $650 awhile back. What teeth pullies did you get?
Also been reading over at superchargerhelp.com, lots of mustang guys have had problems with serpentine setups. Some over there preach about having pullies beadblasted and using at least a 8" crank for more wrap down low, which should let you use a larger one up top.
Probably already know, but make sure you have alignment perfect with the cog setup. Also read posts about guys over there snapping belts (~$70 each) and even ripping teeth off, due to alignment issues.
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
They were beadblasting serp setups. I've read conflicting information on it though. It was believed that 'Vortech's Renegade Pullies' were beadblasted before they shipped. Some other members there said they were told they had a textured coating applied to the surface. Either way both seemed to agree that renegade pullies and standard pullies that were beadblasted did generate dust and belts still wore out fast.
I believe the ford cog setups are highly different. From the various posts I read those guys had problems with belt slap like crazy, when letting off the throttle. Most were already using the mondo BOV setups. Some users even went as far as adding an additional tension setup, which supposely stopped the slap.
I'd definitely think about adding a BOV or surge valve too. With the old serp setup the belt slip probably eliminated most of the need for it, but the new setup isn't going to be as friendly to the belt, pullies, or bearings if it tries to kick.
Definitely get us some pics and let us know how it works out for you.
I believe the ford cog setups are highly different. From the various posts I read those guys had problems with belt slap like crazy, when letting off the throttle. Most were already using the mondo BOV setups. Some users even went as far as adding an additional tension setup, which supposely stopped the slap.
I'd definitely think about adding a BOV or surge valve too. With the old serp setup the belt slip probably eliminated most of the need for it, but the new setup isn't going to be as friendly to the belt, pullies, or bearings if it tries to kick.
Definitely get us some pics and let us know how it works out for you.
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
i HOPE you have the HD s-trim.. If not good luck.. If you have the regular s-trim that comes with the f-body kit then ENJOY sending it back for an expensive rebuild..
The BASE s-trim is NOT designed to be used with cog pullies... ONLY the blowers in HD trim are... so unless you have an HD s-trim compressor Id think twice about cogs..
T- YS- X-XX -Z trim all are HD from the factory.. s-trim is NOT..
The BASE s-trim is NOT designed to be used with cog pullies... ONLY the blowers in HD trim are... so unless you have an HD s-trim compressor Id think twice about cogs..
T- YS- X-XX -Z trim all are HD from the factory.. s-trim is NOT..
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Got my cogs
Well eight weeks later, and I finally got them. Nice quality from ASP RACING. Now I need a BOV. Any good ones out there? Adjustable? Next three pics are of my cogs. 75 tooth drive, 31 tooth driven.
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
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2nd pic
Oh yea, they did an underdrive serp pulley also. The drive pulley is one piece.
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
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Transmission: 700R4 in both
Last one. As soon as it warms up outside, I'll be deglazing the rear tires.
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
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No, and believe me I can't wait. Roads are horrible right now. I'm gonna run it sometime this weekend. Should be 10-11psi. Thats what I asked for.
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Car: 84z28
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Car: 1987 Iroc, 1987 MCSS TPI
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Well I ran it this weekend. What a major difference. Its like when I first bolted the SC on and went for a hell ride. I was traveling in 3rd gear (700R4) 45 mph, I mashed the gas and lit the rear tires car broke loose and I instantly lifted off the gas!! Unbelievable difference. Boost gauge flashed up to 15psi at 6000, not without detonation. So sad to say I just shelled out another $700.00 for an intercooler, which will be in addition to my $750.00 water injection system. I also dropped $200.00 on a Crane Hi-6 ignition box just to be sure I had enough juice. Hope to drive it again within two weeks. Intercooler install is going to take some time.
There is no kit, these are custom made. I got mine from ASP racing.
Originally posted by DARCOM
thats just what i need. do you have any part numbers so i can order one.thanks
http://darcom.org
thats just what i need. do you have any part numbers so i can order one.thanks
http://darcom.org
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