4 bolt roller block i already have
alignbore and hone with torque plate .030 over
new freeze plugs and cam bearings
chase and clean threads

rotating assembly is Eagle 355 Competition rotating assembly with -24cc Inverted Dome Pistons....4340 crank and rods

AFR 195 68cc combustion chamber heads with steel ringed head gaskets CR would be 8.2:1
ARP Studs wherever possible.....windage tray being used

Cam is CCA-12-415-8
rpm range 2000-6000
duration at .050 224/236
advertised duartion 276/288
lift .502/.520
113 LSA

lifters are CRN-10535-16
chain is CRN-10993-1

LT1 intake with aeromotive AFPR

other bolt ones being pro magnum 1.5 rockers, SLP 1 3/4
headers, 3"catback, BBk 58mm TB, 6al, blaster 2, 8.5 wires, pro billet dist., bulletproof 700R4 with 9.5" lockup converter...and all the neccesary suspension mods



Question is that i want to go with the Procharger F1...what boost level am i going to want, what injectors....and do you have any suggestions as to improvements of the long block...i would go with AFR 210cc heads but the 76cc combustion chamber would yield a 7.6:1 CR ratio which is too low for what i want to do...and could shave the heads....but wouldn't want to have to alter the intake manifold for the shaved heads...what does everyone think?

 

Sounds like the setup I have been planning in my head for the last month. If you would, keep me updated on how everything works out. I am very interested in what hp/tq it results. When its all said and done. I hope with 15lbs and a decent bottom end to be deep into the 10's with the setup and the way I have been crunching the numbers it doesn't look like it will be a problem.

I was thinking on running ...
AFR 195's studded and ringed.
NX276HR comp cam with 1.5's
TPIS mini ram
D1-SC procharger, debating the twin 3 core.
58mm TB

 

any idea on how much more boost could be safely run by o-ringing the block? i want the car to be streetable yet quicker then my last car and...quicker then my bike...be able to take it out to the track and on nice days...also still have a/c...

 

I would ring it at about 12-13lb's. BTW have you seen the Jan '05 issue of CHP's 765 hp 355 with a D1? Very interesting. They are talking about a fel-pro cometic head gasket that eliminates the need to machine a receiver groove. part #1003 is what they had listed for their build.

 

well that f1 will be an intresting deal... on a friend of mines car, he had to pulley it down out of the box for 11lbs... it was pushing about 15-16 out of the box on a 350...

 

Sounds like a nice setup.

id look into these headgaskets also...

http://www.cometic.com/

 

Everything i've read, and everyone i've talked to says run around 9:1 with a centrifigul blower.. Low 8's are roots territory.

You'd have to mill those heads down to 57cc to do that, though if you angle milled it, you'd also end up rolling the valve angle to around 18* which would give you a little more power.

Your running a .040" gasket, and setting the pistons .005" down in the hole, right? The inverted dome is a great quench piston. Glad you went with that rather than a dish.

-- Joe

 

better put 1.6 rockers on that cam. what computer are you going to run that with? you are going to need at least 55lb injectors and a BIG fuel pump.
Do what Joe said .005 in the hole and get .040 cometic head gaskets
And one question, where did you buy a bullet proof 700?

 

i was sitting and thinking about it and the amount of power i would probably hit would be too much for my 91 GTA...being as it is such an original car and the mileage is so low...i would end up buying another 91-92 firebird....whether is was base model, formula, trans am or gta...i really wouldn't care...as long as it was a hard top and i wouldn't feel bad doing the neccesary modifications for that kind of power...i would like to do a pro touring style but wonder what the quarter mile times would look like...would probably see major traction problems...would be alot more fun with a T56 and a mini tub to fit something along the lines of an 18x10 wheel in the back

only internal differences would be
AFR 210cc heads milled down
Comp NX288HR
adv. 288/315 2400-6500rpm
@.050 236/248
lift .520/.540
113lsa

also did want to run the cometic gaskets...just had read up on them yesterday in the new CHP

as far as ecu i would imagine i am beyond the 749 ecm....which i would then opt for fuel air spark's sequential kit with the wide band 02 option...i see no need for individual cylinder...would be nice to have as it would make it easier to troubleshoot or diagnose...but this is going to be my first time with stand alone so im going to try to keep it as simple as possible...

 

was going to have one built by one od the local race tranny guru's well known around englishtown...but might have had to go with a 4L80e...the 91 i might just do a simple zz-383 swap to keep it as a practical daily driver and purchase another 91-92 or even an 86-92 FC3S RX-7...the Turbo 2 89-91 models came with a vicious type limited slip, and 4.10 stock rear end gears...87-88 Turbo 2 is the same with a clutch style differential...2600Ibs...nice looking...would make for a pretty cool ride...could also purchase a front mount intercooler kit and slightly alter it for the procharger...would make the air charge very efficient...

 

If this guy really believes that he’s capable of building something that will live under those conditions I’d love to hear more details (about what he’s doing, or about how to get in touch with him or anything…).

 

After destroying many pro built 700's with all killer parts (5 pinion sun gears, beast sun shells, extra clutches, new pumps......)
I believe the "bullet proof 700" is a urban myth!

 

Cake… eat it… some such crap…

I keep hoping that I can find a solution that will not cost me more then the rest of the car that will be bullet proof and let me keep OD for street ability.

After 7 sets of gears, 4 posis 2 axles and assorted other stuff (including trying a 9 bolt which was supposed to be “stronger then a dana 44”) I’ve pretty much admitted that I’ll have to go aftermarket with the rear.

I realize that I can go low buck with a th400, but loosing the OD would really kill a lot of the fun of the car, and the cost of a 4L80, GV or a G-Force manual seems way out of line.

I keep wondering if I can go somewhere with a combination of some of the “bullet proof” 700 parts out there and some of the 4L65 parts that came out recently…

 

How fast are you running?! I've got about 100 timeslips from this season alone and my 10bolt is still ok. So is the T5. RAM ceramic clutch ate through the flywheel and pressure plate though..

-- Joe

 

Not that fast, I'm just good at breaking these things...

 

What is involved in setting the pistons .005 down in the hole? Does it have to do with where the pin hole in the piston is?

Second, which is considered "better" for a forced induction motor pressed pins or floating pins?

Thanks
Tom

 

Floating pistons used a bushed rod, which has priority oiling. For a "blower" you'll want whats called a reverse dome piston. Stay away from actual dish pistons as they have no real quench area.

Once you purchase the piston/rods/crank and bearings (clevite or federal "H" bearings) you set it up and measure the distance from the flat top of the piston to the deck. You then have the machine shop deck the block down so the piston is .005" from the deck. (at TDC of course).

If you can get a reverse dome piston that uses a 6" rod, you'll be better than a 5.7..

Also, get H beam rods with .940 journal widths, and run everything with kinda loose clearances. Then compliment that with a high volume mellings pump.



-- Joe

 

Thanks Joe,

What is the advantage of a 6" rod over a 5.7 rod?

--- Tom

 

Instead of the piston trying to push against the cyl wall, it changes the angle so it pushes more on the CRANK.

Also, there are some theories about dwell time in that a longer rod can actually help cobustion efficiency.

I couldn't run a 6" rod in my setup (because I could not find a reverse dome piston in 4.040" bore) so I ran a 383 piston with a 5.850" rod, which is still better than a 5.700" rod.

-- Joe