Wastegate installation instructions
Wastegate installation instructions
Anyone using a HKS GT wastegate? I just bought one and the instructions are in Japanese. I was wanting to know the correct way to hook this up plus I need to change out the spring because the current spring is for too much boost.
There are (2) 1/8" ports that I don't know what goes to them. I know how it gets connected to the header. My main concern is taking it apart to change the spring though.
The bottom port goes to a intake somewhere I hooked mine up to the compresor on the turbo and then run the hose to your boost controller. Then hook the top port to the other side of your boost controller. If you don't have a boost controler get one mine was $45 from turbonectics. And of course if your running twins like me just y-them together.
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From: SE PA, USA
Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
The idea behind the two sense ports on the WG is so you can control the pressure ratio accross the turbo compressor. For instance, if the WG only controls boost at the compressor outlet, a restricted compressor intake (clogged filter/collapsed hose) will cause the turbo to overspeed to reach the desired boost setting
On this wastegate, connect the upper port to the compressor inlet and the lower port to the compressor outlet. This way, the wastegate controlls the pressure ratio across the compressor, not just the 'manifold pressure'. If you are running a boost controller, connect it in the line leading to the lower port.
On this wastegate, connect the upper port to the compressor inlet and the lower port to the compressor outlet. This way, the wastegate controlls the pressure ratio across the compressor, not just the 'manifold pressure'. If you are running a boost controller, connect it in the line leading to the lower port.
Do you connect the lower port to the outlet tubing going to the intercooler or can you connect it to the 90* elbow after the throttle body? I really don't have to worry about the inlet side as this is for a race car therefore no intake filter. Thanks
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: SE PA, USA
Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Originally posted by bjm323
Do you connect the lower port to the outlet tubing going to the intercooler or can you connect it to the 90* elbow after the throttle body? I really don't have to worry about the inlet side as this is for a race car therefore no intake filter. Thanks
Do you connect the lower port to the outlet tubing going to the intercooler or can you connect it to the 90* elbow after the throttle body? I really don't have to worry about the inlet side as this is for a race car therefore no intake filter. Thanks
I played with connecting the WG to both these locations on my TT IROC. I see 6psi when the WG are connected directly to the compressor outlet. When the sense line was connected to the plenum, I seen the boost spike to 10psi, but steady out at 8psi. Connecting to the plenum also seemed to improve turbo response (something you will probably have to expierement with on a race car).
Last edited by 89JYturbo; Nov 16, 2004 at 12:04 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
A guy who works for Precision Turbo sent this to me when I was hooking mine up.
Crude but effective.
EDIT: Be careful, those ports are not NPT either. They are BSPT. aka British Standard. I had to buy some adapters to get mine hooked up.
Crude but effective.
EDIT: Be careful, those ports are not NPT either. They are BSPT. aka British Standard. I had to buy some adapters to get mine hooked up.
Last edited by Guido; Nov 16, 2004 at 01:41 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: SE PA, USA
Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Guido
Was the info I gave above incorrect then? I haven't ever hooked a wastegate up like you pictured above, but then again I have never used this particular WG. I know turbonetics WGs work like I stated above.
Was the info I gave above incorrect then? I haven't ever hooked a wastegate up like you pictured above, but then again I have never used this particular WG. I know turbonetics WGs work like I stated above.
If you don't have a boost controler get one
I'm gettin' psyched and it hasn't even happened yet!
Excuse my ignorance but, Is that a boost controller on that drawing? Now the way 89JYturbo tells me to hook it up and the way Guido's drawing shows are complete opposite. Now Brady runs the same wastegate and he told me that the bottom ports are for boost reference and the top ones are for adding boost pressure to the spring pressure, like in using a boost controller. I am not planning on running a boost controller. So I would hook the bottom port to the manifold and plug the rest. Correct? Now while I'm at it, Is there a way to check the wastegate to see where it is set at?
I believe you can find the one he made in the big thread titled rear mount turbo.If I remember right it ended up being about free after he collected all the small parts and really is a great idea for that extra grunt when you need it.
Last edited by Mike-91 Formula 350; Nov 16, 2004 at 09:37 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Here is a picture of the same wastegate hooked up on a car

ive been out of this for so long, Ive got it mixed up in my head..... Sorry for the ignorance guys. I need to get my head back in the game.

ive been out of this for so long, Ive got it mixed up in my head..... Sorry for the ignorance guys. I need to get my head back in the game.
OK, Guido's drawing and the picture he provided match up. Now, one last question. If I am not running a boost controller, I don't need the line going to the top port, correct? I just plug it.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 829
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From: SE PA, USA
Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
I have never used the wastegate in question. I spoke from my experience using other brand wastegates (turbonetics and some dual port internal units). Hook it up the way Guido suggests.
Info on my home-made remote controlled boost controller:
Quote from one of my previous posts:
"Here is a quick diagram of my system. Without restrictor 'A' in place, there was very little boost increase. With only restrictor 'A' in place, there was an overboost condition (>12psi!). Both 'A' and 'B' were needed for my application to allow a low setting of of 5-6psi and high setting of 8-9psi. You could also add an adjustable neddle valve in place of restrictor 'B' to allow for an adjustable high side setting. Also note that the sizes of the restrictors were estimated- they will need to be different sizes for different applications. Fortunately, it is easy to switch out the restrictors to dial it in.
This system works on the low boost setting with no power to the vacuum solenoid (the vacuum solenoid blocks boost pressure flow to the bleed). This allows the boost pressure to maintain the stock WG setting. When you flip the switch in the passenger compartment, the vacuum solenoid opens and bleeds off boost pressure feed to the WG actuator, therefore requiring a higher manifold pressure to open the WG."
I currently have a needle valve installed in place of restrictor 'B'. With the needle valve closed, stage II is the same as stage I because there is no bleed air flow. With the needle valve wide open, there is over 15psi of boost. I just played around with it to have a Stage II boost of 10psi. (I say all that to say you can adjust stage II to what-ever you want by adjusting the sizes of the restrictor orfices)
This controller can be made easily, and can be made to work with just about any WG. I copied off of Turbo XS's two stage boost controller, but my system cost next to nothing compared to the $200 TXS charges!
Info on my home-made remote controlled boost controller:
Quote from one of my previous posts:
"Here is a quick diagram of my system. Without restrictor 'A' in place, there was very little boost increase. With only restrictor 'A' in place, there was an overboost condition (>12psi!). Both 'A' and 'B' were needed for my application to allow a low setting of of 5-6psi and high setting of 8-9psi. You could also add an adjustable neddle valve in place of restrictor 'B' to allow for an adjustable high side setting. Also note that the sizes of the restrictors were estimated- they will need to be different sizes for different applications. Fortunately, it is easy to switch out the restrictors to dial it in.
This system works on the low boost setting with no power to the vacuum solenoid (the vacuum solenoid blocks boost pressure flow to the bleed). This allows the boost pressure to maintain the stock WG setting. When you flip the switch in the passenger compartment, the vacuum solenoid opens and bleeds off boost pressure feed to the WG actuator, therefore requiring a higher manifold pressure to open the WG."
I currently have a needle valve installed in place of restrictor 'B'. With the needle valve closed, stage II is the same as stage I because there is no bleed air flow. With the needle valve wide open, there is over 15psi of boost. I just played around with it to have a Stage II boost of 10psi. (I say all that to say you can adjust stage II to what-ever you want by adjusting the sizes of the restrictor orfices)
This controller can be made easily, and can be made to work with just about any WG. I copied off of Turbo XS's two stage boost controller, but my system cost next to nothing compared to the $200 TXS charges!
Last edited by 89JYturbo; Nov 17, 2004 at 06:29 PM.
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